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2215 Bridge Rectifier Help, Please

spark1

spark1

Lunatic Member
Banned
I am working on a 2215 with a bad bridge rectifier (5B2), among other problems.

While overkill, I am thinking that I could use this one from Mouser:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS/LDhWhDI65ns72KtefK1nEU=

I like it because I think I can mount it using one of the existing screw holes. Does anyone see any issues with using this in the 2215, or have a better solution that will not require fabrication or modification to mount it?

Thanks very much.
 
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MarantzRefrb said:
There are NOS 5B2 diodes on eBay right now, I almost bought one two nights ago.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply.

I should have mentioned that I saw those, but was hoping to get something at a more reasonable price. In the scheme of things, $17 is not that big a deal, but seems egregious if I can use a $3 part with same results. I am doing a full rebuild of this unit, and costs are starting to add up quickly given some of the other things that need to be done to it.
 
I understand, my 2215 has been the longest and most expensive restoration out of a 2230, 2235, 2245 and a 2275; might as well throw in a 6300, and a 5030b too. I was under the impression a 2215 would be the easiest to work on and least expensive to restore, that has not been my experience to date. https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/marantz-2215-restoration.927667/

I will go with the NOS 5B2, if necessary in my case though.

EDIT: What is the symptom that requires the replacement of your 5B2?
 
Apparently someone removed it, probably to test it out of circuit. When it was reinstalled, they cracked the case and one of the mounting flanges (hard to imagine tightening it with that much force).

Interestingly it appears to be working as it should, in circuit. This unit has an extreme amount of noise and static in both channels, nearly overwhelming the signal. I've never seen this particular problem before, and still have to find the underlying cause, but will be rebuilding the power supply anyway...so wanted to replace the rectifier while I am at it, given its cracked case.
 
I was wondering how a 5B2 could go bad, I get it now.

I had a mysterious left channel problem on my 2215, even after all new caps and transistors it still had the problem, turns out that P700 ground strap and where it connects to the chassis, had oxidation built up, and the screw wasn't tight enough, solved it finally for me. These 2215's are more difficult IMO, because they don't have a Pre-out/Main In, to quickly asses the issue.
 
This unit apparently sat in a high humidity environment for a long time, so I will have to address corrosion at grounding links, I'm sure.

Also plan to strip its metal case and have it painted at a friend's body shop...I don't like the cheesy woodgrain vinyl, and it is lifting at the edges and around some of the vent slots.

Yes, the problem with restoring lower powered units like this is that the cost of parts and the time required is nearly the same as for a higher-powered/more valuable model. But the owner, an acquaintance of mine, has a sentimental attachment to it. I am trying to keep costs down while still doing a very thorough job.
 
spark1 said:
This unit apparently sat in a high humidity environment for a long time, so I will have to address corrosion at grounding links, I'm sure.

Also plan to strip its metal case and have it painted at a friend's body shop...I don't like the cheesy woodgrain vinyl, and it is lifting at the edges and around some of the vent slots.

Yes, the problem with restoring lower powered units like this is that the cost of parts and the time required is nearly the same as for a higher-powered/more valuable model. But the owner, an acquaintance of mine, has a sentimental attachment to it. I am trying to keep costs down while still doing a very thorough job.
Click to expand...
I have stripped and powder coated a 2245 case. Removal of the vinyl was tough. Tried heat gun and no go. Finally used that thick, potent type of paint stripper, and it worked. It had to set a little longer than for paint, but it did bubble up and strip off easily with lots of goop and a few minutes to work. The black faceplate and satin black powder coating look amazing.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/finally-finished-black-2245.862281/
 
If any of you are still watching this thread, I was hoping you could provide suggestions for transistor replacements on the Power Amp board. They are:

2SC945 (Q,R)
2SC853 (M,L)
2SA562 (O)
2SC371 (O)

The only one I can find a modern, available replacement for is the 2SC945 (using KSC-2383OTA). Sure would appreciate the help. I'll start a new thread if need be....just thought I would give this a shot first. Thanks!
 
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