Anyone know what woofers were used in the 910. mine have a number on the back 3076 and say 8ohm but no ads sticker. Just wondering if these are the correct woofers and that i'm getting the full ads sound. I think these are the older 910's but not sure. There is no L on the label in back. these are a 4ohm speaker, plus I bought them off CL. I couldn't find anything listed for the 910 on the reference site. Any help would be great.
ads 910 woofer id
- Thread starter jcbatt
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DENNYDOG
Addicted Member
The codes on the back of my woofers are 0377 ink stamped on the magnet with an ADS 206 1313 sticker on the magnet also. They also have a circled 5 and 8 ohm ink stamp on the magnet.
These woofers are for the newer 910's with 1" tweeter. Yours may be for the older model with the 3/4" tweeter. The newer models have a rounder dust cap on the woofer than the earlier version woofers that are flatter.
Hope this helps.
Denny
These woofers are for the newer 910's with 1" tweeter. Yours may be for the older model with the 3/4" tweeter. The newer models have a rounder dust cap on the woofer than the earlier version woofers that are flatter.
Hope this helps.
Denny
thanks for the help. I think they might be ads woofs. I thought ads baskets were a little heavier and these seem a little cheap. Everything sounds good though. Here are some pics. Also I was wondering where to find knobs for the stands, I made the stands and haven't been able to find a knob big enough with 3/8 threaded rod.
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DENNYDOG
Addicted Member
Those are the right woofers. As far as I know they made two different versions as I mentioned before. Yours are the early version. You can tell by the flatter dust cap.
As far as the knobs go you will just have to keep looking around. I had made an extra set of stands and looked for similar knobs but came up empty. The ones I found with the 3/8" bolt had a much smaller knob. There are plastic molding kits you can buy if you want a little project for yourself.
As far as the knobs go you will just have to keep looking around. I had made an extra set of stands and looked for similar knobs but came up empty. The ones I found with the 3/8" bolt had a much smaller knob. There are plastic molding kits you can buy if you want a little project for yourself.
Cool, thats good to know. I might have to try that mold kit out, I love projects. Thanks for the info Dennydog. Have you ever messed with the crossovers? Wondering if rebuilding them would be worth it. I listen to mostly CD's and some music sounds killer and others not so much, but I guess its partly due to the recording.
thedelihaus
Nocturnal transmissions
Some a/d/s/ use stamped basket drivers, some did feature heavier cast baskets.
Though I prefer cast baskets for drivers, don't fret- many brands used stamped baskets and the drivers are just fine, both in performance and in sound.
If you're hearing that some recordings are sounding great while others are sounding mediocre, my honest guest here is that the speakers are being very revealing- that means anicely done record or cd will sound great, while a poorly mastered recording is going to have it's warts exposed with a speaker of good caliber.
A lesser speaker may not be as revealing, may be more forgiving of poor records, per a less defined, more colored presentation.
Though I prefer cast baskets for drivers, don't fret- many brands used stamped baskets and the drivers are just fine, both in performance and in sound.
If you're hearing that some recordings are sounding great while others are sounding mediocre, my honest guest here is that the speakers are being very revealing- that means anicely done record or cd will sound great, while a poorly mastered recording is going to have it's warts exposed with a speaker of good caliber.
A lesser speaker may not be as revealing, may be more forgiving of poor records, per a less defined, more colored presentation.
DENNYDOG
Addicted Member
I would have to agree with you on that. But I find that with pretty much every speaker I have tried. Sometimes you find a speaker that is killer on good recordings but REALLY sounds bad with poor recordings. That's just the way it goes in audio.
EDIT: ^^What Paul said^^
I haven't done anything with my crossovers but Lux Man recapped his 910's. I don't think he ever started a thread on it. Not sure about the brand caps he used. He is in the electronics industry and was able to get some super expensive caps for literally nothing. He said they made a huge difference.
If you mind not having the knobs you could use some button head cap screws. I think they would look pretty nice also.
EDIT: ^^What Paul said^^
I haven't done anything with my crossovers but Lux Man recapped his 910's. I don't think he ever started a thread on it. Not sure about the brand caps he used. He is in the electronics industry and was able to get some super expensive caps for literally nothing. He said they made a huge difference.
If you mind not having the knobs you could use some button head cap screws. I think they would look pretty nice also.
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JCBatt,
As DennyDog said I have replaced the 4.7uf caps for both the midrange and the tweeters. I used a Polyproplene and foil cap from Electrocube, the 950 series if you want to look up their specs.
We did a blind test after changing just one spkr. out and the most noticeable was the mid-range became more forward. I believe it was an improvement but it's just my opinion in what I like in a speaker, which leans toward a true studio monitor.
I have also passively bi-amped them and actively bi-amped them, both were improvements. With that said however it depends upon what you have available for amplifiers. I have since gone back to a single amp but that is because it offers a lot more as a single amp than the amps I was using for bi-amping. For instance I had used a Mitubishi DA-A10 for the mid/tweeters and a NAD 216 for the woofers. I also traded in and out a Pioneer SX1010 and a Son of Ampzilla for the high HZ. None of those combination's could match what I have now using a Carver Signature 600 in a single amp configuration. However I have fantasized about going back to actively bi-amped using a sweet tube amp for the high-end but my wallet has said no.
As DennyDog said I have replaced the 4.7uf caps for both the midrange and the tweeters. I used a Polyproplene and foil cap from Electrocube, the 950 series if you want to look up their specs.
We did a blind test after changing just one spkr. out and the most noticeable was the mid-range became more forward. I believe it was an improvement but it's just my opinion in what I like in a speaker, which leans toward a true studio monitor.
I have also passively bi-amped them and actively bi-amped them, both were improvements. With that said however it depends upon what you have available for amplifiers. I have since gone back to a single amp but that is because it offers a lot more as a single amp than the amps I was using for bi-amping. For instance I had used a Mitubishi DA-A10 for the mid/tweeters and a NAD 216 for the woofers. I also traded in and out a Pioneer SX1010 and a Son of Ampzilla for the high HZ. None of those combination's could match what I have now using a Carver Signature 600 in a single amp configuration. However I have fantasized about going back to actively bi-amped using a sweet tube amp for the high-end but my wallet has said no.
roy55
Active Member
ads 910
I also have a pair of early 910s, they are stamped the same as yours 3076
8ohm.
I also have a pair of early 910s, they are stamped the same as yours 3076
8ohm.
Awesome! I like a foward mid also. Had some 810's that were great in the mid. Might try to recapp these, but seems a little scary, dont want to screw up the boards. These 910's are very revealing and yes, you can tell a good recording from a bad...need to get a record player! lol