It would work, but it's not optimal.
The Advent 13uF Capacitor has a tolerance of +/- 20%, that means it could be theoretically anywhere between 15.6uF to 10.4uF.
In reality they will be much closer to nominal than that, but that tolerance band is a typical of NPE Caps.
I'm guessing the metalized polypropylene cap you are looking at is +/- 5%, the 12uF would be between 12.6uF to 11.4uF - again it should be closer to nominal.
When I did my Prodigies, I had the same issue.
I purchased a 12uF and a 1uF and wired them in parallel.
A couple of 1uF Daytons will be very inexpensive.
The thought behind this is the closer you get to the design intent, the better they'll sound.
BTW, Poly caps take some time to break in.
You'll notice that after playing for 3 hours, they will sound better.
I often leave my speaker recaps running overnight (at very small volumes).
The idea is to allow the cap to charge and discharge - it doesn't need a lot of volume as the caps are often rated at 250, 400, or 600 volts and you'll never come up to those voltages (Film caps are rated much higher than the NPEs which are often 50 or 100 volts).