• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

9090DB Main Filter Cap Replacement Questions

akadrhouse

akadrhouse

SuchaNoob
Subscriber
I'm replacing the main filter caps on a friends 9090DB. He bought it with a pretty nice recap job about 2 years ago, but it always had a pronounced hum. The original recap included good components, new relay, mostly fine gold and panasonic FCs. As well as diodes and fusistors. But they didn't change out the main filter caps, so I decided to do so and see if that helped with the hum. At the very least, I also hoped to tighten up the bass which wasn't as tight as I would have expected.

I got the replacement parts that are the exact same size, and had a few questions. Pic below
Original on left.
  • Hot came in on the +
  • negative (white) on the marked bottom - .
  • Bar as shown connected - to + and was the ground
You can see my plan on the right side with the new 15,000UF/100V replacements.


Questions:
  1. What filter cap would best for this? It was not part of original implementation. I was thinking a 1uf/250v panasonic film cap. I'm assuming anything film in the 1-10uf range and with voltage that exceeds the caps (100v) would be fine?
  2. Can I use both sets of the + and - on the new caps?
    • As in, put the bleeder resister on unoccupied + and negative, or should I just clip those and have the bleeder resistor on the same as film caps?
  3. Using the original bleeder resistors is fine I take it?


upload_2021-8-15_22-6-3.png
 
Register to hide this ad
akadrhouse said:
What filter cap would best for this? It was not part of original implementation. I was thinking a 1uf/250v panasonic film cap. I'm assuming anything film in the 1-10uf range and with voltage that exceeds the caps (100v) would be fine?
Click to expand...
Correct.
akadrhouse said:
Can I use both sets of the + and - on the new caps?
  • As in, put the bleeder resister on unoccupied + and negative, or should I just clip those and have the bleeder resistor on the same as film caps?
Click to expand...
You should be able to, but that's the first time I've seen '5 terminal' capacitors with that terminal arrangement - i.e with 2 +ve and 2 -ve terminals and a dummy.
akadrhouse said:
Using the original bleeder resistors is fine I take it?
Click to expand...
Correct.

Your wiring arrangement is correct as well, although I hope the finished article looks a great deal neater. :) NB: The film capacitor leads should be a lot shorter (like the original bleeder resistors) - or sleeved for safety. ;)
 
Thank you @Hyperion !

This was just a layout for the picture to ask questions. I will definitely clean up the wiring and shorten the leads :)

Hyperion said:
Correct.
You should be able to, but that's the first time I've seen '5 terminal' capacitors with that terminal arrangement - i.e with 2 +ve and 2 -ve terminals and a dummy.
Correct.

Your wiring arrangement is correct as well, although I hope the finished article looks a great deal neater. :) NB: The film capacitor leads should be a lot shorter (like the original bleeder resistors) - or sleeved for safety. ;)
Click to expand...
I tried to edit my poor post title, but it won't let me.
 
akadrhouse said:
I tried to edit my poor post title, but it won't let me.
Click to expand...
As a subscriber you should be able to. ;)

It's in 'Thread Tools' somewhere - I'll see if I can find it.... found it @akadrhouse

Above the first post and on the right hand side - some grey text saying 'Thread Tools' click on that. ;)
 
Last edited:
I thought I recognized the negative terminal marking. Those are great caps. I have used them on both a BA-F1 and a BA-5000 and truthfully I am more impressed with them than the Nichicon Super-Through. I was hesitant at first about adapting the snap-in style termination but ended up using a little busbar fabrication:

CDE.jpg

I had run across a random reference on some forum that claimed the Dutch DIY folks swore by them, so I figured I would try them. They seemed to take a number of hours to open up, but have turned out to be a great choice. And certainly cost-effective.
 
HDJR808 said:
I thought I recognized the negative terminal marking. Those are great caps. I have used them on both a BA-F1 and a BA-5000 and truthfully I am more impressed with them than the Nichicon Super-Through. I was hesitant at first about adapting the snap-in style termination but ended up using a little busbar fabrication:

View attachment 2316829

I had run across a random reference on some forum that claimed the Dutch DIY folks swore by them, so I figured I would try them. They seemed to take a number of hours to open up, but have turned out to be a great choice. And certainly cost-effective.
Click to expand...

That is nicely organized. What metal are the bars? Brass?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom