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300,000 cue goo

ferninando

ferninando

Lunatic Member
decided to go with the 300,000 wt goo for the cue lift. the 50K stuff was too thin once it got out of the bottle, just as everyone said. Ordered from TT bascis today.

Looks like the technics lift will pull out when you remove the cue height adj. screw. At least the svc mnl shows it. Gonna try today
 
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the lift, screw and spring lift out when the screw is unscrewed, leaving the lever visable but don't know if you put the oil in there . It doesn't LOOK like a resevoir but I suppose oil could drain down in. Gotta wait till the 300,000 stuff gets here.
 
oldhifiguy said:
the lift, screw and spring lift out when the screw is unscrewed, leaving the lever visable but don't know if you put the oil in there . It doesn't LOOK like a resevoir but I suppose oil could drain down in. Gotta wait till the 300,000 stuff gets here.
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No, nothing goes where the screw is. The lift shaft that the curved bar is attached to--the actual thing that goes up and down--the hole that fits into is where the stuff goes. Squirt some in there if you can, or else smear it on the shaft and work it up and down. It doesn't work via hydraulic pressure by putting it in a reservoir. It's just creates friction between the lift shaft and the cylinder in which it raises and lowers.
 
Ah. So the spring pulls the bar down and the "grease" just slowes it down. I thought the weight of the arm broutht the arm down against hydraulic pressure. I've seen them with actual resevoirs tho, but not technics.
thanks for that explanation.
 
Let us know how it works out. I am waiting in line for my SL-1500 with the same dampening issue.
 
Knowing this info, why wouldn't axel grees work? It's thick and doesnt run and thats all that matters since it's not a "hydraulic" system. I bet it would damp the decent quite nicely. I'm gonna try it today as an experimernt even tho I ordered the 300000 stuff.
 
I have some 100,000 cP silicone oil and it is extremely heavy. I can't imagine 3x's that !
 
oldhifiguy said:
Knowing this info, why wouldn't axel grees work? It's thick and doesnt run and thats all that matters since it's not a "hydraulic" system. I bet it would damp the decent quite nicely. I'm gonna try it today as an experimernt even tho I ordered the 300000 stuff.
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Good luck with that. Let us know if you're still waiting for the tonearm to get to the record by, O let's say, Valentine's Day next year.
 
Most Technics cuing mechanisms must be unpacked from below, not serviced from the lift-bar end. You need to gain access to the underside of the tonearm base. Usually this means you need to move the bottom. On a few Technics models, however, you take out a few screws and the plinth lifts free; the tonearm base must then be unscrewed from the bottom.

Then you remove the lever that presses against the cuing shaft and remove a retainer or two to get the shaft free. Once it's out of the tube it slides inside of, you clean off all the old cue-fluid gunk, both from the inside of the tube and the outside of the cuing shaft. Next, you use a slender applicator to apply new cue fluid on the inside of the tube and the outside of the shaft. Last, you put everything back together and wipe off any excess cue fluid.

Hope this is useful.

Fred
 
I wish you had of been the first reply to my question about how to get the damn fluid in there in the first palce. lining the lift shaft dont work, the bearing grees dont work. syou got to get the stuff down inside the thing and not just on the surface.
so it's disassembley time. what a pain in the ass.!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I actually have a cue from a old ortofon arm and it's a cylinder with the lift arm part of the whole thing. It once had stiff silicine grease/oil in it but it's gone somewhere and it doesnt work so pretty good anymore.
 
oldhifiguy said:
I wish you had of been the first reply to my question about how to get the damn fluid in there in the first palce. lining the lift shaft dont work, the bearing grees dont work. syou got to get the stuff down inside the thing and not just on the surface.
so it's disassembley time. what a pain in the ass.!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I actually have a cue from a old ortofon arm and it's a cylinder with the lift arm part of the whole thing. It once had stiff silicine grease/oil in it but it's gone somewhere and it doesnt work so pretty good anymore.
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Fred is correct from an ideal standpoint and of course you would expect a tech to do it that way, especially if you are paying him to do it right. But the fact is that since it relies on friction, if you get enough gunk down in the hole and on the shaft from above it should work. This isn't a scientific precision thing. It's a "get it to work" thing. Even if you took it apart, it's still trial and error in applying just the right amount of stuff to achieve the ideal drop rate. If you want to take it apart that's your option, but I'd sure try the easy way first. Until you and another member discovered that you can remove the arm lift, I didn't know that was possible and I was recommending it Fred's way. Now I think your way from the outside would be easier with less headaches.
 
The reason you have to do it from below is that the old silicone that is now runny has to be cleaned out. The lift shaft has grooves that hold the silicone, and there is no way to pack it in from above. Dampening is not a friction phenomenon, but a function of viscosity vs. arm mass. The arm must be removed from below to access the lift shaft. Sorry, it is difficult and we technicians do charge for this job.
 
I have disassembled my latest-funny-working SL-1500 MkI. It's - really - easier done than said. :D The main issue is making sure you don't harm the tonearm as the unit needs to be upside down for disassembly.

I wouldn't recommend to do the obvious: turn the unit upside down on it's dust cover. These old screws in the plastic base can get real tight and applying any amount of force might break the cover at the hinges.

So:
Remove the dust cover by looseing the 4 screws securing it to the hinges.
Remove the platter
Secure the tonearm on the resting point and remove the headshell
Undo the two black screws securing the black cover at the front side of the motor
Undo the three bigger brass screws securing the base of the motor on the plinth
Unplug the motor

This way the plinth now has a bigger flatter area to rest upon without damaging the tonearm or the strobe prism.

Undo the screws around the plastic base of the plinth and raise the cover.

You now have access to the base of the tonearm.

Depending on what kind of support you can obtain for the plinth resting upside down, you might be able to skip removing the motor. This makes opening the base a simple job.
 
Nakdoc said:
The reason you have to do it from below is that the old silicone that is now runny has to be cleaned out. The lift shaft has grooves that hold the silicone, and there is no way to pack it in from above. Dampening is not a friction phenomenon, but a function of viscosity vs. arm mass. The arm must be removed from below to access the lift shaft. Sorry, it is difficult and we technicians do charge for this job.
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Well, if that really is the case, then I confess ignorance and apologize for suggesting that it can be done from above.
 
Howard is kind of right about the whole thing kind of being like friction but it isn't really a friction thing as Nacdok said.

The damping fluid is very viscuous which means it's difficult to get it to move from one place to another. If you put even thick axle grease on your fingers and rub them together, it feels slippery. If you do the same thing with the damping fluid, there is great resistance to movement.

This is the principle used in tonearm damping systems where the fluid is placed between the lift bore and the lifting pin. Without the fluid in there, the arm will drop rapidly, of course, from it own weight on the pin. When the fluid is in there, since any movement has to displace the fluid, the arm drops slowly as the fluid is moved in the bore.

I learned all this back in 1978 when my BIC 980's damping fluid needed to be replaced as it had all run down out of the bore. Hehe, I tried thick grease too :^). Then I wrote to BIC and they sent me some new fluid gratis.

The BIC mechanism is unique in that there is also a spring working on the lever and you can adjust the spring tension via a knob for different cueing rates.

I think most systems use the 100,000 stuff but I want to try the 300,000 fluid sometime too.

Doug
 
I appreciate all the honest input on this. I'm going to TRY Hakaplan's method without total dissembly. My TT is the "changer" version and has extra junk underneath making removal of all the hardware twice as difficult, and the tonearm wires run thru it and the tonearm requires removaal as well. All a very nasty job what with those tiny wires to keep from breaking. If I can force by any means the 300000 fluid down into the cue mech I will and let you all know the outcome. Please stand by.
 
As an aside, I use a piece of 4" thick "eggcrate" foam to support an upside down turntable. The type of foam they use to ship electronics or to line gun cases. Any knobs or buttons fit in the depressions of the foam and the tonearm sits safely off to the side.

I'd be worried about petroleum based greases attacking the plastic over time (??).
 
I took my 1610 apart last weekend. Removed the tonearm and took apart the cueing. It's not an easy job but it is do-able. Keep track of what you remove. Once you have the tonearm base out remove the cueing track from above, hold it down and unscrew it. Flip it over and remove the anti skate screw. Remove the cueing mechanism held by 2 screws from the tonearm base. On the cueing mechanism remove the "C" clamp, this is where I jam my dental tool into my thumb as I did last weekend, it's almost healed. After removing the "C" clamp there is a washer & spring and the shaft comes right out. There is no packing or reservoir below so the fluid has to be really thick. The shaft has 2 recessed areas, make sure there are full of fluid as you reinsert the shaft. While it's apart relube all the plastic auto changer parts. Put the whole thing back together. I found out the lube I used was to thin and the the cueing still doesn't work. I'm waiting for the local hobby shop to get 300,000 in then I going to do it again.

On a positive note the auto start use to set down on the label. No matter how many times I adjusted it. I put everything back together and it works great (I don't know why), was able to adjust the set down. Beyond the cueing it is better than new.

Next time I'll take pictures.
 
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