It's been a while since I worked on a Marantz. Just fished this mid-1970s Marantz 1070. I own a 1060 and it's been restored as well. The 1060 is warmer, more tube-like. The 1070 is very clinical, very clear and such a wide dynamic range. The highs are very high and bass very low.
Replaced the main filter caps with Cornell Dubilier Knowles SLPX 15,000uF and all the other electrolytic caps - audio path mainly Nichicon UFG and Panasonic FC/FR for power. A few WIMAs in there (1uF and 3.3uF).
Changed almost all of the transistors with mainly KSC1845 and KSA992. hFe matched where differential pairs of course. There were two instances of using KSC2383 (one in the PS and one on the amp board). Output transistors left as is, just put on fresh thermal paste. I did swap a few higher ohm resistors on the phono and tone boards for metal film to lower the noise floor (one was actually out of spec). Faraday tape over shields for extra RF shielding, lubed, calibrated, DeOx'd.
Tried the new relay c/o the "milky white" SCHRACK from eBay and it did not work. Instead, I used a heavy duty OMRON LY2-0-DC24 secured in the space where the longer main filter caps were with wires running to the amp board. Left the two Sanyo metal can transistors in (H707/708) in place as is (for now). Also left the H721-724 as is. Left all the big brown film caps in. Didn't change any of the diodes, but perhaps I should have?
Left the original trim pots as this unit was in immaculate condition.
Sounds incredible!
Replaced the main filter caps with Cornell Dubilier Knowles SLPX 15,000uF and all the other electrolytic caps - audio path mainly Nichicon UFG and Panasonic FC/FR for power. A few WIMAs in there (1uF and 3.3uF).
Changed almost all of the transistors with mainly KSC1845 and KSA992. hFe matched where differential pairs of course. There were two instances of using KSC2383 (one in the PS and one on the amp board). Output transistors left as is, just put on fresh thermal paste. I did swap a few higher ohm resistors on the phono and tone boards for metal film to lower the noise floor (one was actually out of spec). Faraday tape over shields for extra RF shielding, lubed, calibrated, DeOx'd.
Tried the new relay c/o the "milky white" SCHRACK from eBay and it did not work. Instead, I used a heavy duty OMRON LY2-0-DC24 secured in the space where the longer main filter caps were with wires running to the amp board. Left the two Sanyo metal can transistors in (H707/708) in place as is (for now). Also left the H721-724 as is. Left all the big brown film caps in. Didn't change any of the diodes, but perhaps I should have?
Left the original trim pots as this unit was in immaculate condition.
Sounds incredible!