*¿* KLH Model 20
- Thread starter smogguy
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Thanks, I realize that the amplifier and circuitry are housed beneath the turntable and switches; and oil residue migrating to the other components isn't a great idea. I bought a beater KLH turntable for parts and the switches work a little smoother. I thought that I would ask here before finding someone to repair the problem.
As the owner of a TWENTY having torn it down and rebuilt it.
The 20's switches are buried under the chassis and have a longer than normal switch "arm", causing the slider to cant over and bind. It's inherent in the design of the ones with the slider. Later models had "rocker" switches.
You'll have to open it up from the bottom, and spray them with De-Oxit D-5, cycle them 30-40 times, then Faderlube or Progold. The only thing electrical I use WD-40 on is to De-Water Distributor caps during rainy weather.
If you are competent with metal working, you could open the mounting holes, and install rocker switches, and open the top plate to fit the rockers. The top plate is plastic with a light metal cover. The plastic is brittle and you'll more than likely end up having to epoxy the standoff's.
Larry
The 20's switches are buried under the chassis and have a longer than normal switch "arm", causing the slider to cant over and bind. It's inherent in the design of the ones with the slider. Later models had "rocker" switches.
You'll have to open it up from the bottom, and spray them with De-Oxit D-5, cycle them 30-40 times, then Faderlube or Progold. The only thing electrical I use WD-40 on is to De-Water Distributor caps during rainy weather.
If you are competent with metal working, you could open the mounting holes, and install rocker switches, and open the top plate to fit the rockers. The top plate is plastic with a light metal cover. The plastic is brittle and you'll more than likely end up having to epoxy the standoff's.
Larry
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Thanks Larry and everyone who responded. I'm fairly methodical, patient and good at fixing things, although I haven't done much soldering.
Your description of the switch makes sense and I've been reluctant to play the stereo much since I was afraid of damaging it.
I'm going to start by opening it up from the base and following your instructions using De-Oxit D-5.
Thanks again for everyones input. I look forward to listening to my melted plastic soon.
john
Your description of the switch makes sense and I've been reluctant to play the stereo much since I was afraid of damaging it.
I'm going to start by opening it up from the base and following your instructions using De-Oxit D-5.
Thanks again for everyones input. I look forward to listening to my melted plastic soon.
john
Thanks for posting this. Unfortunately I only read it today after I had the bottom off of the KLH 20 to clean the potentiometers and switches. I used Nu-trol 401B which worked great for everything except those slider switches. I guess I'll pick up Faderlube unless you or someone else has a better suggestion. I realize this post is ancient, but maybe you'll see it!
If you add an @ to his name Iike this, @larryderouin. He will get a notification. That tends to make it much more likely he’ll see it.
Btw, Montesa? As in the motorcycle? I so lusted after a 250 H6 Enduro back in the 70s. Photo nicked from the web.
If not then sorry, and carry on!
Cheers……………………Todd
