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2216 filter cap replacement

Tucker99

Tucker99

Super Member
Successfully replacing the filter caps in the 2215 I cheerfully got busy on one of the 2216s that I purchased in the same bundle.

Cleaned and lube'd the first of them .... now it is making music but with a buzz on both channels. Thought that I would start by replacing the filter caps only to discover that the 2216 seems, for me at least, more difficult a job than the 2215 was.

My issues are two-fold: a) the large gray 4700 uf cap referrer to having a 'dummy lug' ....does this mean that there are three pins holding it in place as I cannot get the cap to move, a b) [which might in part be affecting the cap removal] the cap wires are bent through the hole in the circuit board and my soldering iron is struggling to heat the wire sufficiently to pull the cap out. Is this my total lack of experience or is all the heat from the iron just being sucked into the cap? Is there some obvious trick to getting these big old caps off the board?

I note that the two smaller 2200 uf filter caps don't appear to have a dummy lug, assuming that the main cap needs to have that third pin addressed.

Thanks

John
 
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Additional mount lug is a very good possibility..Sometimes its nessecary to use a larger soldering pencil or (gun) to effectively remove components from those large solder pads...Your caps may also have dried up glue holding them in place as well.
 
Avionic....

Thanks again! The large cap did have both a third lug and a lot of old glue. Ultimately, after working on the third lug and some poking, prodding and wiggling it quit hanging on. Have the large cap replaced and will work on the two smaller filter caps tomorrow and see where we are at.

Keep you posted!
 
So, my tweeking of my Marantz sandwich is complete!

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=146950&highlight=

No so major compared to the experts here but this was my first effort at re-capping so I am pleased with the outcomes. The 2215 and one of the 2216 have had the three large filter caps replaced and the second 2216 just needed a good clean of the pots and switches.

One remaining issue on one of the 2216 is a noticeable 'crackle' and power up and down .... what might that be related to? The audio is just fine while the unit is playing....

I think I paid about $100 for the three of them in a bundle when I bought them so $$-wise I'm OK.

Now just what to do with them.... probably gift the 2 x 2216 and keep the Champagne Face 2215 for a while....nice little unit and that bit scarcer than the regular variety.

To all who pitched in with valuable advices on the 2215 and the 2216 threads ...Thanks again!
 
Tucker99 said:
One remaining issue on one of the 2216 is a noticeable 'crackle' and power up and down .... what might that be related to? The audio is just fine while the unit is playing....
Click to expand...

Blatant bump....looking for any feedback on the power 'up-down' crackle problem. Does the whole amp board need to be re-capped?

Thanks
 
Check you DC offset..Solder connection,capacitor,arcing power switch,relay contacts(if applicable) as you see It could be quite a few things..
 
Avionic....

Quick to the rescue, as always! Must be your military training ! !

I have a multi-meter and I guess this is as good a time as any to un-package it and learn how to use it! I will start with the DC offset.

Thank you, thank you.
 
I just guessing here but the 2216 uses a muting circuit on start up not a relay , if this is so you might have a cap leaking or a resistor off value in this circuit .
Will it crakle with the volume all the way down ? If so look in the power supply or at the switch itself . The switch should have a cap on it , look the solder joints over and reflow them if suspected .



Barney
 
Oerets said:
The switch should have a cap on it
Click to expand...

Oerets,

Checked with the volume all the way down and, yes, it still pops/crackles on power on and off.... suggestive of a main power board cap issue? Only six smaller caps on that board as I have already done the main cap.

The power switch has a small rectangular plastic box looking thing attached to it....is that a capacitor? I have been trying unsuccessfully to loosen the screws that secure the switch to play with it.
 
Tucker99 said:
Oerets,

Checked with the volume all the way down and, yes, it still pops/crackles on power on and off.... suggestive of a main power board cap issue? Only six smaller caps on that board as I have already done the main cap.

The power switch has a small rectangular plastic box looking thing attached to it....is that a capacitor? I have been trying unsuccessfully to loosen the screws that secure the switch to play with it.
Click to expand...

Capacitively coupled units will always make a discharging sound on power down, and hum on power up. A full re-cap on my 2215b brought the noises down to a tolerable level.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=155960

I think the best practice with ANY receiver (cap coupled, or relayed) is to make sure the speakers are NOT selected when powering up/down. You will get no nasty noises, and its just good practice as you never know how loud you left it the night before, or how much your kids twiddled with the volume knob.
 
secondslc...

On my other Marantz units I only get a small 'click'.

Did you do both the main power board and the pre-amp board? Would you start with the main board first...?
 
Tucker99 said:
secondslc...

On my other Marantz units I only get a small 'click'.

Did you do both the main power board and the pre-amp board? Would you start with the main board first...?
Click to expand...

Your other marantz units have relays, they will only click. I still de-select the speakers on power up/down, just a good habit to get into as it engages and dis-engages the relays at the proper voltages.

My 2215b was an easy re-cap job so i did everything at once. Im sorry i cant tell you what helped.
 
Tucker99 said:
secondslc...

On my other Marantz units I only get a small 'click'.
Click to expand...

Secondslc...

Just FYI, yes the larger Marantz have the relay. I was comparing this troublesome 2216 with my 2215 and other 2216, neither of which models have the relay. The loud noise that I get on power up is not normal so I'm going to have a bash at a more thorough re-cap. Hey, it helped yours, and the cost is small.

I doubt that I can get to that for a week or so but I'll keep you all posted on how it works out.

Cheers
 
The power switch has a small rectangular plastic box looking thing attached to it....is that a capacitor
Click to expand...
Actually a resistor and a capacitor in series , a emi filter basically.
 
Avionic....

What I am wondering is if I should be starting with the power board re-cap or if the likelihood is that 'resistor-cap' box or if we just can't tell when we diagnose this way.

I have already purchased the caps for the power board so I am happy to start there but if we kinds know that the switch box is more likely the problem then I won't start with the power board....

All further thoughts welcome !

Cheers
 
avionic said:
Actually a resistor and a capacitor in series , a emi filter basically.
Click to expand...

...and arc suppressor. http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Pr...-ELECTRONICS_ACTIVES-AND-PASSIVES_8527500.PDF
Wouldn't hurt to replace it. I don't know about the 2216, but the 2226 I just restored has a small board on the underside, near the connections for the main filter caps. The circuit on that board is the start-up/shutdown noise suppressor. If your unit has that board, recap it. If not, then the suppression circuit is likely on the amp board. AFAIK, all of the non-relay protected Marantz 22XX have some kind of thump reduction circuit.
You do have the service manual, right?
 
Tucker99 said:
Avionic....

What I am wondering is if I should be starting with the power board re-cap or if the likelihood is that 'resistor-cap' box or if we just can't tell when we diagnose this way.

I have already purchased the caps for the power board so I am happy to start there but if we kinds know that the switch box is more likely the problem then I won't start with the power board....

All further thoughts welcome !

Cheers
Click to expand...

If the power filter caps are not acting properly, it could be preventing resistor-cap box from doing its job. It's designed to suppress noise that a fully functional receiver will put out as the capacitors discharge.

Start with the power board, the only thing you have to lose is time, and you will gain 30 more years on that section's lifespan.
 
Secondslc....,

I have already done the 'big' cap and purchased the 'smaller' caps so you are quite right about just get on with the power board.

Insofar as improperly functioning power caps will impair the noise suppression resistor-cap box from working properly on capacitor discharge (which would be on power 'off'?), does the same logic apply to power 'on'? I am getting the same noise on both.
 
Tucker99 said:
Secondslc....,

I have already done the 'big' cap and purchased the 'smaller' caps so you are quite right about just get on with the power board.

Insofar as improperly functioning power caps will impair the noise suppression resistor-cap box from working properly on capacitor discharge (which would be on power 'off'?), does the same logic apply to power 'on'? I am getting the same noise on both.
Click to expand...

Maybe as the caps should be absorbing some of the in-rush current when you hit the power switch. Do you get the music fading at all when you power down with a source connected? Mine fade out instead of making any weird pops.
 
I have re-capped the power board and my popping on start-up is still there. Therefore I am concluding that I have narrowed my noise problem to the noise suppression cap that goes across the on/off switch. When I visited my local electronics supply shop they advised that they could order a 'noise suppression cap' with close specs for about $10 and 2 weeks waiting time to bring it in. They suggested that I just mod in a resistor and a 0.1 uf 250VAC cap in series. This cap goes across the on/off switch on the 2216.

My question here is 'can this be done?' or is there a reason why an actual 'noise suppression cap' should be purchased?
 
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