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A Reason to NOT Epoxy Knobs

M

MyHeresyIsMe

Well-Known Member
A follow-up as to why knobs are tough to remove: the person who owned my newly-acquired Luxman R-1050 had some work done on it some time. I know this by seeing spliced wires. That's not so bad. What IS bad is, knobs were put on with epoxy. I needed to put in new lamps, so I gave a tug on the knobs to get the faceplate off, then a very strong tug, then I made sure there were no set screws (this is not my first time to work on an R-1050, 1040 or 1070, but I wanted to make sure). When I gave the rotary speaker selector knob a very strong pull, the shaft of the switch came out with the innards of the knob epoxied on the shaft. Now, the selector switch is destroyed. Epoxy???? Why would somebody put epoxy on a split shaft? I don't know. But I am throwing a pity-party for myself. I need to find another selector switch, but the real question is, how am I going to get the rest of the knobs off??? They are all on with the same 'stubborness' (epoxy).
 
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That sucks! If I have loose knobs I try tweaking the shaft, then a wrap of tape, and then as a last resort rubber cement (it hold the knob on but will come off if pulled). I've had a piece or two with epoxied knobs, it's a disaster.
 
I worked as a Tech at a tv/audio shop during the 70-80's, and had a saying there was a special place in hades for those who glue knobs on.

The only real chance you have is if they are metal knobs, and you can heat them. If you can get to 150f or above most epoxies will soften. Then get behind them with 2 teaspoons masking taped on the back and apply steady pressure.

If they are plastic, the only option is to apply heat to the shaft where it enters the knob. A soldering iron is the best bet if you have room to get it in without doing melting damage to front panel components (dial cords "pop" instantly).You also are taking a chance on damaging the pots, but in my experience, they usually survive.

The last, and sadly to say most like likely path, is to remove the knobs by drilling thru the center to the shaft, then splitting the knob with a set of heavy dykes. Find all new knobs, or retrofit with a matching set of aftermarket ones.

It's truly a shame someone set the timebomb in such a nice piece of gear. Hope he finds his seat down there.
Good luck.
 
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Hades, and some other words, crossed my mind and a few crossed my lips when I realized what I was working with. I thank you both, RossW & Scott594 for the comiserating. These stock knobs are plastic. I just got this unit last week and was delighted to see how 'clean' and 'original' (to quote the ad) it looked. He tip me off by writing in his ad, 'knobs seem impossible to remove if that's important.' Yes, that's important if you want to get inside an R-1050. But I've seen that knobs are a little tight but they are not "impossible" to remove. No returns, BTW. Okay, I've learned on that transaction. But the tuner is perfect, the amp sounds new, but now I'm in a difficult position. I COULD just make the right connections for one set of speakers and the headphones, but for the price a nice example of that period was expected.
The guy's gotta be on 'pre-heat' after epoxing plastic knobs!! Who would have thought.....
 
Holy sh!t that sucks. WTF is wrong with people? What material are the knobs and shafts? If both are metal, maybe a quick freeze of the shaft with canned air and a tap with a small hammer might crack the bond?
 
I'm going to look at the 1050 cadaver again and see what can possibly be done. The faceplate just can't be removed without taking the knobs off. The rotary speaker selector switch broke apart (that's 40 year old fiberboard) when I pulled the shaft out. Oy.
 
Sadly you might be screwea. I saw your post the other day and was happy for you. At least flame the bastard if you bought it off eBay. Paypal might have something to say about those terms and conditions because it was a misrepresent6ation. If you're truely stuck with it, cut the knobs off and replace them with something similar. Those Luxman receivers are so sweet, it might be worth saving.
 
I have a 2235B with a push button switch that was sheared off. Thanks to the generosity of a fellow AK member I have a replacement knob to attach. I've been mulling over how to attach it! Due to the design of the face plate using epoxy is not an issue - the through hole for the switch is large enough to remove the plate. This may be a situation where using epoxy isn't a bad thing.

Thoughts?
 
What is easier to find , new knobs or selector switches and pots? Cut the plastic knobs off.:scratch2:

John.:music::D
 
elcoholic said:
Sadly you might be screwea. I saw your post the other day and was happy for you. At least flame the bastard if you bought it off eBay. Paypal might have something to say about those terms and conditions because it was a misrepresent6ation. If you're truely stuck with it, cut the knobs off and replace them with something similar. Those Luxman receivers are so sweet, it might be worth saving.
Click to expand...

I don't understand why you say there was misrepresentation. The seller even mentioned that he was unable to remove the knobs.
 
I'm scratching my head about this one, jleon92f....that's a good question you have posed. The problem with cutting off the knobs is, they are recessed into the faceplate just enough so getting TO the epoxy job (or, in my case, a whack job) that is going to be a tough one. I've been looking through different websites for the right rotary selector switch but haven't found one yet (I'm sure there's one out there). In my radical thoughts, I've thought of just selling it as a basket case, take the loss, and find another. I'm keep myself out of mischief though and try to be patient. Hmmmmm....
 
adam-ads, allow me to jump in: you're right. He stated it in the ad --- the knobs were impossible to get off. I can't go back to him. I just have to take the knocks and figure what to do from here. It was a sweet sounding unit!
 
You might be able to get a 1050 with some burnt innards cheap and combine for for a working unit. Bummer.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
 
Good idea, mr light. I've been rummaging around on the bay; there's one 1040, but that's not it. I'll keep looking! I'll check the local Goodwills, etc......
 
RossW said:
That sucks! If I have loose knobs I try tweaking the shaft...
Click to expand...

I had a knob that was loose once, and when I tried widening the split shaft just a little bit, one of the halves broke off. I had to put the shaft back together with JB Weld. That being said, I wouldn't glue a knob on.

Chris
 
I agree with you, Jibbajaba. Split shafts, especially older one, are in danger of breaking when it needs to be widened. JB Weld is a good choice. These are on to stay, no matter what -- except I used a little extra torque. Dumb on my part.
 
A dremel tool with a flexible shaft and the right bits can undo a lot of mistakes. It will reach into very small places and cut or grind through plastic knobs with ease.
 
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