bigx5murf
Super Member
If you can read impedance with a multi meter, but the cone is locked in place and won't move, the magnet has shifted. Or simply the cone rubs when moving.
Advice on Fixin' New to Me EPI 100s
- Thread starter JJCalvillo
- Start date
If you can read impedance with a multi meter, but the cone is locked in place and won't move, the magnet has shifted. Or simply the cone rubs when moving.
Re-foamed using signal generator. Think everything went really well. Didn't hear anything concerning.
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Also, where is the 10uf cap supposed to be in the scheme of things?
It's the second (lower) diagram here. So though I'd have expected the cap to be on the positive side to the tweeter, I guess this is alright?
http://www.humanspeakers.com/e/epi100.htm
It's the second (lower) diagram here. So though I'd have expected the cap to be on the positive side to the tweeter, I guess this is alright?
http://www.humanspeakers.com/e/epi100.htm
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Good first listen with the exception of the pop when I turned the power off on the Marantz 2215B.
Since music is basically a complex AC signal, it doesn't actually matter which side of the driver that cap is on. Sounds weird but it works. If there were other components in the crossover it might matter which comes 'first' but in this case it apparently doesn't.
Really lovin' these speakers.
Thanks to all for your good advice!
Thanks especially to Onward James for his sending me the "missing woofer" and good advice.
Will be ordering some new caps and maybe some better binding posts to get these up to speed. In the meantime, the EPIs are rocking me with Radiohead's "Weird Fishes" .
Thanks to all for your good advice!
Thanks especially to Onward James for his sending me the "missing woofer" and good advice.
Will be ordering some new caps and maybe some better binding posts to get these up to speed. In the meantime, the EPIs are rocking me with Radiohead's "Weird Fishes" .
Listening happily to these, but thinking about a couple of upgrades.
• First, not an upgrade, but one woofer has a gasket between the frame and the cabinet, and the other is gasket-less. Occasionally, that naked woofer sounds a little rough. I re-foamed while playing a 50hz tone so I don't think it's the voice coil rubbing, and it's pretty infrequent. Could it be the absence of the gasket? Going to put one on, what does everyone use for replacement gaskets?
• Going to replace the caps. The old ones don't look bad, but if they are the originals it's probably time. Thinking of these.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pmpc-10-10uf-250v-precision-audio-capacitor--027-244
• Also thinking of replacing the binding posts so I can use plugs. Good idea, and if so what posts would you use?
The Rebel
Active Member
These usually had thin black foam gaskets to seal them to the cabinets. I've used laminate flooring underlayment for gaskets in the past that seemed to work fine. Another thing you can use is a thin sting of rope caulk near the inner edge of the woofer frame to seal inside the perimeter of the screws.
On the funny sound from the woofer, these do need to be sealed well to work properly. Another thing, did you check the motion of the woofer on the bench to check for VC rub before you installed them?
BTW, nice looking 100s, what surrounds did you end up using on the woofers? I saw Boston Acoustics filled fillet surrounds mentioned in this thread, did you use them?
On the funny sound from the woofer, these do need to be sealed well to work properly. Another thing, did you check the motion of the woofer on the bench to check for VC rub before you installed them?
BTW, nice looking 100s, what surrounds did you end up using on the woofers? I saw Boston Acoustics filled fillet surrounds mentioned in this thread, did you use them?
I would go right to human speakers and pick up the back plate and crossovers as one unit, already built. I installed these in my pair of M100's and they're perfect. Pretty cheap at $32.00
http://www.humanspeakers.com/e/parts/004a.htm
You have those looking very nice. No doubt they sound great as well.
Didn't use the filleted surrounds. Got some for the 8" EPI from Simply Speakers and put them on while I was playing a 50hz tone.
I will look for some flooring foam today. I also have to check the inside of the cabinets again, and may reinforce the edges. I plan on keeping these babies.
If you don't end up getting the whole back plate from Human, PE sells a bunch of different binding posts. I use the ones that have both plugs molded in one plastic piece, gold plate, Dayton, about $3-$5 per speaker IIRC. Nothing fancy but work fine for the vast majority of speakers. 5-way so just about anything will hook up to them.
davidd1067
Fisher Fiend
davidd1067
Fisher Fiend
Hi
I will gladly ship the EPI100 they should look good after a sanding and stain
Thanks
Dave
I will gladly ship the EPI100 they should look good after a sanding and stain
Thanks
Dave
Question for lokerola. The photo of the "crossover" shows the cap soldered to the wire going to the tweeter. Is it a spot of hot glue keeping it attached to the board? I'm thinking I will get the parts, add the posts I like and a 1% tolerance cap and do the upgrade to get the experience. Got some materials left over from my DBT project and could easily make a couple of boards for the binding posts/caps.
I wish I could remember, but I did that upgrade a few years ago. I don’t recall exact how it’s attached.
Maybe other members who have more crossover restore experience can weigh in here? I’m pretty sure hot glue is common when securing caps to boards.