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A2801 Soundcraftsmen's seemingly rare power amp

Schmidlapper

Super Member
Update: Recap info with my BOM is added now, starting in posts #14. My unit is heavily modified, but the amp section follows original schematic so is applicable to a stock unit.

I'm presently in the research phase of recaping my 1984 A2801 power amp and I cannot believe how obscure this thing is on the web. I mean it is as if some powerful entity wanted to erase all traces of its existence. After looking and spending money on whole sets of Soundcraftsmen schematics I came up with zilch. So desperately one day I thought since the A2502 was similar in size and output it might teach me something by looking at its schematic, and low and behold there it was, a few reference notes on the A2801 variations. They didn't even list it under the models covered by the drawing. So I now have my correct schematic, but with it I gained an issue, the rail voltage shown is + and - 68 volts, seven amp models all sharing one circuit, all having various output wattages share the same rail voltage. I believe my A2801 to be 125 watts per channel into 8 ohms, but I have also seen 140 watts listed for it as well. Here in lays my problem with the schematic, you see my rail voltage is + and - 49 volts, not the 68 volts shown. Now I am left to wonder, is my amp wrong in some way, or do the schematics fail to show multiple rail voltages for the various power outputs? Then of course there are all sorts of contributing factors to make me question the amp, there is the sticker that says it is wired for 240 volts from the factory, but it came new with a 120 volt style power plug and also the two primary windings are wired in the expected parallel configuration, add to this many claim that this sticker was just a mistake Soundcraftsmen made for many models sent to be sold at the overseas PXs. Then there is the fact that in the mid 1990s I in a fit of modding madness converted this unit to have a seperate power supply chassis, could I have introduced a wiring error? Also the newly found schematics do show 68 volts from the power supply circuit which then magically become 70 volts at the amp section, so factory mistakes are a possibility. Then there is the whole lack of any technical discussion on this model of amp. This last part is why I am actually documenting my data research, it is my hope that I can put it on here to help a bit. This amp seems to work and sound fine, yet I now have this documented voltage disparity to account for, ignorance was so bliss. Does anyone with a A2801, know or care to measure what the rail voltage of yours is for the sake of audio archeology and to help me untwist my mystery? For that matter anyone with an A2502, MA5501, MA5502, or MA2502 who knows those rail voltages can chime in for even more data points. My greatest fear is this will just be sucked into that data black hole too.

UPDATE: +-70V is correct as stated on schematic. I was confused by my own measurement technic error, my unit is modified into two chassis, not normal.

Bill Smith
 
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I know it sounds like a total PITA (which it is, but you appear to be on a mission) is to go component by component to see what is actually in your amp vs what is documented in your schematic. Just make copies of the schematic and notate what (if any) differences you find. I have had to do this for other gear where changes were made on-the-fly during the production run, and components on the board did not match the schematic/service manual (and service updates are often "unobtanium").
 
If you do not have the correct rail voltages it could be in order of probability
you have it wired wrong or broken wires
the full wave rectifier is bad
the filter caps are bad
 
OK Ok photos. Well, some previously taken photos of the insides of both chassis. The AC wiring is now twisted properly and routed better. I have also removed guessed at snubber and bypass caps I added previously and have a Quasimodo snubber jig ordered which I intend to use it to calculate the correct snubbers for this transformer. Amp has been in use as depicted for over twenty years. I am presently wanting to recap the few electrolytic caps and as I said install some correctly calculated snubbers across the tranny secondaries.

IMG_1208_zpsrssd1xtw.jpg


IMG_1212_zpsrq3p19hb.jpg

the one DC line is removed from bridge rectifier in photo on purpose.

IMG_1215_zpsb5z5fcik.jpg
 
One possibility for an anomilly is in the manner in which I measured the rails. Because I have two chassis wired together with a quick disconnect, the filter caps are mounted in the original chassis and when I measured the DC I was only measuring straight off the rectifier with no filter caps or amp section connected in circuit. Would that give a inaccurate result?
 
Ok, I figured that my laziness might be a contributing factor too. I can pull the power supply section relatively easily, but the amp section not so much. I will recheck with everything connected and report back, first I'm listening to some Blue Oyster Cult awhile. I have all the electrolytics physically measured for replacement purchasing and documented for others benefit. There are only five per side and then the two big filter caps.
 
yup you need the filter caps in circuit

BINGO!, in circuit rails measure +70.8 & - 70.8 VDC. Thanks.

I should probably create a new clean post for the recap data and measurements. Yes?

Photo Candy; amp with my newly aquired PRO PT Two Pre-ceiver that I picked up two days ago for $10 at an outdoor flea market. The case top is pretty groady with rust and the notorious edge paint chips, but the inside is clean as a whistle. I just cleaned it up and fader lubed the pots, It sounds just as good if not better than my older (recapped)DX3000, all feeding into a pair of Klipsch Chorus II speakers.

IMG_1222_zpspfzlzjtz.jpg
 
This amp is similar to the A2502 it is a MOSFET based amp.
Here is a schematic

View attachment 804896

This is the schematic for the A2801 as well, even though not referenced in the model list. If you look at the input section and the output section of amp drawing, also the table of resistor configurations by model, there the A2801 is included, very subtlety. The 2801 has the same amp section as the 2502, 5501, 5502, just less bells and whistles.
 
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There are 12 electrolytics total used in the A2801, the ones with dimentions in the table below. I will upload a Mouser BOM of elecrtrolytics once I confirm my selections do in fact fit well.
IMG_0296.JPG
 
A2801 Stats (taken from HiFiengine)
Power Output

125W into 8Ω (stereo)
Frequency Response
20Hz to 20kHz
Distortion
0.02%
Speaker Impedance
2Ω (minimum)
Dimensions
19 x 12 x 5.25"

Same as the A2502, RA5501, RA5502 and others listed on schematic.
 
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Update: I've rebuilt the power supply chassis (pictured), first by calculating and installing a pair of CRC snubbers across the secondary's, I also replaced the 25 watt bridge with a 35 watt Fairchild unit. As for the amp section, I star grounded it and replaced the main filter caps with a pair of Nichicon 15,000uF, 100v ones. Noise floor has dropped tremendously with these changes. I have the remaining 10 electrolytics to replace and I have matched two pairs of replacement transistors for the differential input pairs to lower the D.C. offset.
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The old soldiers. Interestingly the one bipolar 25 uF input cap's ESR was 140 ohms the other was 15 ohms. The others ran anywhere from 2 to 36 ohms each. All my new caps fit great. The matched replacement ZTX694B input transistors got me = 38mV D.C. offset on both channels, previously it was 58mV and 38mV respectively. The amp is very quiet now even with head against 103dB sensative speakers and the stereo imaging is fantastic. I am super happy with the results of all these changes. I'll post my Mouser cap parts list next, list should work for any amp listed on schematic.
IMG_1344.JPG
 
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