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A/D/S 910 studio monitors

vtomike

vtomike

Super Member
Just got back from Lake Havasu with these. They were posted as Sound Dynamics 120s speakers. They were in the Sound Dynamics boxes. They have consecutive serial numbers but different drivers and crossovers. Not sure why? The wood is not in the best shape but I got them for a very good price.
Does anybody have a crossover schematic?
How do I wire these up to speaker cables?

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:jawdrop:

Second one tonight. Those are some SERIOUS speakers. They could have cards plugged into the slots of the crossovers to change from bi-amp to tri-amp. You need to ask if they have the custom racks that attached to the sides. A/D/S was about accuracy- flat freq response with plenty of detail. I am envious!
 
The owners manual and brochure can be found at http://sportsbil.com/ads/

They made versions of the crossover with and without power meters. You seem to have one of each.

These speakers use a "program card" to route through and around the various crossover components depending on whether you run them bi-amp, tri-amp or with a single amp.

As far as the drivers go, I can't see much from your pictures except that the woofers on one speaker are a different color. They might just be faded. Each driver should have a label on the back with a 206- number on it. Try matching them up in this thread in this document: http://sportsbil.com/ads/ads parts schedule 1992 share.pdf

They were originally sold with stands that hold the boxes from the sides. If you find out that they're still kicking around where you bought these, go back and get them!
 
AKer Dennydog has a pair of 910's. If you don't have the stands, I he might have a spare pair of reproduction stands he fabricated....I stress the word, might.


Maybe the reason why the drivers are different is because they are service replacements? :scratch2:
 
From the back the crossovers look different. One tweeter looks smaller. I think it is a later version. I have one crossover that has the LED lights that i took out. One mid is out. It is not the fuse or the switch. I have used de-oxit on everything but can't get the mid out yet to check it.
 
The 3/4" tweeter is newer than the 1". You shouldn't have too much trouble finding either one to make a pair. Are your serial numbers higher than 3210?

Make sure the driver plug and program card connections are clean.

If you remove two of the mounting screws for the midrange and loosen the others, you should be able to angle a small wedge through one of the holes and behind the plate and get the driver to pop free. I usually just aim the point of one of the screws in there at an angle and give it a couple turns.
 
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