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220v or 240v

Sergey Green

Active Member
Here in Europe we have average 230v per socket. My Marantz receivers (European versions) can be set to either 110v, 120v, 220v, or 240v. My question is, which should I set it to; 220v or 240v, or does it make any difference at all?

thanks in advance.
 
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In the USA we have nominally 120V, but it is not uncommon to be a little more or little less. I suggest checking the actual voltage during the normal time you will be using the unit and set the switch accordingly. In case checking the voltage is not practical, I suggest the 240V setting.
 
But it does not affect the tone in any way, does it? I mean, did you observe any difference?
I am in EU, we have 230VAC theoretically, but I measured and it showed me 240VAC even 244V if I remember well, but I would set to 240V anyway even if it showed 230V. This is recommended by most.
I think it's great that those old amps have 240V as option as it was 220V in mains in the 1970s in most European countries, well at least in the 2 I lived in.
I heard it may affect output wattage and can be perceivable if you have 230 in mains and you choose between 220 and 240. But it will maybe steal say 1W of output and so what when you set to 240V and it will add 1W extra when you set to 220V but possibly at some cost to stability of your unit.
 
So in the US , the standard is to be +/- 10% of the provided voltage. So.... 132 or 108 for 120. 264 or 216 for 240....

Marantz usually designed the unit to function correctly on +/- 10% .... I say usually cause I can't think of an example that is outside that...but I am not 100% aware of all units.... So your mileage may vary... Check the owners manual.

So +10% of 220v is 242V. +10% of 230v is 253V.... Can you end up 11v over the range Manatz design for? Yes...

What does higher AC line power mean?

Higher DC rail voltage....

That can have implications on cap voltage ratings....

Create higher output transistor bias ....

Remember that when you adjust output bias, you need to make sure the AC line voltage is at the rated voltage.

Play this game very carefully.

Over voltage can damage a unit....

Under voltage will cause the amp to sound dull and cause the bias to be low...

I would rather use a step down transformer or a power regenerator.

Clean consistent AC voltage is critical....for consistent play back.

Johnk
 
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So in the US , the standard is to be +/- 10% of the provided voltage. So.... 132 or 108 for 120. 264 or 216 for 240....

Marantz usually designed the unit to function correctly on +/- 10% .... I say usually cause I can't think of an example that is outside that...but I am not 100% aware of all units.... So your mileage may vary... Check the owners manual.

So +10% of 220v is 242V. +10% of 230v is 253V.... Can you end up 11v over the range Manatz design for? Yes...

What does higher AC line power mean?

Higher DC rail voltage....

That can have implications on cap voltage ratings....

Create higher output transistor bias ....

Remember that when you adjust output bias, you need to make sure the AC line voltage is at the rated voltage.

Play this game very carefully.

Over voltage can damage a unit....

Under voltage will cause the amp to sound dull and cause the bias to be low...

I would rather use a step down transformer or a power regenerator.

Clean consistent AC voltage is critical....for consistent play back.

Johnk

This makes sense, thank you. It was on 240v so I will leave it as is.

-s
 
My home & neighborhood for years were having low voltage issues in summer . Which drove me nuts.

Power grid was in need of an upgrade . Voltage would drop to 100. Which would affect a lot of things , including the stereo. The system would sound best late at night when the voltage would come back up to a reasonable level.

I checked my house wiring no issue... Complained to power company... Had the neighbors complain too... I even added solar to the house.... The solar helped some, but only added 3vs. ( reduced my power bill :) ) The power company finally upgrade the whole grid in central New Jersey and added a second transformer to my block. All that fixed the issue. Rock steady 120Vs.

Huge grid rebuild was needed due to population and power consumption that has sky rocketed...

In the meantime I studied a lot on power and affect on gear like ours....

It is shocking how much noise is on the AC from all the junky electronics with cheap power supplies, dimmer switches and on & on...

I ended up using a power regenerator, filters and running my model 500 on 240Vs. Which all made a huge difference for my rig. What this did was lower the noise floor to nearly 100% gone....

On my main system 7t, model 500, ohm Fs ... You can turn the volume all the way with nothing playing... And you hear nothing out of the speakers even standing right next to them with you ear close to them....

Point is that good clean power is very important. It's like trying to talk to someone in a noisy bar vs a quiet room.... Which can you hear more details ....

I would consider a properly sized step down isolation transformer so that you can run spot on 220v and you might have other 220v gear. They provide some degree of noise filtering. Then a decent line filter will reduce it further. Cheap 25$ surge protector power strips do nothing....

But I am huge power nerd as you can tell.... :D

Johnk
 
Under voltage will cause the amp to sound dull and cause the bias to be low..

I think in real world conditions 220 or 240 settings wouldn't sonically matter much.
I like the higher setting idea.
The unit sees lower voltages (cooler, more reliable).
If you have bad low voltage issues , you can get a CVT (constant voltage transformer)
They are kind of costly.
 
I think in real world conditions 220 or 240 settings wouldn't sonically matter much.
I like the higher setting idea.
The unit sees lower voltages (cooler, more reliable).
If you have bad low voltage issues , you can get a CVT (constant voltage transformer)
They are kind of costly.

People have lived with this issue for years.... "Gee why does my System Sound great one Day and like crap another day...."

All this said.... I never lived with 230V.... Just in part of New Jersey that had bad power for some time..... and that drove me nuts....

The country in questions 50 Hz , yes? So that degrades the power supply even more..... that is 16% less time for the Main Filters to be Charged.... More time for the Rail Voltage to Sag...

A bit too problematic for my totally Nerdy Audio Brain. Me? I would just get a correctly sized step down transformer or a proper regulator ( NOT A CVT )... Take the 230 to 220, set the amp for 220 and set the bias after verifying where the AC is normally. Or at least run in a steady 230V.

Build my own step down if I had too... Might even try a old PS Audio PPP 230V version...NOT CHEAP WHEN NEW. They had an adjustment adjustment pot that you could lower/raise the output some. It is a true regulator. Least I would never see the worst case of 253Vs going to my 220V gear designed for a max of 242..... The regulator will keep it in the set range, but regulators have limits too.

Or a cheap ADP or Furman for 230.... They are not the greatest regulators, but at least they will try to prevent your gear from seeing 253Vs.... they will try to keep it at around 230ish.

I bought a NEW IN BOX ADP 120V audio grade Regulator for 100$.... for my Home theater LOVE IT FOR THAT PRICE.... I have a PS Audion PPP for the main system.

DON"T USE COMPUTER GRADE UPS stuff.... they usually output Square waves.... VERY Bad for audio.....

So think of it this way....

Your Unit is set up to run 240v....

The Bias was set on a day that the 240V was at/near its peak but still within spec by a Tech that did not check his AC Line voltage at the time..... 264V which is 10% high.

You are now running your unit in a country with 230 voltage standard and the power company is having a bad Summer day.... so its 207 but still in spec.....

Your unit was Bias adjusted with a line voltage of 264V but is now running on 207Vs .... My bet you will surely hear it....

That is a 57V voltage swing.... or 22% difference. Your DC rails will drop by that 22% which absolutely affect the Bias-ing of the outputs. And the Tonal quality....

These units were not design to operate on power that is 22% low.

Even if the unit was biased at 240 and is now on 207 cause a bad summer day... that is -14% and is out of spec ...

Sure you can get by. Sure it will work.... But your mileage WILL vary and will leave you scratching you head ... "why does this sound great some days or Nights...and like crap other days?"

If I was in a country with 230....and did not get/build a step down or regulator. I would Set the BIAS while the amp was set up for 240v and the Wall Voltage was at a known Average for your area, hopefully 230V.

To me that is the best no Cost solution I would try.... That way on high voltage days you are not risking the CAPs with too much rail voltage and yet have a good Bias setting.... SURE THIS HAS BEEN DONE THOUSANDS OF TIMES BY PEOPLE IN 230V countries.....


But I would label the Vintage Gear as being "Biased was Set for 240V Mains but plugged into 230V". So that when it is plugged back into the correct 240 voltage the BIAS should be reset.

By the way, you should never use a CVT transformer on Diode/Rectifier based power supply Like in Audio gear.... CVTs are designed to work best with Resistive loads, like heaters or incandescent lighting or some motors. They will not regulate properly with a Vintage stereo. They actual lower the voltage and create noise in response to the brief load created by the Diodes turning on for a short period of time. The Diodes in our Power supply only turn on for a brief period of the Sine wave at the Peak....which the CVTs don't like. Additionally they tend to put a Square wave.... which has a very different NOISY frequency content than a clean Sine wave....Which equates to more noise....

By the way, I tested a CVT with an amp.... It actual caused the amps transformer to buzz.... Not good....

A CVT is very different than a Buck/Boost Transformer/regulator like the cheap ADP Audio regulators.... those are some what ok.... but not designed to take 230 and make it 220.... But might work if you can find a 220V version....

Than you have the Monster Voltage Stabilizer they sold years ago.... Or a Variac .... but why?

Gee.... Glad I don't have to worry about this and especially with tube gear too.... Heater voltages being lower in addition to bias settings.... The 240/120 we have was crapy enough times.

WAY TOO MUCH INFO BUT WHAT THE HECK, I GOT THE FLU TODAY.....
 
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Flu does this to me.... :D

Can't believe how many people are getting hit with it on the east coast....
 
I think it's time for another "Wow...".
For real! I'm lost. I have a Marantz 2216, 6300 and hd440's and just looking for good protection here in San Diego. This info about clean power is fascinating, but loses me.
A regulator? News to me.
 
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