My Akai GX-625 open reeler has been a very nice, reliable unit for years. After taking it out of storage, it would play but then stop. That would require me to once again push the play button. It would do the same thing. Play for a bit the stop, until finally, the lights illuminating the play, ff, rewind, stop, etc. buttons no longer came on and the buttons won't function. The VU meters are illuminated, but the channel lights are not. After removing the back cover, I discovered a 125 volt 1.25 amp fuse was blown. After replacing it several times, it continues to blow the fuse when powering up. I put a meter on the fuse holder and it measures 25 on the 200 scale. Any idea what's happening here? Thanks!
Akai GX-625 blowing fuse
- Thread starter tijoma
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Sorry to hear about your sick 625. Did it work before storage? Did storing it break the machine? Then look for leaky caps and any leak damage on nearby parts.
The only thing I know that stops this machine on its own is that "auto tension lever" or the auto-stop functions. Look around craigslist, on yelp, on google maps for a techie. It's an easy machine to work on.
To lighten the pain, maybe it's a good time for a cap-transistor upgrade on the pre-amp board. I bought a component kit on ebay that came with detailed instructions. I did the upgrade myself and the machine performs a little better now imo.
The only thing I know that stops this machine on its own is that "auto tension lever" or the auto-stop functions. Look around craigslist, on yelp, on google maps for a techie. It's an easy machine to work on.
To lighten the pain, maybe it's a good time for a cap-transistor upgrade on the pre-amp board. I bought a component kit on ebay that came with detailed instructions. I did the upgrade myself and the machine performs a little better now imo.
It blows out when I push the power button. I watched it while trying to turn it on and there's a bright flash in the fuse, which blows it out. Some kind of surge? Thanks for the service manual tip.
KentTeffeteller
Gimpus Stereophilus!
Yes, that electrolytic is very suspect. Replace it and check the other capacitors while you're at it.
I was wondering about that. Is it standard installation practice?
Which may have gone conductive.
Yes it is normal unfortunately.
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
Many manufacturers glue large caps down, because during shipping, from vibration the caps move back and forth enough that the leads break. Small caps don't have enough mass to cause this problem. The glue can become corrosive over time. If you see component leads or wires with the glue on them and they are green, scrape the glue off. I think it's something in the glue interacting with something in the environment because it doesn't happen on every unit of the same brand and model.
SweetVintage
Active Member
There are 4 recitfiers on that board and in that run of Akais (625, 635D, 266D etc) I have seen a number of the recifiers fail. I typically replace all 4 working or not. Some makes have a diode array in place but those seem to be fine. The case can crack from heat I guess.
One of those rectifiers is in the circuit for your fuse and I would get that one out at least if not all 4.
It is the Black 4 pin inline black package next to your big cap in the pic. The cap is probably fine. (Probably)
One of those rectifiers is in the circuit for your fuse and I would get that one out at least if not all 4.
It is the Black 4 pin inline black package next to your big cap in the pic. The cap is probably fine. (Probably)
qdrone
Music is my mistress
I had a Modwright outboard power source that did the same thing as the OP,when I turned the power on the the fuse would blow. Had it repaired and the part that went bad looked just like this picture. You might be onto something.
SweetVintage
Active Member
I use the 2Amp, 200V version. 10 amp will work but is way overkill and may not fit in the footprint. Here's the Mouser part number i currently have on hand.
583-MDA202G, mouser.com