5-Pin Caps

[jheu02]

Anyone know where to get replacements for these older style caps? I've been searching Mouser, Digikey, Allied, Michael Percy catalogs and can't seem to find them.

Caps in question are the main filter caps in a Philips High Fidelity Labs 7951 receiver. The cap markings follow:

Nichicon
5600uF 50wv
Ear Negative
270099-45
85 C
7750 (stamped sometime after manufacture)

From the photo attached it appears that the 4 "outer ring" pins are all connected so that must be what's meant by Ear Negative. Then there's one pin offset towards the center of the cap.

Some of the data sheets show there are 5 pin options, but it appears that 2 of the 5 are positive, the remaining 3 negative. They'd all be special order. Could this turn into having to cut the can open and stuffing the can with a newer 2-lead cap soldered to the existing pinout?

John

 

[karlo]

if they sit among the tubes , atop/hanging the amp , you can return them to cosmetic duty....
meanwhile , just buy individual caps of same volts/mfd's replace one at a time . ,jumper them anywhere in the
lower chassis they'll fit. caps are much smaller than they used to be, and finding remote space has never been a problem for me.

 

[avionic]

Anyone know where to get replacements for these older style caps? I've been searching Mouser, Digikey, Allied, Michael Percy catalogs and can't seem to find them.

Caps in question are the main filter caps in a Philips High Fidelity Labs 7951 receiver. The cap markings follow:

Nichicon
5600uF 50wv
Ear Negative
270099-45
85 C
7750 (stamped sometime after manufacture)

From the photo attached it appears that the 4 "outer ring" pins are all connected so that must be what's meant by Ear Negative. Then there's one pin offset towards the center of the cap.

Some of the data sheets show there are 5 pin options, but it appears that 2 of the 5 are positive, the remaining 3 negative. They'd all be special order. Could this turn into having to cut the can open and stuffing the can with a newer 2-lead cap soldered to the existing pinout?

John

Could this turn into having to cut the can open and stuffing the can with a newer 2-lead cap soldered to the existing pinout?

Most likely..Easy enough with this one as its only one capacitor rather than a multi-sectioned cap. Looks like at least two choices from Mouser.
http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compo...Capacitors-Leaded/_/N-75hqw?P=1z0wqrwZ1z0vkpm

 

[Hyperion]

Or here

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/br...e&locale=en_UK&catalogId=&prevNValues=1000224

 

[aidynphoenix]

from the photo it looks like 4 of the leads are from the same thing.. (outer shell)
and the center one is probably the + side.. ?? i could be wrong though..

 

[ccheath]

from the photo it looks like 4 of the leads are from the same thing.. (outer shell)
and the center one is probably the + side.. ?? i could be wrong though..

You are not wrong!

 

[jheu02]

Yes, the 4 outer pins all stem from the same ring and are the negative lead. The 5th lead that sits offset toward the center of the cap is the positive. In speaking with someone at Mouser (forget her name), we went thru the data sheet

http://www.chemi-con.com/files/KMH_Web.pdf

and she showed me how to find (or not in this case) in the Mouser part numbers when there's more than one lead option for a cap series. In this case, they only stocked the 2 lead version and it would take 19 weeks lead time and a minimum order MUCH larger than the 2 I need.

So, how involved is cutting open a conventional electrolytic cap to stuff with a new one and wire to the existing pin arrangement?

Is there any concern with safety of stuffing a cap into another shell fro a heat or other standpoint?

Would it be easier to just use a 2 or 3 lead cap if it fit the board-trace and then jumper underneath (or even above) from the negative lead to the other holes as was suggested in the first reply?

What would be the best jumper material to use? I have some leftover wire (single strand 22guage) from rewiring the crossovers of a set of Philips speakers. It's already encased, but I don't have any idea what it's rated for.

The reason I feel the need to replace the caps is there's a speaker pop/thump when turning on/off the receiver. It has a rotary power switch/speaker selector. All the resistors and diodes "seem" to check good and within tollerance on that board, though all tests were done in-circuit. I did find one poorly soldered connection on one of the output transistors, but that didn't fix the thump. Any other likely candidates cause this pop?


John

 

[karlo]

ok, if you insist. but i've had much more success replacing individual caps than trying to
reinvent the wheel .

are you sure there's no room to remote mount them in the chassis?

 

[danj]

if they sit among the tubes , atop/hanging the amp , you can return them to cosmetic duty....
meanwhile , just buy individual caps of same volts/mfd's replace one at a time . ,jumper them anywhere in the
lower chassis they'll fit. caps are much smaller than they used to be, and finding remote space has never been a problem for me.

I agree with karlo. Refit the can for cosmetics and wire in individual caps where they can't be seen (the underside). It will be cheaper and sound as good. The only reason I can see to go the big can route is if you must restore it to stock configuration.

 

[jheu02]

I think there's a little misunderstanding. The unit is not a tube unit and the cap is not a multi-cap. It's a single 5600uF cap. there's 2 of them and each has 4 negative leads and 1 positive lead. The underside of the chassis would have enough room for small bypass caps, but not a 5600uF electrolytic.

I'm not worried about keeping the unit stock, so the only reason I'd stuff the can with a new cap would be to wire it to the original pins for less clutter. There should be plenty of room above the board given that new caps are smaller than old stock. If I could get a direct replacement it would be great, but it seems that I may have to just solder the 3 extra negative leads to the primary one. Whether this is done above the board or below I'm not sure which will be easier.

Either way, I'll have to have the legs insulated so they don't touch anything else, especially if I do the jumpers under the board. Wouldn't want the legs to hit any other traces.

John