• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

A way to use screw terminal caps where solder terminals originally were.

mrk229

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
While working on several amps lately I have come up with a nice way to adapt screw terminal filter caps where solder tab caps were originally used. I have not seen this method but it may not be new?

I was recently refurbishing two sets of Kenwood L-05M monoblocks and came up with the following method.

On the first pair I used a method I found here. Using a drill remove the solder tabs from the old caps and screw them to the new ones. This works but bending the tabs to line up the new caps with the holes and mounting brackets was not easy and left the tabs a bit shorter than I would have liked. In the end it turned out OK.

For the second set I thought there might be a better, faster, easier way. Using a piece of solid 14 gauge copper wire from household Romex. I wrapped it around the screw and pinched it together with needle nose pliers so it will not squeeze out from under the screw when you tighten it. I found it best to put the lock washer between the cap and the wire, that way the wire does not spin while you tighten the screw.

cap1.jpg

Once the screws were tight I formed the wires into the needed position and then using a small hammer and the anvil on the back of my vise flattened the wires into a terminal shape with a thickness that would go through the hole in the circuit board.

cap2.jpg
cap3.jpg
After that is was very easy to thread them into place with the long tails.

cap4.jpg

They are not as wide as the terminals that were on the original caps but they make a solid connection.
(One thought is perhaps 12 gauge solid wire once flattened would produce a wider tab?)

Tighten the clamps to secure them in the desired position then snip off the tails and solder in place.

cap5.jpg

Sorry the last picture is not so great but you get the idea.

It is much faster and easier than using a drill to remove and reuse the old terminals.

So there you have it, perhaps an original take on a problem we are facing more and more as solder tab filter caps are getting harder to find or are very pricey compared to many screw terminal options.

A shout out for United Chemi-Con caps for this use. The ones I order come with screws and lock washers.
And I find they are relatively inexpensive at this point in time. And they work great.

Cheers
 
Register to hide this ad
If you search Digi-Key or Mouser for solder tabs you’ll find that they are very similar to what you’re making.
I did think of that but could not find any that I thought were long enough by the time you bend them over and up for correct location.

7310.jpg

From hole center to hole center it is only .625 inches. Keystone 7310. Might buy a few on my next order and see.
 
Look like that'll work. Could you have used insulated or uninsulated ring terminals on the caps, with a few inches of wire on them?
 
The size can definitely be an issue. It works be nice if they made bigger sized tabs.
The last amp I replaced the filters on I was thinking I’d using solid core wire as you did but I had enough room for the solder tabs.
 

Attachments

  • D89A8120-0F64-4932-8247-35BD6F483A6D.jpeg
    D89A8120-0F64-4932-8247-35BD6F483A6D.jpeg
    91 KB · Views: 29
The size can definitely be an issue. It works be nice if they made bigger sized tabs.
The last amp I replaced the filters on I was thinking I’d using solid core wire as you did but I had enough room for the solder tabs.
Yep perfect use for them there.
 
Look like that'll work. Could you have used insulated or uninsulated ring terminals on the caps, with a few inches of wire on them?
I don't think you could easily bend a ring terminal back over the screw. I suppose you could bend it straight up and then bend the wires over to the correct position? That would make the cap a little longer than my solution.

For my needs, the caps could not be repositioned at all so the wires had to be put in the correct place to fit through the circuit board and in the clamp.
 
I think that's a great solution. Failure points at an absolute minimum.
Ya, I like mechanical connections.
 
I don't think you could easily bend a ring terminal back over the screw. I suppose you could bend it straight up and then bend the wires over to the correct position? That would make the cap a little longer than my solution.

For my needs, the caps could not be repositioned at all so the wires had to be put in the correct place to fit through the circuit board and in the clamp.

I was thinking stranded/flexible wire but, admittedly, I don't know the small details of this particular refit.
 
Back
Top Bottom