• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

250 Flickering Lights

vivavinyl

vivavinyl

wax on, wax (not) off....
not sure if you noticed in the pix of the 250 i posted earlier (long overdue pix thread), but the left light in the right meter is a bit tempermental. they're all on on power up, but then it sometimes flickers after a bit and ends up producing only half power....not a huge deal, but any thoughts as to what is causing this? it sometimes happens in the left meter too. the bulbs are new, all connections are secure and in place....what could be causing it?

thanks all!
 
Register to hide this ad
I had a fuse lamp in the meter on a 2230 that did that, the fuse lamp life was short do to the problem. I found that the holders where not holding onto the lamp tight enough. I tried squeezing the clamps together but as soon as I put the lamp back in it would stretch the clamps back out and the lamps ends weren't held tight enough again. I ended up putting the lamp in then very carefully squeezing the clamp down tightly onto the lamp ends. Problem solved.

Hope this is all that is wrong with yours.

Jim
 
If you can localize the problem to the fuse/lamp holder and not the lamp, and cleaning with contact cleaner doesn't help, a last resort fix might be to put a little dab of dielectric grease between the holder and the lamp to increase and improve the contact between the two. If you are not familar with dielectric grease, it is usually used on the back of the punch-down circuit breakers to make a good contact between the breaker and the buss bar in the breaker box to avoid arcing. You can usually buy a small tube of dielectric grease at an auto parts or hardware store. Good luck!
 
glen65 said:
Take the left and right bulbs and switch them and let us know
how it goes.
Click to expand...

Hey folks

I actually tried this when i first got the amp earlier this year - but the same problem still exists.

Thanks to all so far for your input - I will try out some of your suggestions and report back.:thmbsp:
 
You could have arcing on the bulb holder(s) or the poweer switch.
Most likely the bulbs are bad. I had that on my 300DC with the supplied Marantz bulbs I got under guarantee. Replaced them with Radio Shack bulbs. The RS bulbs last for years. The Marantz bulbs lasted days.

If replacing/cleaning doesn't help, measure the voltage at the holders. In addition, look at the power switch and check if the switch is arcing or has burned areas.

Ron
 
Check the solder joints on the bulb holders. Sometimes they get desoldered from the heat with time.
 
jblmar said:
You could have arcing on the bulb holder(s) or the poweer switch.
Most likely the bulbs are bad. I had that on my 300DC with the supplied Marantz bulbs I got under guarantee. Replaced them with Radio Shack bulbs. The RS bulbs last for years. The Marantz bulbs lasted days.

If replacing/cleaning doesn't help, measure the voltage at the holders. In addition, look at the power switch and check if the switch is arcing or has burned areas.

Ron
Click to expand...

hi Ron,

the bulbs were replaced when i bought them off a reputable local dealer-type guy. i'm not sure what kind they are. as well - my luvverly 250 does not have a power switch, so we can eliminate that. thanks for yours and everyones help in this:thmbsp:
 
thunderroad said:
If you can localize the problem to the fuse/lamp holder and not the lamp, and cleaning with contact cleaner doesn't help, a last resort fix might be to put a little dab of dielectric grease between the holder and the lamp to increase and improve the contact between the two. If you are not familar with dielectric grease, it is usually used on the back of the punch-down circuit breakers to make a good contact between the breaker and the buss bar in the breaker box to avoid arcing. You can usually buy a small tube of dielectric grease at an auto parts or hardware store. Good luck!
Click to expand...


Dielectric means "insulate". It does not conduct, but helps to seal an electric connection from oxidation and moisture. You won't get a better electric connection using it, just a more protected one.
 
You will be able to tell if the lamp is loose in the holder, it will rotate easily and possibly even be able to slide back and forth easily with a finger. You may even feel the difference when installing the lamp, you won't feel that familiar snap into place. The lamp will light but the slightest vibration will cause it to dim and or flicker.

I found that some of the resiliance of the spring steel was not there so it wouldn't spring back to tight after installing the lamp. I had to use a pair of needle nose pliars and gently grip the very ends of the lamp holder and squeeze it gently but firmly to arrive at a tight connection. Once the lamp was tight enough in the holder that I couldn't easily move it around in the holder everything has been fine since.

Jim
 
hey folks
well, i swapped all the bulbs around last night and made sure everything was snug and tight. still have the same trouble. when i had them hanging out i thought i saw an arc happening below the filament on the trouble-maker - don't know if it was just a reflection or the result of about 3 beers. i'm pretty sure it's not a bulb issue. they do fit nice and tight, so i don't think it's an issue with the holder. next step will be to try some contact cleaner. after that, perhaps some re-soldering is in order as some joints seemed to have more than others - and the joints lacking, though fully intact, looked "fresher"....perhaps a re-solder gone awry?

any other thoughts?

it's funny, after meddling with them for about 20 minutes and closing her up and powering her on, they were all nice and bright with no flickering for about 10 minutes - the longest i've seen it like that. thought i had it solved, but no dice.

thanks to all for offering opinions/solutions!:thmbsp:
 
I just got a 250, and need to change the bulbs in the left meter. Do you pull the top case, or the front to get at em?
 
remove the top-plate..

and carefully twist those light-assemblys (4 pcs) about a quarter turn- and again ..carefully pull them out of the housing - one by one. The wiring is slightly delicate, but it is definately possible to do it. Unnessecary to say - but turn off amp and unplug before that operation!

regards
Freddy
 
fredmarantz said:
and carefully twist those light-assemblys (4 pcs) about a quarter turn- and again ..carefully pull them out of the housing - one by one. The wiring is slightly delicate, but it is definately possible to do it. Unnessecary to say - but turn off amp and unplug before that operation!

regards
Freddy
Click to expand...

Hey Fred,

Could you explain that a little more for me. I turn the assemblies but they don't seem to want to come out. I'm not using a lot of force...what type of device is holding them in there?

thanks
 
The metal has sort of slots cut into it on each side of the holder. You don't
need to turn them much more than a quarter turn. If you gently lift a bit when
turning, you will be able to tell where they are in relation to the plastic holder.
My 250 takes the old GE 44 bayonet bulbs but I have also heard that some of
the newer 250's switched to fuse lamps. Jon
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom