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advice on advent 1002 wiring issue

the ostrich

the ostrich

New Member
i've had a pair of advent 1002 for about 6 years now and haven't had any issues with them. however, after my most recent move, one of the woofers has been on the fritz. i noticed that it wasn't receiving any power unless light pressure was applied to the cone. i took the woofer out of the housing, and found that the issue was with the wiring. if i lightly touched the tinsel wire, the woofer would work fine, but as soon as i stopped touching it, the woofer stopped working. the connections and wiring look fine, but i can supply pictures if that would help.

here's a video of the speaker in action:


what steps should i take to remedy the issue? and a secondary question: is it worth trying to track down the original tweeters/woofers? (i knew the tweeters weren't stock, but i was informed by reddit that the woofers weren't either—i guess that's what happens when you buy from goodwill) they sound fine to me, but i am by no means an expert at this.

any help at all would be appreciated, these speakers are wonderful and i've got a pair of matching legacy ii's (bought from a college floormate for $20 lol), so i would hate for one of them to conk out on me.
 
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You need to find out exactly where the break is in the tinsel wire. Most likely, it is either at the cone where it joins with the VC leads or at the terminals. You will need to clean the suspect joint and resolder. Soldering tinsel is difficult because if you apply heat for too long, the solder will wick into the tinsel, making it solid instead of flexible.
 
the ostrich said:
how do i go about finding that break? just by close examination?
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Visual examination is the first step.

Then you need a meter or continuity tester to confirm where continuity is lost through the tinsel and/or its terminal ends. I would clip one lead from the tester to one of the driver terminals. Then starting at the other driver terminal work your way to the VC by touching various points. Move the cone to see if you can break the connection when testing. You will be measuring the VC dc resistance when there is continuity. It will go to infinity when you have the break between your leads.
 
RTally said:
Visual examination is the first step.

Then you need a meter or continuity tester to confirm where continuity is lost through the tinsel and/or its terminal ends. I would clip one lead from the tester to one of the driver terminals. Then starting at the other driver terminal work your way to the VC by touching various points. Move the cone to see if you can break the connection when testing. You will be measuring the VC dc resistance when there is continuity. It will go to infinity when you have the break between your leads.
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perfect, thanks for the advice! i'll dig into it this weekend and find out if it's an easy fix.
 
i've been digging around to see if i can find anything on the quality of the replacement woofers in my set; does anyone know anything about Realistic 40-1011A? all i can find online is that they were radioshack's generic replacement 6.5" woofer back in the day.
 
the ostrich said:
i've been digging around to see if i can find anything on the quality of the replacement woofers in my set; does anyone know anything about Realistic 40-1011A? all i can find online is that they were radioshack's generic replacement 6.5" woofer back in the day.
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You don't have the original woofers? Those are, as F1nut noted, frankenspeakers. Without the original woofers, they most likely do not sound as good as they could.

They are not really worth restoring unless they have sentimental value or your have multiple pairs to cannibalize. In good shape, those speakers are not worth much. I bought a pair of Baby III for $20, refoamed and recapped them, and was lucky to sell them for what I had in them.

You can most likely find better for less than the cost to properly restore those speaker. Put your location in your profile and I am sure someone around here can give you some suggestions for upgrading.
 
the ostrich said:
gotcha. one more question: what's the main difference between baby i's and baby ii's? i know the tweeters are different, but what's the resulting difference in sound? is there one that's generally preferred over the other?
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According to....
analog addict said:
If you ever run across a set of inexpensive Baby Advent I's, grab them. They tend to be a little higher on the food chain, since the cone tweeter is not as fragile, but still excellent sounding....
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Use the search box at the top right to search the Speakers forum for "Baby Advent" (including the quotes) and you can read all about AKers impressions of them. :thumbsup:
 
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