2250B Dial Light Removal

[LBPete]

How the heck do you get the dial lamps out of a 2250B? The function lamp assembly came right off but the dial lamp holder seems stuck. I found a couple of screws that hold the lamp PC board but the board won't budge. There is a steel frame between the PC board and the plastic lamp housing. It moves freely but is blocked by the PC board.

The plastic lamp housing shows signs of melting. It looks deformed. Could this be holding the lamps? I don't see a way to remove the plastic housing. Can it be removed along with the lamp holder assembly?

Has anyone that has relamped one of these remember the removal process?

Thanks,

- Pete

 

[EchoWars]

I just did one, and at first tried to remove the lamps from the rear. I finally gave up, and pulled the tuner display off the front and got to them that way.

 

[LBPete]

To get to it from the front, it looks like you have to pull off the dial "glass." It apears to be glued on. I hate to mess with that. Am I missing something?

- Pete

 

[EchoWars]

It's held on with double-sided tape. It can be removed (slowly and carefully), but you'll likely end up destroying the vellum behind the display in the process (but it's almost certainly yellowed and in need of replacing anyway).

 

[LBPete]

Where do yo get the vellum?

- Pete

 

[EchoWars]

I have a whole book of the stuff. It's way thinner than the original, so I fold it in half to double it up.

Someone else suggested cutting up a Mylar sheet, but I'm not sure where to find the stuff.

 

[LBPete]

Had some time to spend with it today and got the lamp holder out. I removed the front rail of the chassis to get a little more room. This will make cleaning the switches and pots easier too.

The lamp housing is badly melted. The openings for the lamps have collapsed and are no longer large enough to allow the holders with the lamps installed to pass through. I wound up pushing the lamps out of the holders while it was still installed. With the lamps out, the holders could be squeezed a little to get them out.

Here's a picture of the housing. The lamps look original but they are 8v 300ma bulbs. I though Marantz typically used 8V 200ma fuse lamps. The meter lamps in this one are 8V 150 ma, a real bastard value.

In any case, is there an established fix for these melted housings? I can relieve the openings with a dremel but I'm curious about what others have done in this situation.

- Pete

 

[EchoWars]

is there an established fix for these melted housings?

Not that I know of...

The 2325 that was here a while back had a custom-made metal enclosure done by another AK'er since the original was melted beyond all recognition, but I can't say that that is a viable option for most people.

 

[LBPete]

I don't want to get that involved for a 50 watt receiver. I might try grafting on some new plastic though.

- Pete

 

[marantzbe]

Had some time to spend with it today and got the lamp holder out. I removed the front rail of the chassis to get a little more room. This will make cleaning the switches and pots easier too.

The lamp housing is badly melted. The openings for the lamps have collapsed and are no longer large enough to allow the holders with the lamps installed to pass through. I wound up pushing the lamps out of the holders while it was still installed. With the lamps out, the holders could be squeezed a little to get them out.

Here's a picture of the housing. The lamps look original but they are 8v 300ma bulbs. I though Marantz typically used 8V 200ma fuse lamps. The meter lamps in this one are 8V 150 ma, a real bastard value.

In any case, is there an established fix for these melted housings? I can relieve the openings with a dremel but I'm curious about what others have done in this situation.

- Pete

Hi Pete,
The 8v 200ma are the right lamp, the 300ma will gernerate too much heat.
Here in Belgium the 8v 200 are impossible to find. Usually I replace the lamps on the receiver with the 8v 150ma or 250ma.


Tony