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Advice on Fluke multimeter

cchean

Super Member
I am thinking about buying a Fluke multimeter for my bench. It will be used for basic tasks, such as measuring bias, DC offset, testing semiconductors and so on. I am not a tech, it will be just for hobby. There are several models available but I noticed that models 113, 114, 115, 116 and 117 are all in the same price range. Can anyone point out the main differences and give some advice on those? Thanks.
 
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I use a 115 and love it. Don't know anything about the other models to compare.

Frankly, I didn't know the 115 had a cap checker until about a month ago and know use that feature all the time. I've used a lot of MM over the years and this one is simply tops.
 
I was looking at affordable fluke meters the other day actually. I'd been using a friend of mines Fluke 189 for some work and I thought it was awesome, however extremely out of my price range.

I read some of Echowars' stickys here and he recommended this guy:
http://www.amazon.com/Triplett-9045-Multimeter-Temperature-Capacitance/dp/B001ULFROW

Its $77 versus the $120-$140 of the various Fluke units.

I picked up some $2 cheap multimeters as well, mainly because there where cheap and as EchoWars mentioned have the hFE function.

EchoWars said:
4. Digital Multimeter(s) and Minigrabber Leads
I recommend a least two meters here...a reasonably inexpensive meter, with an hfe measurement function, and a good True-RMS meter.

For the 'inexpensive' meter, a cheap Harbor Freight meter should do (but please stay away from those $3.99 and $4.99 jobs). This one has hfe measurement capability, and while it is not autoranging, which is good for the rookies, using it will force the rookie to understand what he's measuring by making them select the proper range. The problem with cheap meters is that they are easy to destroy by dropping, or by connecting it in Ohms mode to a live circuit (a Fluke will simply not give you a proper reading in this case but remain undamaged, and Fluke meters are designed to take a bit of physical abuse as well). If someone knows a cheap autoranging meter with an hfe function for under $30, let me know.

For the True-RMS meter, right now (11/16/2010), the Fluke 114 or 115 are reasonably priced. If that is too expensive still, take a look at the Triplett 9045. True-RMS, autoranging, capacitance and frequency measurement, and an analog bar graph for under $100.

The point contact leads shipped with most meters is the cause of more blown amps than I care to count here at AK. Tuck them in a drawer somewhere and forget about them. Here are Pomona Minigrabber leads, and this is what you shall use. Digikey PN 501-1060-ND for 48" black, and 501-1061-ND for 48" red. Every meter you own should have a set of these.
 
That is a good deal on the Triplett. There's times I wish I had something to measure temperature. Frequency would be useful too. Nice unit.

EchoWars' comments on the leads is dead right. Get some minigrabbers!
 
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I thought it was a pretty good deal as well. I mean the Fluke 189 I had was amazing but for what I do, the 300-500$ price tag on a used unit was insane. It had some ridiculous ranges as well. Like 50,000 uF or something. Oddly the tripplet unit had a better range in the frequency category.

I also came across this unit and thought it was pretty cool:
http://www.peakelec.co.uk/acatalog/jz_dca55.html

The price wasnt bad either. I havent ordered one yet though.
 
If you're willing to look at used, the classic 8060A is hard to beat. I have one of the blue A/AA versions that were made for IBM, the only maintenance it needed was to have the contacts between the LCD module and the main board cleaned. Be warned, good working 8060As can go for surprising amounts of money. However, you can also find them cheap at estate and garage sales.
 
The price of the Fluke brand is worth it, IMO. I've bought many Asian DMM's (analog too) over the years and my Fluke is still working fine. The others are gone.
If you're just looking for something for hobby work, though, there are other, less expensive meters that will work like this B&K multimeter or this Tenma.
 
About Fluke...my rant. Apologies in advance...

Overall great meters but a while back I bought a 233. Has this cool detachable remote display. Problem is the communication link between the display and meter body is always on, even with the power switch off. So, the batteries drain fairly quickly even if you're not using it. If you don't remember, dead batteries usually puke their guts out, and this corrodes the meter terminals. Wonder how I know this?

Fluke's answer? Remove the batteries or put a piece of paper between the battery contacts. Oh, and you have to do this in the display and in the meter base (two sets of batteries). Oh, but that's not mentioned anywhere in the product literature or Owner's Manual (unless it's been revised by now...lots of complaints on this).

Thanks, Fluke, for that highly technical and convenient solution to your crappy design on an otherwise really cool idea. Because my use of this meter is highly intermittent it is really a PITA to screw around like that. I'm thinking of asking them to replace it with something of similar value that doesn't have this issue.
 
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There have been quite a few military Fluke 27s that have gone for cheap on eBay - look for 27FM or 27/FM.
 
I recently picked up a very nice 27FM. Complete with hardcase, manuals, leads, and the HV probe. Iirc, I don't think I paid more than around $75 total.
 
I have never had any issues with any of the Fluke's that I have/had/do own.
My latest a 289 is quite lovely!:yes:

I use a 112 for daily duties in my tool belt!

And BTW it falls off the top of ladders often!
 
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I'm going to have to agree with everybody, Fluke is worth the pricetag. I until recently used my 73, the original, not the new series, and it still works as well as the day my dad bought it. it doesn't have quite what I'd like for electronics stuff though as its an electricians meter. I just recently got a Fluke 115 and I love that as well. Very nice meter. The other 11* series have different focuses, like I believe the 117 is meant for electricians. It'll work just fine for electronics, as I believe it has only more features, not less, but they are features that aren't really necessary for most light electronics work.
 
Thanks for all replies so far!

After some research I noticed the 117 is more focused on electricians jobs. The 115 seem to be a nice one! But the Amazon deal on the Tripplet is very sweet to ignore... So many choices...
 
That is a good deal on the Triplett. There's times I wish I had something to measure temperature. Frequency would be useful too. Nice unit.

EchoWars' comments on the leads is dead right. Get some minigrabbers!

I could not agree more with Echowars comments too.

Recently, I restored a L-07mII with new caps, pots, etc and when the job was about 90% done, I blew it when one of the contact probes shorted some pins at the PCB and the rest you can already imagine... :sigh:
 
Among the 11x series the 115 is a good choice for audio hobbyist. The 116 is for HVAC work and the 117 is for building electrician. I have the 114 which doesn't measure current is to prevent leaving the meter in current mode and accidentally trying to measure voltage and burn out the meter.
I also have the 189 which is also good for electronic work but it's higher price.
 
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