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A nice 2220 becomes a great 2220 !

According to one source, the 2220 was made from 1973 to 1974 and the 2220B was 1974 to 1977. That probably explains why there might be more B's. I think the 2220B is quite different, but I have never heard anything but good things about both of them.
 
Bert 1100 said:
I think they are quite different. From memory the "B" is not cap coupled. (what do you call a non cap-coupled amp ??)
From the photos the board layout is also different...so more likely it is an entirely different animal. I never had a 2220B, but it looks like they are more common ?
Click to expand...
Bipolar? :dunno:
 
I think it's "direct coupled" or "DC" , maybe someone can correct us ??
And yes, the 2220B looks like it is built just as well, and it looks like it's even easier to work on, all but one board are accessible directly from both sides.
This is a nice site with details on a lot of vintage Marantz, here a link to the 2220B
2220B details
 
The only thing to watch out for on 2220B is the relay type. Some have a relay that is unobtainable. Others use a standard relay that can be replaced with available Omron options. Lots of threads on the subject. Otherwise easy to work on. I just did a tuneup on one and rebuilt the power supply. Nice easy access.
 
Yeah, I really wont be able to determine the type of relay unless I can get a Seller to take an inside photo, which I may try to do and share with you guys. Congrats again Burt1100 on a job well done. (don't forget to try some of that Ray Brown!)
 
LFazio51 said:
I really wont be able to determine the type of relay unless I can get a Seller to take an inside photo
Click to expand...

True. Might be worth asking unless it's a super hot deal and you have to pull the trigger quick. The unobtanium one is more opaque/whitish plastic. The other one is standard clear. If you google images for "marantz 2220b relay" you'll see a few examples.
 
OK, since I now have an oscilloscope, I wanted to check on the amp board's clipping balance....it hardly needed any adjustment at all, just a tiny bit :

Before adjustment : the top of the sine wave clips before the bottom.

IMG_2317.jpg


After adjustment : symmetrical clipping top and bottom.


IMG_2318.jpg

Also, the signal strength meter was a bit too bright compared to the scale lights, so I soldered in a 470 ohm resistor in serie with that led, inside the shrink wrap you can see :

IMG_2319.jpg


At first I had found the highest frequencies a bit strong, now it sounds pretty perfect to me, very nicely balanced, detailed, with nice punchy bass :music:
 
I made another small mod, it looks better to me like this...

Can you see what this mod is? what is not normal in this photo ? we'll see who works it out....it's not hard for those who know these receivers....

IMG_2379.jpg

I had my (restored) 1060 playing for a couple of weeks, and yesterday I put the 2220 back in rotation, and immediately I thought, WOW, this thing is really really good....maybe better than my 1060 :crazy: ?
 
The dial pointer was yellow(ish) from the start, now it's a warm white led. That is not the mod I was talking about....
And no, the case is still the original vinyl "wood", it's just in the shadow....
Hint : when is the pointer usually on ?
 
Yes, I thought it looks nicer when the pointer is on....so since it's now a led and I expect it to last very very long, why not....of course not "as originally intended" but....:D
It's very easily reversible anyway !
 
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