1985 Sony CDP-302 Tray Problem Repair
- Thread starter Gary Indiana
- Start date
Rob.
Super Member
Update:
After sending it to my local service shop, they were able to repair my cdp-302.
It needed some resistors replaced and they changed the belts as well.
Cost me $80.00 though, 3 month warranty.
I'm pretty sure after all the years of lightning strikes, it could have fried some parts of the unit. Maybe that is why it stopped working.
Sounds great and tracks awesome !
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzwqpFfYlLM
After sending it to my local service shop, they were able to repair my cdp-302.
It needed some resistors replaced and they changed the belts as well.
Cost me $80.00 though, 3 month warranty.
I'm pretty sure after all the years of lightning strikes, it could have fried some parts of the unit. Maybe that is why it stopped working.
Sounds great and tracks awesome !
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzwqpFfYlLM
I am happy to report after following the nicely illustrated instructions here (substituting sewing machine oil for....gasp....mineral oil.....) my 302 is working just fine!
I remember Dr Audio telling me that few cdp's have dead lasers, that most have other issues.
This has repaired the issue I was having, which was random jumps all over the place. The transport, after removing bottom plate, was very notchy when I was trying to slide it back and forth. A thorough cleaning with isopropyl alcohol, and a lube, and it is slick as butter.
Thank you to the OP, thanks Dr Audio (again, you had previously saved my Yamaha CDX1100u) and thanks to AK.
Not the best sounding cdp, but build quality is amazing. Would love to know how to change out those mylars, and do some tweaks. Such a nice looking player.
I remember Dr Audio telling me that few cdp's have dead lasers, that most have other issues.
This has repaired the issue I was having, which was random jumps all over the place. The transport, after removing bottom plate, was very notchy when I was trying to slide it back and forth. A thorough cleaning with isopropyl alcohol, and a lube, and it is slick as butter.
Thank you to the OP, thanks Dr Audio (again, you had previously saved my Yamaha CDX1100u) and thanks to AK.
Not the best sounding cdp, but build quality is amazing. Would love to know how to change out those mylars, and do some tweaks. Such a nice looking player.
Since I thread resurrected, a question.
Is there a bulb behind that green trim ring around the power switch?? Mine isn't illuminated, wasn't sure it was even supposed to be.
Is there a bulb behind that green trim ring around the power switch?? Mine isn't illuminated, wasn't sure it was even supposed to be.
Electone
Well-Known Member
I believe there is a green led back there, but I could be thinking of my SL-P555...
Pilot, could you expound on the upgrades you did to yours? And since I have other cdp's who do the out and back in thing, could you possibly point me in the direction of those tray sensor switches?? Thanks so much.
Binkman
Lunatic Member
usually end of travel in switches for on off eject. a lot of similar designs suggesting good otherwise. logic chips? not usually needed unless in the main cpu. mechanically these units can be tossed around and and sometime get the sensors back in line as chassis can be twisted if an oaf dropped one on your desk from a few inches.
Thanks, Binkman. I've experienced this in an older TEAC from the radio station where I worked, and now with a Pioneer DVD player from 1999. Hoping to repair.
On a hot streak since I fixed the 302, lol.
On a hot streak since I fixed the 302, lol.
The tray sensors are on a little green board on a bracket at the rear of the tray. Remove the bracket - there's one screw holding it - and remove the screws holding the switches. You need to unsolder them from the board. Then you can snap them apart. I cleaned the silver parts with Silver Dip and lubed them with Electrolube (dunno if it's still available). The attached files contain the mods I made.
Splendid, thank you so much!
Glad to be of help. Those were the simple mods. I added others such as a pair of servos to eliminate the output coupling caps. Also added a separate stabilised power supply with its own transformer for all the motors since they ran off an unstabilised supply. Rather cheap of Sony to do that but I suppose they were trying to keep the price down.
I used your generalized method of fixing those sensors, and was able to repair a Pioneer dvd player I had been futzing with. Thanks again.
Your mods are far beyond my humble abilities, but thanks for sharing. I love this cd player, but honestly, it's pretty dry. Wish I had your technical prowess.
I'll hit up an Ace hardware and grab some of those. Thanks, Pilot!
Have you listened to the thing??
I ask as those were pretty shrill /brittle sounding gizmos.
Pretty well the epitome of what people complained loudly about with CD audio.
Machine build quality was great.. Sounds simply were not.
Frankly a Cheap 50$ DVD player will /can sound more pleasing than even the Fabled ES series of Sony gizmos.
Best do a bit of research before buying,
this is One instance where Vintage isn't the best possible choice.
I ask as those were pretty shrill /brittle sounding gizmos.
Pretty well the epitome of what people complained loudly about with CD audio.
Machine build quality was great.. Sounds simply were not.
Frankly a Cheap 50$ DVD player will /can sound more pleasing than even the Fabled ES series of Sony gizmos.
Best do a bit of research before buying,
this is One instance where Vintage isn't the best possible choice.
Sorry, don't have a source for tray belts. My local source just stopped stocking them and I haven't found a new one. Luckily I had just one belt when I needed it.
As to the shrill sound of the CDP302, mine never sounded like that. And it wasn't the ES version though there wasn't much difference. It was very flat sounding - no depth at all. Replacing the caps in the reconstruction filter made all the difference. No contest between polystyrene and mylar in this application. The sound at the higher frequencies wasn't quite up to the mark and changing the chips fixed that. The sound was still a little edgy and using tantalum beads to decouple the op amps cured that. Now it's as good as any CD player you care to name and the transport has never been bettered.
So like many audio devices, a good design was spoilt by cutting corners to keep the price down. Can't blame the engineers - it's the bean counters that are at fault.
As to the shrill sound of the CDP302, mine never sounded like that. And it wasn't the ES version though there wasn't much difference. It was very flat sounding - no depth at all. Replacing the caps in the reconstruction filter made all the difference. No contest between polystyrene and mylar in this application. The sound at the higher frequencies wasn't quite up to the mark and changing the chips fixed that. The sound was still a little edgy and using tantalum beads to decouple the op amps cured that. Now it's as good as any CD player you care to name and the transport has never been bettered.
So like many audio devices, a good design was spoilt by cutting corners to keep the price down. Can't blame the engineers - it's the bean counters that are at fault.
And this is one instance where we are squeezing the best out of what we already have.
As usual, you post some true statements, with a heap of threadcrap added for good measure.
I got mine for free, many here already had them. With that said, I agree with you, the sound isn't for me, I just think it is pretty to see in action. If I had Pilot's skill, I'd certainly mod it.
We're just tinkering around here, Bare. Your solid advice is appreciated, tho the manner in which you deliver it could use some work.
SoCal Sam
Lunatic Member
Add "to my ears" and you can opine anything. To infer based on your own experience is a common error.