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317 for repair...good deal?

Sergimm

Active Member
I'm looking for a nice vintage amp, and I have the opportunity of buying a Sansui AU-317 for 60€ (around $68). The amp is apparently not working (no sound coming out, but it does turn on). Without knowing much else, is it worth buying in your opinion? I don't know much about the brand besides it being one of the better ones. I can find my way around electronics, soldering, and basic amp restoration.
 
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Glue/fusable resistor issues I'm sure.
Value questions belong in Dollars & Sense.
I would want it for cheaper, but the price is fine if you know what you're doing for repair.
 
That would be a good amp to play with. Relatively simple, not particularly expensive or valuable. A perfect first project. It probably just needs to be cleaned.

- Pete
 
Glue/fusable resistor issues I'm sure.
Value questions belong in Dollars & Sense.
I would want it for cheaper, but the price is fine if you know what you're doing for repair.
Thanks! I'm new to the forum and I didn't know about Dollars & Sense, duly noted :)
 
That would be a good amp to play with. Relatively simple, not particularly expensive or valuable. A perfect first project. It probably just needs to be cleaned.

- Pete
Thanks for your opinion, really useful as it would indeed be a first project to play with.
 
Como referencia te digo que puedes encontrar una primera serie 317 en perfecto estado por aproximadamente 180 euros. Sin saber nada más sobre el desglose, no lo compraría.
 
I'm probably biased because I own one, but it's rare to find anyone saying anything bad about the 317. Personally, I think they're undervalued compared to similar vintage offerings from other builders, so I'd happily buy one today for $68 if I thought I could make it cosmetically nice. Just now putting together a parts list to recap mine so I can't say firsthand, but they certainly appear to be easy enough to work on. There are a number of 317 threads here to help guide you if you choose to take it on.

Good luck!
 
I have rebuilt 3 of the 317s and 4 of the 217s.

just be prepared to spend some time on it and dont rush getting all the old glue off the PCBs. and don't use a screwdriver blade to remove the glue. buy a small wood dowel, and create a blunt end on one tip. apply solvent, and gently nudge the glue until it releases from the board. if you use a screw driver tip, you will scratch the board and remove some of the silk screening.

the parts are pretty easy to get to. good luck.
 
hi Sergimm,

found some old pictures of one of the 317s. If you want to go nuts, here are the locations of added bypass caps I did for a guy on the 317. was amazed at how good it sounded when complete.
 
hi Sergimm,

found some old pictures of one of the 317s. If you want to go nuts, here are the locations of added bypass caps I did for a guy on the 317. was amazed at how good it sounded when complete.
Hi, do you remember the values of each Mylar bypass caps you used for the six 470uF ones? Did you use another value for these? And are you using metallized polypros to bypass the smoothing caps (uF value?) for 18V Zeners and for regulators, too? I see they are 100nF/100V, but did you keep same stock values for the electrolytics?
I remember I once used a couple of 39nF Mylar caps bypassing C605, C606 in one 317 that I used for experiments, but it was a while ago.
 
Thanks for the pics & suggestions, @mcgjohn It's been years since I've done anything more than swap parts so I'm eagerly taking in as much as I can from those experienced with the 317. Like @Karl vd Berg, I'd like to know more about the values used and how using bypasses in those locations affected sound. Heck, anything you're willing to share about the 317 would be great! I'm the original owner of mine & it's untouched at this point, so when I do it I want to do it right.
 
@MRPerformance,

Sansui did a ton of engineering work back in the 70s. they were one of the first to look at the effect of bypass caps on the power supply. Today many manufacturers use them. If you contact me off line, can email you the hi rez pics so you can read the values. most are .22uf or .1uf or .01uf

best
 
Hi, do you remember the values of each Mylar bypass caps you used for the six 470uF ones? Did you use another value for these? And are you using metallized polypros to bypass the smoothing caps (uF value?) for 18V Zeners and for regulators, too? I see they are 100nF/100V, but did you keep same stock values for the electrolytics?
I remember I once used a couple of 39nF Mylar caps bypassing C605, C606 in one 317 that I used for experiments, but it was a while ago.

Hi @Karl vd Berg, dont remember the exact values, but as I mentioned to @MRPerformance, these were common values. did not change the electrolytic values much or at all. Sansui picked pretty good values for low ripple.
The main thing I did was make sure I was using genuine Nichicon UPW caps and not some fake, there are many out there. The UPW type is ultra low ESR and high ripple. I installed new Zeners too, since that was cheap insurance.

Should also note, on the Sansuis, where the glue had not eaten through the cap lead, some of the factory installed power supply caps still tested quite good (ESR and capacitance meas). So would speculate storage conditions would have a lot to do with how well the caps age or don't age.

As I side note, should add I have a few Sansui Au-217s. One of them, I use for my computer audio speakers on an internet machine. Have an audiophile 192 PCI card I route the analog outputs to the aux input on the 217. I recapped that 217 seven years ago. Since then, its has been on 24/7, with not a single issue from it. I also added all sorts of bypass caps to it, maybe even more than the 317s I have done, and its a sweet sounding amp as long as you use it within its power range. If I can find the pics, anyone who is interested in upgrading their 217, will be happy to pass along.

best
 
forgot to add, the yellow caps are nichion YX type film and foil, not metalized film, film and foil sound much more open and relaxed. Both are available from digikey and possibly mouser.
Data sheets attached.
Thank you, John. I was looking for this Nichicon YX series a while, but didn't know which type/brand they were! Bookmarked! :)
 
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