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60s Console Wormhole — HELP!

Wow, Swank and Kent.

I think you guys have shown me the light here.

Thank you!!!

I think I was looking for “help” when really what I needed was an intervention.

I have no doubt taken for granted how cool this piece could be if resurrected the way it should be. “Butchering” a late 70s house brand furniture console is maybe one thing, but I think you’re right about this one. It is a cool dang piece. I probably took it for granted because I got it cheap and knew “it didn’t work” when I bought it, so I had this idea about “upgrading” it. I see the potential now in just getting it back to what it should be.

This could also give me the best of both worlds!!!

I can complete a cool little vintage hifi setup for right now, getting the speakers I actually want, not being limited on size. (I’ve passed on some promising deals because of this). AND then, I can slowly bring this thing back to life, whether I learn to do it myself (a skill I’ve been wanting to learn), or I enlist a pro.

I sincerely appreciate the help offered by others above, but I think I know what I want to do now.

I have no doubt I’ll be leaning on AK throughout this journey.

Thanks again all!!!
 
I was going to add to the above that the speakers were designed to sound good with the original electronics. It's not uncommon for solid state amps to sound different on speakers designed for tubes or during the tube era.

I kinda feel the same way about keeping consoles original, although my earlier posts were based on no detailed knowledge of the console or the quality of the amp. I did suggest keeping all the electronics so they could be put back, and that's what the OP said he was planning to do ('keeping the cabinet original'). Looking at the pics from dswankey, it's clear this is a dandy.

Appreciate everything!
 
Can you explain why and or what it is that you believe that the amp, tuner & TT appear to be DOA? They could very well be but I doubt that is the case unless something really bizarre happened that killed all of the units.
Basically, I guess because when I plugged it in, nothing happened. I’m going to mess with it tomorrow and see if I can get some more detail.

Thanks so much!
 
Don't plug it in yet!

I just noticed this in one of the pictures you originally posted (note the red oval) something doesn't look right as that looks like it emanates from the tuner/control center and where it's supposed to terminate I'm not sure. Check around and see if you can determine where those connects should be connected to.

I'm not technically proficient so I'm guessing here that maybe/might/could be a culprit as to why "nothing happened" when you plugged it in.


D23EA555-34D2-4A3A-B8BA-0249A360390C.jpeg


Also here's an extensive thread on a restoration

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/rca-4vf464-restoration.433025/
 
To turn the console on for the tuner or changer you have to pull up on the loudness control, if left in the "off" position it will come on when the changer is started (using the RCA changer). In an earlier post just above this one the wire that is dangling is the phono pickup wire, it has a red, a white and the ground. I've repaired two of these sets (I own one of them), and they are quite good sounding. The tuner gets its power through the umbilical cord on the side of the amplifier chassis, you may want to reseat that connector. Check the cord as well, sometimes the wires get broken at the plug end.
 
To turn the console on for the tuner or changer you have to pull up on the loudness control, if left in the "off" position it will come on when the changer is started (using the RCA changer). In an earlier post just above this one the wire that is dangling is the phono pickup wire, it has a red, a white and the ground. I've repaired two of these sets (I own one of them), and they are quite good sounding. The tuner gets its power through the umbilical cord on the side of the amplifier chassis, you may want to reseat that connector. Check the cord as well, sometimes the wires get broken at the plug end.
Man this is great help!
 
To turn the console on for the tuner or changer you have to pull up on the loudness control, if left in the "off" position it will come on when the changer is started (using the RCA changer). In an earlier post just above this one the wire that is dangling is the phono pickup wire, it has a red, a white and the ground. I've repaired two of these sets (I own one of them), and they are quite good sounding. The tuner gets its power through the umbilical cord on the side of the amplifier chassis, you may want to reseat that connector. Check the cord as well, sometimes the wires get broken at the plug end.
So I plugged it in, and still nothing. Should not the amp begin to show SOME signs of life once the pull pot is lifted?

Also, I see where the phono lead connects to the bottom of the changer. Do you know which lead goes where? Like “red, black, ground left to right, etc?” I can’t seem to find any pics
 
So I plugged it in, and still nothing. Should not the amp begin to show SOME signs of life once the pull pot is lifted?

Also, I see where the phono lead connects to the bottom of the changer. Do you know which lead goes where? Like “red, black, ground left to right, etc?” I can’t seem to find any pics
Scratch that!!! I switched it to “FM STR” and it suddenly lit up!!

No sound yet, but this is super encouraging!!
 

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Be careful nothing overheats (transformers and big cap cans especially) and that the output tubes aren't redplating while it's running.

You may have some dirty switches in there.
 
Be careful nothing overheats (transformers and big cap cans especially) and that the output tubes aren't redplating while it's running.

You may have some dirty switches in there.

What @toxcrusadr means if you don't know is that they will start to turn red which is not a good sign and should be turned off until further evaluation. here's an example from the web.

redplate.jpg
 
Scratch that!!! I switched it to “FM STR” and it suddenly lit up!!

No sound yet, but this is super encouraging!!

To anyone following thing thread that would know, should these bare wires be a cause for concern, Note the 2nd image of another RS-117 (from the web)

9328E517-59B6-4951-9BD5-27F7FA116470.jpeg


RCA2.jpg
 
Part of the restoration process, a BIG part, is researching to discover how a particular piece of equipment was originally and returning it to that condition. That resolves all questions about bare wires, unconnected leads, etc.

I agree that your RCA should be restored to original condition. Don't adulterate it.

Doug
 
The answer to the question about bare wires (and any other wires) is to get a schematic, and if you're lucky, a wiring diagram or annotated picture. If you need help with it, post the diagram(s) here and we can help sort things out.

Edit: The other thread linked above has a link to a schematic. I expect these are some kind of inputs that are shorted with jumper wires, which should not have any voltage on them, but never assume! When it doubt, look it up, and check its voltage to ground (chassis) when the unit is powered up.
 
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^ Good call Tox, however the OP self professed that he's a newb when it comes to tube gear and while your points are spot on and valid I'm not sure a schem is going to be of any any help to him at this point.

If it were me I would track down a tube tech, unbolt & disconnect the tube amp and bring it into a shop to just have it gone over.

FWIW, here's a schem for a RS-177A, I doubt it's too much differnt from the 177J

RCA_RS177A.jpg
 
Scratch that!!! I switched it to “FM STR” and it suddenly lit up!!

No sound yet, but this is super encouraging!!
@wphiggins I have a fairly long thread of a rebuild I did with some help, of course. If this project if yours is still in progress and the amp hasn't been messed with, I'm happy to share the thread with you. Mine is now a standalone amp I use regularly.
 

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