Deoxit and Pots
- Thread starter Bobd
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
spartanmanor
Lunatic Member
A pot is a knob that turns. You would spray the Deoxit on the contacts of the Knob. (you will need to get to the insides of your stereo) Yes it could cure your problem
ozmoid
Lunatic Member
"pot" is short for potentiometer, usually found in Volume, balance, and tone controls. it is a resistive surface (often baked-on graphite) with a "wiper" or moving blade that contacts it. When you turn the knob, you are moving the wiper across the resistive surface - changing the resistance of the signal.
There is usually an opening on the pot body - you'll need to open up the case and have a look. Just spray a small amount in, and twist the pot back and forth 25-50 times.
DO NOT use the diluted Deoxit solution on a graphite pot! The solvent will loosen the graphite and can cause it to flake off, leaving your pot useless. Make sure to use 100% solution in this application. Read the label! You can get more information on this at the caig products website.
If it is crackling because of corrosion or oxidation of the parts, yes. Follow up with faderlube (another caig product) to protect and lubricate the pot.
How do I know if the SX-680 has graphite pots?
Also I plan to stop off at RadioShack and get the Deoxit. It comes in a kit:
This kit contains both DeoxIT Power Booster and ProGold Connector Enhancer sprays from Caig Laboratories to help improve the performance of your electrical devices.
Is that the stuff I need?
Also I plan to stop off at RadioShack and get the Deoxit. It comes in a kit:
This kit contains both DeoxIT Power Booster and ProGold Connector Enhancer sprays from Caig Laboratories to help improve the performance of your electrical devices.
Is that the stuff I need?
Fred Longworth
audio fanatic
Yup.
Fred
Fred
hakaplan
Needs professional help
Post over in the Pioneer forum--they should know.
If you end up needing the 100% spray it can be ordered directly from the caig.com website.
ozmoid
Lunatic Member
I would assume you have coated surfaces in the pots, most are. Better to use the 100% and be safe. Anything that "clicks" when you turn it is going to be metal-to-metal, and you can use up your 5% there. (Like input selectors.)
drknstrmyknight
Addicted Member
Anyone know what sort of pots were used in:
Scott LK-72
Sherwood S-4400
?
Scott LK-72
Sherwood S-4400
?
D5 is GREAT for electrical contact cleaning, for switches or anything that has metal electrical contacts. The (95%) solvent flushes the non-chemically bound crap out, and gets the D5 (5%) into all the nooks and crannies where the D5 starts loosening up the chemically bound oxidation (sulfation usually, air pollution you know...) to the point that mechanical motion of the contacts wipes or wears off what's left.
BUT
You want to get d100 and faderlube for the pots.
The long term health of the pot is dependent upon it's being lubed, and the D5 is 95 percent solvent that:
1) washes the lube out
2) may dissolve the "glue' that holds the older resistance particles together.
The d100 will treat the commutator contacts that connect the moving wiper to the stationary outside terminal, and the faderlube will flush the loose stuff out that fouls up the wiper and replace the old lube with clean lube.
Wait until you get the right stuff... for the pot's LONG TERM health....
BUT
You want to get d100 and faderlube for the pots.
The long term health of the pot is dependent upon it's being lubed, and the D5 is 95 percent solvent that:
1) washes the lube out
2) may dissolve the "glue' that holds the older resistance particles together.
The d100 will treat the commutator contacts that connect the moving wiper to the stationary outside terminal, and the faderlube will flush the loose stuff out that fouls up the wiper and replace the old lube with clean lube.
Wait until you get the right stuff... for the pot's LONG TERM health....
