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SX-1280 phono switch cleaning

A

adam-ads

Super Member
My phono-1 input is low on the left channel unless I fiddle with the pushbutton. All other controls seem to be fine and I'm reluctant to tear into this unit any further than I need to.

Are there any safe shortcuts to get some deoxit into the phono switch?

p.s. Someday, when I can afford it, I'd like to find a good local tech to do a full recap/clean/align on this receiver.
 
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I deoxit'd a SX-1050 which wasn't the easiest thing (I had to drill a hole into the volume pot to get deoxit into it :eek: ), but not impossible to do. I did all of the pushbuttons on the unit too. It took a few applications of deoxit to solve the problems on my SX-1050. I then finished the job with faderlube. The effort I spent was rewarded by turning a $100 barely functioning SX-1050 into one of my favorite receivers! You can do the job :yes:...of that there is no doubt. If you run into a problem or question, just post it and there will be many good folks here to help you out.
 
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"You can do the job ...of that there is no doubt."

Thanks for the vote of confidence, but I'm really not sure about that.

I've removed the top and bottom covers and the faceplate. It looks like almost every board needs to come out before I can get to the switch body.

Any chance deoxit can be sprayed in from the front of the switch?
 
Take the face plate off and you will see where you can get the straw at. You can even get it between the springs to get the straw right on the access points. I just did mine from looking at photos here on this site. I forget what thread it was but if you search you will probably find the same pics. But, if you do as I say you will see where to shoot the spray, Good luck and your not the first or second to have to do it from the front.
 
I searched quickly for EchoWar's picture he posted, to no avail, so here's a verbal attempt......

To do the AM FM etc pushbutton switches:

With the chassis horizontal (like it usually sits on the shelf) and the front panel removed, poke the straw through the spring on the LOWER half, under the plastic tab. Looking closely with a bright light you will see two little square "holes" where the slider and body of the switch don't quite meet, one on the lower left and one on the lower right.

THESE are your targets, one shot each, about a second apiece or the unit will be dripping. Then work the $%#%$#% out of the individual switch - to speed things up a bit, hold a DIFFERENT switch in the interlocked gang down, and the one you are working will not lock.

On a non- interlocked switch, unfortunately it's back to push on push off...

The LEVER switches are a completely different mechanism, but to deoxit the pots in those modules, they have to be pulled out ( a few screws, ALL the wires STAY connected) anyway, and that will give you access to the contact area which is closest to the printed circuit board.... all the stuff higher up is just the lever mechanism.
 
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The phono switch is much better now but still a bit flaky. I'll probably end up giving them all another shot of spray.

Thanks, everyone!
 
The left channel on my 1080 quit last night. I went to Guitar Center this morning and got Deoxit and Faderlube for $27. Bit of a tedious process to remove all the screws etc to get the faceplate off. Gave the Aux switch a few blasts and worked it like instructed above.

I am blown away as it now works. Maybe it will quit tomorrow but thanks for the pictures and explanations. I am amazed that a couple of spray bottles fixed my receiver. While I'm watching football.
 
It's amazing how many sweet units are dumped in the garbage because of a failure due to dirty switches. My buddy has my old STR-V5 that I sold him years ago. He tossed it in the garage and bought a new stereo because the switches are all scratchy. Now I'm working on getting it back from him cheap. I saw it a few weeks ago, and it's still mint and not being used. I want to build a system for my son, and that will be a good start.
 
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