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2A3 SE or PP & Bottlehead or DIY?

targeteye said:
Store them in a safe place as an investment and build your amp around some Shuguang 2a3's.

After you get the setup up and running with the Shuguang's then and only then try them as a swap to see if there is a substantial enough difference to justify run NOS 2A3's. Especially if they are globe types.

Just my opinion.

Steve
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Very good idea. Everything I've built started with cheap, easily replaceable Chinese tubes and if building a 2A3, Schuguang 2A3c's are a great place to start. I really like the sound of them - they're not RCAs (IMO) but extremely good and a great tube to have around - I use them first every time I mess with my amp. :)
 
The Sovtek 2A3s seem a little "dry" sounding to me (not as juicy as some of the other 2A3s; even modern ones) -- not bad (they're pretty much permanently ensconced in the Paramours); just not real sexy sounding.

(which I realize has nothing at all to do with the value-added part of this thread...)
 
TerryO, no one is ripping on Bottlehead for either their price structure, their quality, or their need for a profit.

Bill and I made a reasoned note that the quality of a SET amp is determined by the quality of the iron. Bottlehead has two levels of iron, and there are a couple tiers above that level on the market, as well.

The most important parts of a first time build are expectations and quality control. If you know and accept what you are going to end up with, and you have someone who can assist and verify you are doing things properly and in good workmanlike manner, then you have it made in the shade.

People who don't admit and recognize there are nuances, and those who don't realize they have ten left thumbs, are always doomed to unmet expectations.

And to throw another SET amp builder in the mix, don't forget Anthony Cirella at Handmade Electronics in Allentown, PA. He has had very reasonable amps available in years past.
 
I had a pair of their 2A3/300B jobs with Magnequest OPTs. They sounded fine, and I have a few more of their products, I just never could get past the whole advertising and name thing. Silly I guess, it just didn't work for me.
 
IMHO you have to be a little careful with big iron for these lower powered amps. The bass just seems to happen, even with smaller iron that seems to do better in the upper mid, and high ranges. IMO again, power supplies can make the difference between a good 2A3 and a great 2A3. I think the Asian guys have had this figured out for a long time. I don't think they even have a word for electrolytic, much less a use for one.:D

I'd be curious if the bigger iron would tighten the bass (provide more exact woofer control)? Very interesting thread, lots of good stuff.:yes:
 
Good point Jay and I agree, power supplies seem to be a big part of this too and the best I've heard where built around what I think you are referring to - big PIO caps, chokes, tube rectifiers, etc. I do think though that good output iron in combination with these power supplies are important and seem to be key ingredients in the 'great' SET amps I've heard.
 
Billfort said:
Good point Jay and I agree, power supplies seem to be a big part of this too and the best I've heard where built around what I think you are referring to - big PIO caps, chokes, tube rectifiers, etc. I do think though that good output iron in combination with these power supplies are important and seem to be key ingredients in the 'great' SET amps I've heard.
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If you don't mind, what output iron are you running Bill? I've always heard very good things about your system.
 
I'm building a triple parallel 2A3 right now (monos with a separate supply chassis) using One Electron UBT-1 iron. I'm hoping and praying for 8 watts or so of 2A3 magic.:music:
 
Billfort said:
James (outputs, choke, pt) in my 2A3 amp, Electra-Print outputs in my 300B amps.
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Nice, I love the James, never had a chance to hear the electra print. I have a pair of round James outputs around here for someday, if that day ever comes. I think they are identical to the ones Nate used on his first 2A3.
 
Guys...

Don't overlook the O'Netics Iron. A number of builders use O'Netics Level III Iron and are extreamly happy with it. Not cheap, but very, very good!
:thmbsp:

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
for_p1 said:
You can make good headphones amp with 2A3. But in real life even 300B SET is barely sufficient for less than 100dB/W speakers. Push-pull 300B, or SE 845/211 is what necessary to get reasonably loud sound.
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I have used a 45 SET driven amp with speakers having 85-87 dB@1 watt/ 1 meter and been completely happy with the results. OTOH, I'm not a fan of big, boomy bass like some here.

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
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TerryO said:
I have used a 45 SET driven amp with speakers having 85-87 dB@1 watt/ 1 meter and been completely happy with the results. OTOH, I'm not a fan of big, boomy bass like some here.

Best Regards,
TerryO
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Actually boomy bass is sign of incompatibility between amp and speaker. Bass is much less boomy when I use 300W Bryston amp, rather than 15W 845 SET.
 
MorrisonMicro2A3amp4_zps25b84072.jpg


Did someone say Iron? Each time I move this beast I wonder if Matt really needed this much in a little 2A3 amp but it sure sounds solid...
 
for_p1 said:
Actually boomy bass is sign of incompatibility between amp and speaker. Bass is much less boomy when I use 300W Bryston amp, rather than 15W 845 SET.
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And the reason I drive my woofers with a 300 watt ss amp while the 2a3 powers the Lowthers.
 
Yes, a very effective way of dealing with the low bass issue. The hard part of course is integrating it without hurting the alchemy one can spin with a system built around low power SET and the right speakers.
 
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