• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

1963 Fisher A-68

First of all, that is a beautiful amplifier. The amplifier portion is, if you were to disassemble the unit, where the action is, so to speak. In other words, the amplifier part is what people want and what people usually gut such consoles for if they have to.

I will say however that if I were you, and I couldn't keep the whole console, I would pull the amp and rebuild it or take it to a tech and then keep it and use it and love it. That IS a better and more desirable amp, one that people usually hope to find and never do lol.

Again, I would personally keep the amp and have it repaired, rather than sell it. Because it IS BETTER than what solid state amps you have now lol ;)

Loomis
 
Ok, you people are evil, tempting me to spend money on such old and archaic things :scratch2:

Does anyone know the wattage on that amp (or point me to a link)? I've not been able to find specs on it anywhere.
 
It's about 30 WPC. That's tube amps now.

Narodow recapped mine, made modes for bias adjustments, upgraded binding posts, put timer delay to save tube life...

I'm listening to it right now with a NAD preamp. Audio bliss :yes: Sounds incredible with my Dynaco A25, JBL L36, and EPI 202 speakers. As long as you are not trying to drive demanding speakers that's more than enough WPC.

And don't beleive anyone who says tube amps aren't good with bass. :no:
 
Hey grinder, a simple check to see if the amplifier is working, is to unplug those two RCA jacks that go into the amplifier itself, and plug in another CD player or tape deck. Mind you that if the amplifier works trying this method, there will be no volume control as it is all done with the preamp/tuner portion of the console itself. At least this will help narrow it down if it's the amplifier or the tuner/preamp.

Another method to see if the amplifier is working, is to put your hand about a half an inch above the 7591 tubes after it has been on for about three minutes. If it's radiating a good amount of heat, that means it's getting the B+ voltage and plate current. If the B+ current is non-existent, the 7591 tubes will be warm to the touch even after being on for 5 minutes.

You said you didn't have the time to go in depth, so these are just some simple quick checks.

I know, and a lot of other people here know also, that that console is, or could be, a simple fix. It could also be something as simple as the speakers not being connected properly! Good luck and have some fun with it before you decide to get rid of it!
 
Last edited:
Man, if only you weren't several hundred miles away. I bet that is a lovely console. If you do decide on a price for parts PM me.

mike
 
loomis said:
First of all, that is a beautiful amplifier. The amplifier portion is, if you were to disassemble the unit, where the action is, so to speak. In other words, the amplifier part is what people want and what people usually gut such consoles for if they have to.
Click to expand...

Normally, I would agree...but a Fisher tuner/preamp, even in console configuration, I would expect to have some value. Worst case scenario, it wouldn't be that hard to rig a separate power supply for the tuner/preamp head.

If I was in anything resembling a reasonable driving distance, I would have already PMed Mr. Grinder.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom