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2235B and 1060 Capacitor / Refurb Questions

David_NC

David_NC

Super Member
I've got these two units and have a couple questions about recapping them.

The 2235B works fine. I replaced the lights in it years ago, and other than adjusting bias and offset and a Deoxit treatment, nothing has been needed. This receiver sounds great, but I'd like to ensure longevity and to see what replacing likely out of spec components does to improve the sound. I've found a couple cap lists online that have been very helpful, in terms of the electrolytics. How about the Mylar and ceramic caps? Are they usually OK? I know the basics about replacing the electrolytic caps, but I'm a bit unsure about the non polarized / other types. The main caps are 10KuF; do people generally up these or replace with the same value?
I've done a bit of work on the 1060, and it also sounds great with no issues just as it did before I worked on it. I replaced the big filter and coupling caps a bit over a year ago, and I also replaced all the electrolytics on the power supply board. The only thing that I noticed that seems odd is the action of the filters. When I engage the low filter, it's like every bit of bass and mid-bass is completely removed. According to the manual, the low filter's cut off should be 100Hz. Similarly, the high filter seems to remove every bit of high frequencies. Using both, it sounds like an AM radio - very compressed with next to no frequency range.
I see P300 (speaker and filter assembly) has four caps C301-302 (.047uF) and C303-304 (.0068uF) Mylar caps. Would these be the cause of this, or would it be more likely to be caused by the P400 (tone and pre-amp assembly)? That board has mostly electrolytics and a few Mylar and ceramics, too. Would these likely be the cause of the filters' behavior?
I'm ready to order parts but just need to know about some of the caps. Any pointers or suggestions as how to proceed will be greatly appreciated. Both of these units have great cosmetics, and I plan on keeping them, though they won't likely be in my main system.
 
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When you speak of the P300 filter board, you must be referring to the 1060...
Since the 'filter' switches affect both the left and right channels the same, I wonder if it is something common to both channels (or perhaps your test method).

Generally speaking, if the green Mylar capacitors have been overheated I replace them. I don't normally replace ceramic capacitors unless they are damaged somehow.
I try to choose small electrolytic capacitors so that I don't have to bend the leads to get them to fit the board spacing.
An exception to this 'rule' is if I am selecting the capacitor for other considerations (such as low DA), then I mount the component so I don't stress the lead/boot area.
It is my believe that if you stress the leads in the 'rubber' boot on the bottom of the electrolytic capacitor you may cause it to leak prematurely.

Anything smaller than 1µF or in the direct audio signal path gets replaced with a film type if possible, this goes for bi-polar types.

Large electrolytic capacitors such as the big filters, I usually replace them with ones of the same diameter as the old ones so the original mounting clamps can be utilized. IIRC, in the early days, electrolytic capacitors were rated at -20%/+100% value for quite a while, so I don't feel bad about increasing the value of these and/or increasing the voltage rating to help maintain the original look and improve the bass response especially with 4 Ohm speakers.


YMMV

Tom
 
catrafter said:
When you speak of the P300 filter board, you must be referring to the 1060...
Since the 'filter' switches affect both the left and right channels the same, I wonder if it is something common to both channels (or perhaps your test method).

Generally speaking, if the green Mylar capacitors have been overheated I replace them. I don't normally replace ceramic capacitors unless they are damaged somehow.
I try to choose small electrolytic capacitors so that I don't have to bend the leads to get them to fit the board spacing.
An exception to this 'rule' is if I am selecting the capacitor for other considerations (such as low DA), then I mount the component so I don't stress the lead/boot area.
It is my believe that if you stress the leads in the 'rubber' boot on the bottom of the electrolytic capacitor you may cause it to leak prematurely.

Anything smaller than 1µF or in the direct audio signal path gets replaced with a film type if possible, this goes for bi-polar types.

Large electrolytic capacitors such as the big filters, I usually replace them with ones of the same diameter as the old ones so the original mounting clamps can be utilized. IIRC, in the early days, electrolytic capacitors were rated at -20%/+100% value for quite a while, so I don't feel bad about increasing the value of these and/or increasing the voltage rating to help maintain the original look and improve the bass response especially with 4 Ohm speakers.


YMMV

Tom
Click to expand...
Thanks for the details. I’ll up the main caps to 12,000uF. As for caps in the signal path, I guess that’s part of my question. Bare in mind that most of this is pretty new to me. ;). I see some caps with negative marked on the schematic, which tells me polarized. Others are clearly polarized, as noted by markings on the cap, but the schematics don’t indicate this. I’ve read of errors and omissions in Marantz manuals, so maybe this is one?

As for my test method on the 1060, I merely pushed each filter button and listened. It affected both channels equally. Thanks!
 
Leestereo said:
@David_NC The following restoration/upgrade threads may be useful for you:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/my-try-at-a-really-nice-rebuild-marantz-1060.489269/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...d-upgrade-of-a-marantz-2235b-receiver.610748/
Click to expand...
Thanks for those. I've read so many posts on these by now that they are running together in my mind! These two look good, so I'll bookmark them. I guess the best thing to do is to order parts I'm sure of of and then go from there. Everything is working now, so it's not as if they won't work after replacing caps... assuming I don't screw anything up! ;) Still, both of these are so accessible inside that if I have to go back into them later, it'll be no big deal. I suppose I should go ahead and replace the speaker relay, though the current one appears to work fine.
 
David_NC said:
I've got these two units and have a couple questions about recapping them.

The 2235B works fine. I replaced the lights in it years ago, and other than adjusting bias and offset and a Deoxit treatment, nothing has been needed. This receiver sounds great, but I'd like to ensure longevity and to see what replacing likely out of spec components does to improve the sound. I've found a couple cap lists online that have been very helpful, in terms of the electrolytics. How about the Mylar and ceramic caps? Are they usually OK? I know the basics about replacing the electrolytic caps, but I'm a bit unsure about the non polarized / other types. The main caps are 10KuF; do people generally up these or replace with the same value?
I've done a bit of work on the 1060, and it also sounds great with no issues just as it did before I worked on it. I replaced the big filter and coupling caps a bit over a year ago, and I also replaced all the electrolytics on the power supply board. The only thing that I noticed that seems odd is the action of the filters. When I engage the low filter, it's like every bit of bass and mid-bass is completely removed. According to the manual, the low filter's cut off should be 100Hz. Similarly, the high filter seems to remove every bit of high frequencies. Using both, it sounds like an AM radio - very compressed with next to no frequency range.
I see P300 (speaker and filter assembly) has four caps C301-302 (.047uF) and C303-304 (.0068uF) Mylar caps. Would these be the cause of this, or would it be more likely to be caused by the P400 (tone and pre-amp assembly)? That board has mostly electrolytics and a few Mylar and ceramics, too. Would these likely be the cause of the filters' behavior?
I'm ready to order parts but just need to know about some of the caps. Any pointers or suggestions as how to proceed will be greatly appreciated. Both of these units have great cosmetics, and I plan on keeping them, though they won't likely be in my main system.
Click to expand...
I have done 3 1060's Recaps and here is one of the Threads...the other one I replaced the resistors (just for kick's).
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/marantz-1060-recap.568728/

I have setup a 1060 on my Raspberry Pi/DAC testing and I always simile when I hear the sound..What a Great sounding Pre-Amp.
 
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