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2235B Tell me if it's worth it?

Richs_Trains

Richs_Trains

Well-Known Member
Hello,

I bought this cheap on ebay, in the pictures, all the buttons were in place, but after the lousy packing job, several are now broken. I have spent the last hour trying to fix the dial string that they tried to replace and strung incorrectly. My first question... in the first picture this is the back of the relay and it just looks wrong to me, like someone defeated the relay, is this right? The dial light plastic is trash, someone Mickey Moused indicator lights and used resistors instead of the correct lamps, the dial pointer is from another make stereo, they replaced the velum paper with copy paper and tape and the relay itself looks suspect. I have not plugged this in yet, once I start, I will want to fix it and I think it may be more than I can handle and more expense than it is worth. I would need both banks of buttons and a new plastic dial light housing and probably a new relay just to start. The housing and the bank of buttons, about $60.00 on the bay right now. I hate to give up on something, but someone did not treat this unit well and I would like your opinion.

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Thank you for any input, and yes, I'm almost afraid to plug it in even on a DBT. Rich
 
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Ok, I powered it up with the DBT and it wasn't shorted. The buttons that are broken have the shaft busted inside the switch itself, so they are all engaged, which means the tape monitor is on, so I can only get input through the tape monitor until I change the switches. The indicator lights are working (aux, FM, etc), but no dial lights (someone started to put LED's in it). It does produce sound and the relay seems to operate as it should. How hard is it to get to the switch PC's to replace them and where should the voltage for the dial lamps be? I guess I am going to give it a try, since it actually makes sound.
 
Richs_Trains said:
How hard is it to get to the switch PC's to replace them
Click to expand...

I would think about pulling the u-pin on the old switches, removing the plunger and any broken contents, and then inserting the plunger from the "new" switches. Would be easier than desoldering pins or entire banks of switch pins assuming there is no internal damage to the switch housing. Just a thought.
 
Two of the switch bodies are actually broken, and all of the plungers are toast. I have replaced the loudness control switch and re-attached that bank. I have ordered a board that has the switches I need for dolby, tape monitor and hi-filter and removed those switches from the current PC board. I only hope I can put this back together once I have finished! The dial lights had a lousy ground and they now work. I have replaced the selector lights that were wrong and removed the added resistor. The faceplate is almost straight and I have replaced the velum, so I guess this one is being saved. Once I have it mechanically and cosmetically correct, I will start on a re-cap. Thanks all, I'm sure I'll need your help. Rich
 
Good on you!

It will be a labor of love but it is a silver face Matantz so I'm wishing you luck just for good measure.

FWIW, replacing switches is not that tricky. I've salvaged many switched from various units just for that purpose.
 
If you get stuck, I have a 2235B for reference. I know it's hard for you to get away right now but I'm a 4 hour road trip away if need be.
 
For switches look up C&K Components, F series. Digikey has them. You can also get them with gold contacts which would be great for low level switching.
Earlier Marantz's had the gold contacts but the 2235B has silver probably for cost saving.
 
Randy, If I ever make it up there, I would really like you to check over my 4400. I had it done here in Tucson (cost me 950.00) and it just doesn't sound right to me, he changed out over 150 components, but my 4240 actually sounds better and that's what I am using now for quad. When my wife's Alzheimer's reaches it's inevitable conclusion, I hope I am able to visit with you. Thanks Rich
 
The C&K Components F series is the old Schadow/ITT Cannon switch that used to be ubiquitous in electronic equipment. I have used them in a Marantz but I don't remember which one (not my 2235B).

Page 3 of the data sheet has the dimensions.
http://www.ck-components.com/media/1402/fpush.pdf

I'm considering using the gold ones the next time that I need to do a switch cleaning (all except the speaker switches).
The Dolby FM switch will get bypassed.
 
Richs_Trains said:
Randy, If I ever make it up there, I would really like you to check over my 4400. I had it done here in Tucson (cost me 950.00) and it just doesn't sound right to me, he changed out over 150 components, but my 4240 actually sounds better and that's what I am using now for quad. When my wife's Alzheimer's reaches it's inevitable conclusion, I hope I am able to visit with you. Thanks Rich
Click to expand...
I'm in the middle in Fountain Hills. Hey, it's nearing fall up there so schedule a trip to leaf peep and the Marantz.
 
Well, I guess it was worth it. New LED's, new lamp housing, re-cap power supply and power amp, replace loudness, dolby, mono, tape monitor and high filter switches, re-string dial, replace velum and de-oxit. Here she is....

2235b_2.jpg 2235b_2.jpg

Thanks all!! Rich
 

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Bought a board on eBay that had 5 (2 (12) pin and 3 (6) pin) switches on it, pulled bad switches from the amp, pulled good switches from donor board and mounted in amp board. I was thinking of replacing the whole PC, but pulling the switches meant no actual wiring, just pull and insert. Had to pull the front frame loose to get to the switches, but it was all good. These types of switches are much better than others I have encountered, I think you could easily take these apart and clean them or replace the shaft if you needed to, the ones with the paper thin contacts inside I have had no luck with repairing (hands are just to big for such small work).
 
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