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A Diamond in the Rough: Polishing Heath's AA-30 (AA-111)

dcgillespie

Fisher SA-100 Clone
Subscriber
I need another power amplifier like I need a hole in my head. But as I have "matured" in my audio years, the ever imbedded Tim Taylor motto of "Mo' Power!" has begun to wane in me. 100+ db efficient speakers has so often left me asking why have so much power? I know all the arguments, but even when I crank 38 Special's Hold on Loosely with the bass boosted, or let some of Bach's organ pieces dust the ceiling fans, the power peaks rarely eclipse 10 watts per channel. My typical listening power (i.e., 98% of the time) barely reaches a couple of watts per channel. I've got big tube power, and it's great stuff. But to have it idle at a power output of maybe a couple of watts while dissipating 75 times or more that amount of power in heat virtually all the time is sorta crazy, from any one of a number of angles. So, while the big stuff will always be a part of me, as long as my speakers are as efficient as they are, ratcheting things down a bit makes a lot of sense for me. But just because the power is turned down, I still want the sound itself to be just as big.

Lower power in this case means a good 15 to 20 watts RMS in both channels. When other factors are plugged into the equation, that ultimately equates for me to the 6BQ5 family of tubes, in some form of push-pull configuration. Now each will have their own favorite as to just which amp constitutes their favorite pump house with these tubes. But for me, the short list (in no particular order) includes the Dynaco ST-35, Fisher SA-100, and Heathkit AA-30, because they have the best goods to deliver the best goods. Heathkit offered a face lifted version of the AA-30 as the AA-111, but other than the appearance change, the circuit and build of the two units are identical in every respect. Between them, my personal preference is for the AA-30, as the gold and black color scheme makes for a darn good lookin' unit in a small package.

Within the short list, I already have a superb ST-35, and an equally worthy clone of the SA-100, which some may remember as a project over on the Fisher Forum. But a basic stereo power amplifier in this power range from Heathkit has been missing from my stable. When one became available recently at auction then, I pounced on it. It was in decent physical shape, came complete with the cover and original manual, and was even located close by so I could pick it up. Heck, even the goofy plastic feet were all in tact! For the most part, it was even operational.

A quick once over showed that the circuit boards had certainly been rode hard and put up wet from all the heat they had endured over time, and from some less than careful previous service efforts as well. Otherwise however, the unit was well built according to the pics and directions in the Heath manual. And, the previous owner had already replaced a number of caps and resistors throughout the unit, so component tolerance was not a problem. Ultimately then, once a really weak output tube and a couple of bum coupling caps were replaced, the unit was ready for both lab and sonic testing. The results from those efforts were quickly made clear to me: While the general sound was good, there were other aspects of the unit that were easily evident in both the lab and listening setting, that were completely unacceptable to me.

A web search returned the usual threads of bringing one of these units back from the dead, general trouble shooting, or discussing which components sounded best in them. But none of them mention or address the general shortcomings I noted with my unit. Shortcomings, that were not the result of a poor build or bad components, but rather were simply a product of the basic design/layout of the unit, and therefore would be present in all such units.

Against that however, because there is SO much potential for these units, and because the AA-30 is such a good looking "right size" unit for me, I decided to go all out after all the issues I noted. The results have been nothing short of stellar -- truly transformational, putting a high gloss polish on a rough stone. I will present the issues noted in laundry list form in this post, and use succeeding posts to address the resolve devised for each. The issues can be grouped into two basic areas: Hum, and Everything Else.

With 101 db (Cornwall) speakers, and a typical preamp (Fisher 400C) to drive the AA-30, the quiescent hum from my listening position some 10 ft away was intolerable, as it was easily/readily apparent. To me, ANY quiescent hum that can be heard at the listening position is unacceptable, as then it becomes part of the overall presentation. Frankly, the only quiescent noise I want to hear is a soft hiss, apparent only when the ear is within literally inches of the speaker board. Any type of quiescent noise that can be heard at the listening position then is completely unacceptable.

The hum in this unit was made up of a variety of types, and therefore, was produced from a variety of design concerns. The hum noted consisted of:

1. Excessive 120 Hz Hum:

Especially notable when first turned on. This always calmed down when the output tubes were fully warmed, but never completely went away. Even with well matched output tubes, the noise was ever present. Filter caps were not the basis of this noise.

2. Excessive Ground Loop Hum:

This was particularly problematic, in that simply connecting a turned off, unplugged preamp to the input jacks caused a notable increase in ground loop hum, that could only be reduced by either lifting the ground connection of one of the interconnects (either channel, by only partially inserting the plug), or by turning both gain controls to minimum. The latter approach of course results in no music, while the former approach is dangerous if the ground connection within the one interconnect providing the ground connection becomes compromised. It can and does happen. This made up the majority of the total hum produced.

3. Excessive Left Channel Hum -- (especially at partial level control settings)

Between all three of these issues, this unit could hum a tune all by itself, even without a little help from its friends. Actually, Heath was aware of the general noise concern as well, as evidenced by the rather dismal Hum and Noise specification of 76 db below 14 watts.

As for Everything Else:

4. The AA-30 has excessive gain (requiring just .74 vac to produce 14 watts), elevating the quiescent hiss level when a preamp is connected, and causing the volume control on a typical preamp to operate "down in the weeds". Of course, the gain controls on the AA-30 can be backed off -- but here comes more hum in the left channel if you do, and compromised HF response in both channels as well.

5. In the lab, the AA-30 has visibly excessive 10 kHz square wave ringing. Again, this was not due to component/build issues, but simply was the product of the design. Poor transient stability (as evidenced by by excessive ringing) is almost always a sure sign of poor overall HF stability as well.

6. Surprise, surprise. A cap only load of just over .05 uF caused either channel to go ballistic (produce outright high power oscillation). This is really bad behavior. For OPTs that are otherwise of very superior performance, this was a major disappointment of the design.

So again, for such a promising unit, the excessive hum, noise, ringing, and stability issues left my AA-30 coming off like a rank amateur, against the polished presentation of its other stall mates. Fortunately, they can all be resolved -- starting next time.

Dave
 
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is there a difference between power "available" at idle
and power "produced" when working?
An amp Unplugged has the potential of producing X watts of power.
An amp in operation is actually producing X watts of power.
I think.
 
Hi Dave, always a pleasure reading your posts. I wondered if the AA30 have the same output transformers as the AA-151 integrated amp. I have an AA151 that I have rebuilt and I really like the build quality on those units. The overall look is vintage 1950s with a "leatherette case and clear plastic knobs. The chassis is made of Aluminum and wiring is point to point. The circuit is PP UL EL84 with a 6AN8 driver/splitter tube. The preamp section is all 12ax7 and 6au6. DC is accomplished with a 5AR4 rectifier. I have not listened to it in a few years so I should fire it up again and see how it compares to the Single Ended Pentode EL84 amps that I have been using now. cheers, Primo
 
This looks to be a masterclass in servicing a basic EL84 amp, and dealing with various hum sources. I'll be lurking and learning! :lurk:

... And wondering if those 7199s will be staying.
 
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Ferninando -- My first inclination is to say: Of course there is -- but then I'm not sure I understand the basis of your question to comment further........

Primosounds -- Thanks for the kind words. The Heath 51-29 OPT is shared between a whole host of Heath products, including, the UA-1, UA-2, AA-61, EA-2, EA-3, AA-13, AA-161, AA-30, AA-111, SA-2, and AA-151 models. With the exception of the AA-13, the power transformers within the mono and stereo units are all identical as well. The AA-13 was unique in being offered with a dual primary power transformer, allowing for 240 volt operation. I may have missed of couple of models, but the ones listed make up the bulk of those units using the 51-29 OPT.

I do in fact have an absolutely trashed AA-151 unit (not by me) that I purchased as little more than a door stop. Years ago, I got the power section going in it long enough to know I always wanted to pursue it further by harvesting the transformer set, and building a scratch build basic stereo power amplifier along the lines of the AA-30. But "stuff" kept getting in the way of that project. When the AA-30 came along, it jump started my original goal, allowing me to pursue the real thing.

Thanks for the interest!

Dave
 
Dandy -- So many of the early (i.e. first) stereo offerings (of which the AA-30 is) from even some of the best manufacturers were plagued with ground loop hum, because they didn't have any experience building two amplifier channels on a common chassis. With the grounds of the two channels interconnected internally because of a common power supply, and then externally connected together again at the common ground jacks for the interconnects on the (potentially various) sources feeding the unit, ground loops often ran wild. If you ever connected a preamp and power amp together that both suffered from the same affliction, it could drive you insane.

Interestingly, the Fisher 400C I use as my go-to preamp did in fact suffer from BAD hum and ground loop issues as well. Again, nothing that was component failure related. Just a JV understanding of the problem at the time with regards to layout and ground management. That unit required some rather extreme measures to be taken to quiet it down, which I documented over on the Fisher Forum. But that project, like this project, ultimately accomplished its goal as well. One of the most impressive things to me about a sound system, is in fact what you DON'T hear: Turning it on and hearing absolute dead silence before the music starts is a great beginning for things to come.

The 7199s stay for now, but no guarantee that that issue won't be addressed down the road sometime as well!

Dave
 
Sorry Dave. You were talking about the power being used, clipping power, and high power amps.
Does a hi power amp really produce its full power when only 10 wats is being used?
I think I missunderstood what you were saying.
So nevermind what I said.
 
Curing Power Supply Hum -- The Ground Side

The first general step in reducing noise in any amplifier, is to remove unneeded, unused wiring and components. Therefore, all of the wiring to the preamp power sockets should be removed. Doing this however also removes the original heater circuit ground references, so new ones need to be created. That will be discussed later.

As part of this work, both auxiliary AC sockets were also wired to be always on, to eliminate any excess current being drawn through the AC power switch, other than that of the amplifier itself. Another common sense measure now has the two power leads going towards the power switch being twisted (rather than just the leads from the switch itself twisted). This promotes maximum cancellation of the magnetic field surrounding these wires (a "neutral" lead must run forward to power the indicator lamp).

Finally, the wiring to the left channel Phase Switch was also removed as well, to eliminate the switch contacts from being a part of the speaker connections in that channel. The wiring for the two output speaker terminal boards now mirror each other. With that, the power supply ground scheme can now be addressed.

The stock ground scheme used in the AA-30 produces a variety of ground noise, producing not only outright power supply hum, but also some of the ground loop hum as well. For now however, only the power supply portion of the equation will be dealt with.

In stock form, the ground circuit of the AA-30 consists of:

1. The HV winding CT lead going to a tie point (pin #7 of the GZ34), with it going from that point by two separate leads to both the G3 ground eyelet of the left amplifier board, and a ground terminal of the can cap -- whose mounting is isolated from the chassis by use of a phenolic wafer. Also connected at the same can cap ground terminal, is the common output stage cathode bias resistor which serves both channels.

2. From the G1 ground eyelet of the left amplifier board, the ground circuit then travels up to the left gain control, and from the gain control, through the shield of the cable connecting this control to the rear left channel input jack. The shield is connected to the ground terminal of this jack -- whose ground terminal is grounded to the chassis. The left channel Common output terminal is also grounded to this input jack ground terminal.

3. The ground circuit then travels through the chassis, across the treacherous territory occupied by the power transformer and the AC power wiring, over to the rear right channel input jack -- whose ground terminal is also grounded to the chassis. The right channel Common output terminal is grounded to this input jack ground terminal.

4. Also from the right input jack ground terminal, the ground circuit then travels up through the shield of the cable connecting this jack to the right gain control, and from the gain control, down to the G3 ground eyelet on the right amplifier board, completing the ground circuit. The G1 ground eyelet on the right amplifier board is not used, nor is the G2 ground eyelet on either amplifier board.

What a mess this ground circuit is! Granted, since there was no ground lead from the right amplifier board going back to the HV winding CT lead tie point, there is technically no loop closed for a ground loop to form. However, this thinking completely disregards the external ground circuit that will exist when the input interconnects are attached, and act to short the two input jacks together -- external of the chassis connection shorting them together. Since the two input jacks are located on either side of the power transformer, current from the magnetic field of this transformer radiating into the chassis between the two jacks then provides the energy for ground loop hum, and with the interconnects in place, the loop is formed. Together with the high sensitivity of this amplifier, the hum this configuration then creates announces itself quite obnoxiously through highly efficient speakers -- which would be the type of speakers to use for an amplifier of this power level.

To be completely fair, at the time the AA-30 was developed, it was intended to be operating with two SEPARATE mono preamp units (hence, the dual preamp power plugs on the rear apron). While such a configuration would reduce the ground loop noise somewhat (because of the increased resistance in the external ground loop circuit), it would hardly eliminate it. When the unit is then used with a well designed stereo preamplifer -- where the external loop resistance can be quite small, then the noise bares down on you full force, because maximum ground loop current then flows. But I'm getting ahead of myself. At this point, we're only supposed to be dealing with the power supply noise. It does serve to show however, just how convoluted the ground system is on the AA-30 though.

Getting back to the power supply issues this ground configuration causes then, it injects 120 Hz power supply noise into the output stages because their grid return resistors are grounded directly at the HV winding CT lead tie point, while the cathode bias resistor is grounded at the can cap, which is then grounded to the HV winding CT tie point, but only after going through 5 or 6 inches of wire. This wire is carrying the full ripple current of all the caps in the can cap, which then creates a voltage drop across the wire. Since one end of the wire is (effectively) connected to the output tube grids, and the other end to the cathodes, the ripple voltage "signal" developed along this 6 inch wire is then injected into the output tubes. With high Gm tubes being used in the output stage, they have plenty of gain to amplify this signal and produce it as hum in sensitive speakers.

Now granted, the signal is being injected common mode style into the output stages, so that with the push-pull connection, the noise should large cancel -- and it does. Largely. But not completely. So step 1: Remove the ground lead connected to pin 7 of the GZ34 that goes to the G3 eyelet of the left channel amplifier, and connect it to the SAME can cap ground tab where the cathode bias resistor, and the other lead coming from pin 7 of the GZ34 connect to. Problem solved, because now the output stage grid return resistors and cathode bias resistor all connect into the ground system at the exact same place. Therefore, no signal can be developed to be injected into these stages. However, even this doesn't completely solve the problem, because where as the G3 terminal of the left channel amplifier has a lead connecting it (now) directly to the single can cap ground terminal, there is no such lead from the right channel amplifier. IT'S output stage grid return resistors are grounded only by way of the chassis connection between the two input jacks, picking up all that magnetic noise along the way. Granted, that noise too is injected common mode style into the right channel amplifier. But again, it only largely cancels, not completely. So it too becomes more ground hum piled onto this growing heap of overall hum.

The cure for that is more complicated, as it involves isolating the input jacks from their grounded mountings, and creating a new single chassis ground point. Once the input jacks are remounted in an isolated fashion, then:

1. The ground from the right channel gain control can be moved to the G1 ground eyelet -- just like in the left channel, and,

2. A new ground lead can be run from the G3 ground eyelet over to the single can cap ground tab used as a ground collection point -- just like in the left channel, and finally,

3. A new single chassis ground point can be established, connecting the same single can cap ground tab collection point to one place on the chassis.

For the lowest noise configuration, the chassis ground point should be in the dead middle of the chassis, to distribute any ground noise evenly throughout the chassis between the two channels. I chose to use the front rectifier tube socket mounting screw for the common chassis ground point, which proved to be quite successful.

A couple of quick pics:

1. A new lead connects the G3 ground eyelet of the right channel amplifier over to the ground tab of the can cap -- just like in the left channel.

2. Rather than pin 7 of the rectifier tube socket, the single can cap ground tab is now the ground collection point, with pin 7 simply acting to extend the power transformer's HV winding CT lead. Note too the new single point chassis ground at the rectifier tube socket.

Sharp observers may note other changes in these pics as well, which will all be covered over the course of this thread.

The preceding efforts allow a mirror image ground system to be present in both channels, with common mode ground resistance minimized, chassis current flow eliminated, a new single chassis ground point established, and basic common sense measures added along the way. But for all it represents, it is simply a ground work (pun intended), upon which other measures can be built upon, that really put a muzzle on this puppy. They get introduced next time.

Dave
 

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Hiya Dave,

Nice writeup so far.

Kinda limiting working with PCB's I figure.

And I see some definite "Novice" soldering from when this was thrown together back in the 60's

Frannie
 
You're absolutely right Mark -- At this point, the plan was to simply get the bugs worked out, so that when the time comes for moving further forward, I could just concentrate on moving forward, rather than that plus dragging the baggage the amp came with in stock form. Ultimately, the boards will have to go. I don't think anybody has offered a high quality replacement board, have they? Hard wired aluminum boards may be the only option for moving forward........

Dave
 
Dave, why do you suppose Heathkit , which sold thousands of kits, did not work out the "bugs" more thoroughly. It seems to me that with a somewhat cavalier attitude towards their grounding scheme the full potential of the otherwise excellent components have been compromised. Being a collector of tube audio for about 20 years I have run across a fair number of kit builds that were hardly used and probably abandoned because of a mistake in the initial build or poor performance as in your stock unit. Perhaps, the end of the golden age of tube audio was in part due to manufacturers like Heathkit not realizing that the customer deserved better engineering than a newly introduced model. Have a good time with your project and l admire your dedication and thoroughness in documenting it! Cheers, primo
 
Hiya,

Could be limited resources or available talent.

Another thought is that Heathkit was pretty much cloning these circuits. So perhaps they intentionally scaled back things to avoid lawsuits or whatever.

But if you look at some of the styling of quite a lot of Heathkit enclosures you would be shaking your head at some of that "Weird/Oddball" as well.

Frannie
 
Dave, why do you suppose Heathkit , which sold thousands of kits, did not work out the "bugs" more thoroughly. It seems to me that with a somewhat cavalier attitude towards their grounding scheme the full potential of the otherwise excellent components have been compromised. Being a collector of tube audio for about 20 years I have run across a fair number of kit builds that were hardly used and probably abandoned because of a mistake in the initial build or poor performance as in your stock unit. Perhaps, the end of the golden age of tube audio was in part due to manufacturers like Heathkit not realizing that the customer deserved better engineering than a newly introduced model. Have a good time with your project and l admire your dedication and thoroughness in documenting it! Cheers, primo

I never NEVER assume that large corps "must know". In fact mistakes are
made in every organisation, and the large ones seems often slip the worst
mistakes between their finger. Just look at the microsoft example.
 
It would be interesting to know if there was more of an acceptance of hum back in the pre-SS days. Thinking of the amp hum audible at the start of early Beatles recordings for example.

But, back to Dave's interesting write-up.

For reference, here's the link to the Heathkit schematics from Kevin Chant. http://www.kevinchant.com/heathkit1.html. The schematic is in the first row.
 
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GE turned out AA-5 radios with the same paper circuit boards that carbonized ,and other companies also . HeathKits were designed to a price-point and to be simple enough that the average person could assemble them most of the time .
 
I never NEVER assume that large corps "must know". In fact mistakes are
made in every organisation, and the large ones seems often slip the worst
mistakes between their finger. Just look at the microsoft example.

Mmmmm ... without IBM's ineptitude ~30 years ago, Microsoft today would just be a lump in a bowl of lumpy porridge. Check out a book called Big Blue.

Darn, I just sold my AA-13 last week due to an excessive amount of EL84 amps. :tears: But it shall be replaced with a Sherwood S-1000ii PPP EL84! :D
 
That grounding scheme does sound like a real Charlie Foxtrot. Good grounding seems to be something many amps didn't do so well about, but its so very important as I am learning.
 
Not truly off topic. Does the different transformer in the AA-13 give it any sonic advantages or disadvantages over all the other heathkit units listed? Thanks Norm
 
I've never heard one, but I doubt it. It's simply wound with dual primary windings to allow for dual voltage operation. In such cases, each primary winding is wound for 120 volt operation, but the windings are wound with a thinner gauge wire that is appropriate for the current draw needs of 240 volt operation when the winding are connected in series. When they are paralleled for 120 vac operation, the two windings together represent basically the same capability as that of one 120 vac winding made up of larger wire.

Dave
 
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