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1963 Juke Box resto.

Got the service Manuel today, the select light stays on , makes wrong selections mostly on right side, the pre set solenoid is missing , cost 96 dollars for a new one. Not sure if they burned it up or if it just went bad or was taken for another juke box, the wires were cut . If the solenoid does not work the select light stays on. P/N 60717. Plays side B but not side A the way it is, I could just turn the records around and play side A only on B and it would work. Only 50 selections though.
 
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Might be able to rewind the coil, if it's a small one.

Try tripping selections manually and seeing if the mech can physically play both sides. That'll narrow it down a bit...
 
I ordered two 5 mm and two10 mm solenoids, (for the pre set solenoid) , it was missing so a rewind was not possible, sence 1/4 inch is in between 5 and 10 mm one of them should work there, not sure how far it has to move with nothing in there, but they did leave me the linkage rod at least. I found two wires cut in the key box from the change box - a red and orange wire, they were spliced into the free play switch, the solenoid they went to is not activating with the wires hooked back up but it works if you push it in by hand, another solenoid in the key box releases it - that one works. The ground sw on the change box sticks but it works sometimes, the plastic lever rod is not removable so its hard to clean it, but maybe some really light oil can fix it. The manual has a lousey troubleshooting section - all 8 pages are a waste of paper and ink ! , It took me hours of studying the SKU to make any sence out of the Manuel. Very Complicated is certainly an understatement. Unless you work on these everyday the manual is just about worthless ! .
 
Gary Mattis said:
I put e caps there because it said MFD and both went to ground on the pre amp board ? , and they are working , I ordered a hard copy service Manuel last night for it , one that comes with a SKU. The line on those caps went to ground, how can I tell other then waiting for the SKU ? Will e caps hurt anything there if they were non polar ?
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Sorry I missed your post for awhile.

MFD or any other way of showing the capacitance has nothing to do with polarity as far as I know. Granted anything over a few uf in that era was probably electrolytic. But any electrolytic should have a "+" and/or "-" end marked.

The schematic (presumably there is one in the service manual) should show whether a cap is electrolytic. There will be a + next to one side on the drawing.

If it works OK, you probably got the polarity right.
 
toxcrusadr said:
Sorry I missed your post for awhile.

MFD or any other way of showing the capacitance has nothing to do with polarity as far as I know. Granted anything over a few uf in that era was probably electrolytic. But any electrolytic should have a "+" and/or "-" end marked.

The schematic (presumably there is one in the service manual) should show whether a cap is electrolytic. There will be a + next to one side on the drawing.

If it works OK, you probably got the polarity right.
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They have polarity according to the SKU , I have them in right. C-28 is the only non polar cap in the amp, the 2 are C-23 A and B.
 
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