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08 Buick lucerne LF speaker out

What will I find

  • head unit connection

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • bad speaker

    Votes: 2 40.0%
  • connection on speaker

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • internal radio

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • other wiring

    Votes: 1 20.0%
  • other

    Votes: 2 40.0%

  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .

NH-MAN

Addicted Member
Parked night before fine, start up next day its out.

Its never gone in or out before so no hint of bad connection.

Banged on dash nope slammed door a few times nope.

still out today

wiiggled wires in door jamb nope

tweeter that side works.

I never crank it and it doesn't get that loud anyway to even want to.

I have to take radio out at some point anyway to check as cd will not eject or play if under 80 deg.

I will take it apart soon just waiting on some new pins (just a little peg with a round ball on the end) for door panel as one or two broke when I replaced the door lock assembly (a year ago). I am also replacing the outer horizontal felt/rubber window trim/seal as its worn and just smears water when window goes up that bug's me while I'm in there checking the speaker/wiring.

called dealer confirmed no ext amp

only 60k on car

buick_lucerne_us9_cd6_radio_20887349.jpg
 
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I voted "other" cause it could be any of the selections. Start with the speaker; remove the door panel, pull the speaker, remove the leads, attach a voltmeter (make sure the leads don't touch each other), turn on the radio and check for a reading on the voltmeter. If zero, it's at the head unit, or the wiring in between. Keep diagnosing from there.
 
I voted "other" cause it could be any of the selections. Start with the speaker; remove the door panel, pull the speaker, remove the leads, attach a voltmeter (make sure the leads don't touch each other), turn on the radio and check for a reading on the voltmeter. If zero, it's at the head unit, or the wiring in between. Keep diagnosing from there.

Yes, I know how to diagnose, just thought it might be a fun question as at the moment I have zero suspicions on what it will end up being for cause. If it was intermittent before is one thing and I might have guesses but shutting it off and turning back on the next day, no idea. It will be interesting to find out what changed just sitting there overnight
 
Got my parts today will be looking at my speaker tomorrow.
i've gotta coax the cd out with another cd when i eject it .

'06 lucerne with less that 30k miles

I took mine out which was super easy as there is not much in there. All screws are same size which was cool. Cd mech comes right out and load eject and such run of the laser drive motor which is 6 volts so could use a small power supply to run the motor. I didn't really find anything wrong with mine and checked every single solder joint and connection which all looked spotless. One ribbon cable to cd clean shiny nice indents in it from connectors so just gave it a swipe with an eraser just cause. wasn't dirty but wiped the laser just in case. there was a little potentiometer on laser I moved it a hair and then back. Put it back together and it is working great :dunno: before it would only work at one magical temperature of 80-85 or more at the deck itself cool it a couple degrees nothing so for last year maybe used it ten times when it was at its magical temp but would only maybe last 5-6 songs until its temp changed again then a wait for a magical day.
 
i've gotta coax the cd out with another cd when i eject it .

'06 lucerne with less that 30k miles

if yours is like mine the mechanism is simple. When you insert a cd you are pushing two arms apart that are connected to a switch. this retracts lase to center and there is a tab on the laser that when retracted pushes a lever that decouples worm drive to laser and couples another set of gears to drive pinch roller. there is a lever at the rear of cd when fully inserted that couples the drive for the the unlock and tilt cd tray up to eject. all can be done on a table with just the cd assembly with a wall wart 5 volts should be plenty on the 6volt motor.

While exercising without a cd in it just remember to push the little arm in the back of the tray so it will engage the rack and pinion gear to unlock and lift tray. if you do not swing this little lever (that a cd would be pushing on if inserted) the rack gear will be 1/4 in or something from its pinion gear and will not engage the tray part . Take a look its really easy.

Also check rubber for pinch roller is still glued to its shaft which I guess is a common problem. the shaft turns but not the rubber sleeve and people just super glue them.
 
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car environments are hard on speakers, there is moisture, extreme heat you know like 120 degrees or cold 0 degrees. check the speaker first then the other things.
factory speakers are cheap to begin with , you can even upgrade if the speakers are ify
 
car environments are hard on speakers, there is moisture, extreme heat you know like 120 degrees or cold 0 degrees. check the speaker first then the other things.
factory speakers are cheap to begin with , you can even upgrade if the speakers are ify

Thanks for reminding me, it was the speaker. It was actually a nice little driver, it had some really nice big tinsel leads but rather join voice coil at its usual place the leads landed at the voice coil at 4 and 8 o'clock then they were very well glued right at the voice coil to spider joint up to 11 and one o'clock where the voice coil connection was made. You cannot see connection as I think it's between spider and voice coil. knocked magnet off and voice coil and leads out were great and as I said all the glue joints were perfect and sealed. It was really surprising it failed considering how secure it all looked. It's still really weird it lost connection overnight just sitting there. It must have been a temperature change thing that just didn't reverse itself as it was never intermittent or anything prior. A new speaker at dealer was 47 but I buy stuff from them, so I got it for 35 and put it in today.

Happy to report my CD player is still working great.
 
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