2230's C753

[bibota]

A good illustration of the weirdness is the C753 which is 1uF on the schematic, 0.1 in the parts list but 10 on the actual item - it certainly keeps you on your toes!

I've read quite a bit in various threads about this and in my recap I've replaced the item with a 10uF, in accordance with the received wisdom of AK.
Being now in the final stages of the refurbishment, the sound seems good to my ear so no direct complains about the choice. However, can't escape the nagging thought that I may be inflicting undue stress on my machine by possibly using the wrong part. Hence the opening of this thread.

The schematics indeed show 1uF, in the parts list is 0.1uF, while the original part taken from the board is marked ".10uF".
This is my first ever project so there's a fair chance of me being wrong here but I suspect the right part may be 0.1uF after all.The way I see it is that they've messed up because of
-1. different ways of writing values ("0.1" same as ".10" after all)
-2. error on the schematics (listed as "1" instead of ".1")

Has anyone tried using a 0.1uF while recapping I wonder? I'm very tempted myself unless someone stops me.

 

[bryans12v]

10uf 35v is the correct value. Use only this value regardless of what you read in the manual.

Also, for a more immediate answer to your questions, the search feature here works very well. This topic has been covered many many times over the past decade.

 

[KutzlerTrans]

I probably am wrong here, but i think its there to prevent dc from the feedback loop getting through. I know on the input cap on my 2325 , i heard no difference between a .1 uf or a 100uf. bypassing the stock 1uf on the 2325 with a russian k77 .01 really made an impact though. at least one i could hear. crazy stuff.
hopefully one of the smart guys on here can explain c753's role in what its purpose is.