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2245 Recap - Capacitor Question - Did I mess up?

powdermnky

powdermnky

New Member
I'm about to recap my Marantz 2245 and started working off of the 'parts list v3.pdf' posted somewhere on this site. After doing lots of research here I found patfont's capacitor threads and read them several times.

In the parts list there are lots of Nichicon kl series (low leakage current) capacitors spec'd out. In my infinite wisdom, I thought it would benefit me to upgrade those to Elna Silmic II. Now I am concerned that the Elna Silmic II will have too high of a leakage.

These are the places I'm concerned with: The power supply c801, c802, c803, c804, c807 and the power amp c761 which is currently a tantalum cap.

Is this something I need to worry about? Thank you in advance.
 
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I think that v3.pdf is mine from a few years ago. I was kind of a beginner, and I posted that because there wasn’t a comprehensive list like that anywhere I could find. Even though that 2245 still sounds great, I now use Nichicon PW series in the power supply. I try to use KL series in the signal path when I can. I also use a lot of Silmic II’s because I bought a ton of them a couple of years ago. It will be interesting to hear if anyone has a problem with them in that application. I doubt if there is a problem, though.
 
Pat has done excellent research on caps and one of Pat's threads for what Caps, Films and Resistors that were selected. Main Caps I would use Nichicon KG or EPCOS.. Power Supply since the 2245 is low output I use ELNA Silmic II...High Out gear Nichicon PW or Panisonic FR, FM, FC (Low Impedance), Film Caps to replace at certain locations I use WIMA ...Nichicon KL(low leakage) to replace the Original Orange or Blue/Red caps as I would not use as a direct replacement for most of the caps in the Marantz..These general caps I use Nichicon PW or Panisonic FR, FM, FC (in my 2230/1060 Recaps I use ELNA Silmic II) and Nichicon ES for Bi-Polar. The Big Brown Ugly Film's are good, but this can be fun to experiment with Mundorf Oil, Auricap XO, etc.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/marantz-2230-throw-down-whats-all-the-buzz.550670/
 
Thanks from reading both of your responses and reading over many threads today I feel like I'm in pretty good shape. Thank you! There is always more to learn in this world. :)
 
I am. I usually do about half a board, then test with a dim bulb, then hook up to speakers and test for audio. I'm not an expert, so I'm trying to keep my problems isolated!
 
Sounds great after the recap and tune up. Ever since I purchased the amp it's had a quiet buzzing in the right speaker, even with the volume knob all the way down. Sounded similar to a 60hz or 120hz buzz. It would get buried beneath the music and wasn't noticible while listening, but it still bothered me. That's why I did the recap. But the recap didn't fix it.

I solved it today by replacing the jumpers on the back of the amp that go between the preamp and main amp. The ones that came with the amp looked like solid copper romex wire. They had no shielding and no ground connection. I replaced them with monster cable jumpers because they were the cheapest short high quality jumpers I could find. Half the price of audio quest lol. So relieved to have it sorted out!

Screenshot_20200627-152835_eBay.jpg
 
Steven Tate said:
I think that v3.pdf is mine from a few years ago. I was kind of a beginner, and I posted that because there wasn’t a comprehensive list like that anywhere I could find. Even though that 2245 still sounds great, I now use Nichicon PW series in the power supply. I try to use KL series in the signal path when I can. I also use a lot of Silmic II’s because I bought a ton of them a couple of years ago. It will be interesting to hear if anyone has a problem with them in that application. I doubt if there is a problem, though.
Click to expand...

I try to keep it simple and just use UPW on the power supply and UKL/WIMA on signal boards. I'm sure that'll evolve as I learn more but for now it keeps inventory controllable.
 
powdermnky said:
I solved it today by replacing the jumpers on the back of the amp that go between the preamp and main amp. The ones that came with the amp looked like solid copper romex wire. They had no shielding and no ground connection. I replaced them with monster cable jumpers because they were the cheapest short high quality jumpers I could find. Half the price of audio quest lol. So relieved to have it sorted out!
Click to expand...

Good deal!
Some Marantz gear requires jumpers that complete the shield connection and the inner signal connection. I think they did this to reduce hum if you used the unit as a power amplifier.
I know the 1060, 2230, 2245 and 2270 are this way.

Tom
 
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