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Akai GX28xD 7" reel to 10.5" reel conversion

Rickey_H

New Member
Folks,
I recently two Akai reel to reel units; GX280D and GX285D. Both units use 7" reels. I could not afford a 10.5" reel machine, as these are selling close to $800 and up and I paid $350 for both my machines. I looked at purchasing an Akai EA-11 adapter kit, but decided that this was not the route I wanted to go. I went to work researching where I could mount the new reel hubs. I discovered quickly that I could not just move the old hubs and motors, as there were clearance issues with other component adjacent to where these components would be resituated. So I went to plan B, I would create a new set of NAB reel hubs that have two sets of roller bearings on a 8mm shaft that I would mount to the Tape deck chassis. I would remove the existing tape hubs and replace them with 48mm diameter pulleys. these low profile pulleys have a 3mm track for a rubber belt. The new NAB hubs also have a pulley. Mounting the axles for the NAB hubs was a royal pain! The upper left portion of the tape deck chassis resides the reel hub brake solenoid. So I remounted this unit to the other side of the chassis to gain 5mm of Z clearance. Still I had to drill the hole for the axle into the mounting bracket of this solenoid. So I now have the hubs and pulleys mounted with the belts installed. As mentioned in my initial post, I was concerned that the added Z-height might require remounting the tape heads a transports. However, it appears the alignment is still acceptable. I still have a lot of adjustments needed and eventually I will need to modify the front panel to accommodate the newly placed NAB hubs. This will be the last step, as so far all modifications can be removed and the original design still intact, but modifying the front panel is irreversible.

Now for the cost. I designed and printed all the pulleys and NAB hubs out of resin. They look professional. The only hardware that I did not have locally was the 688ZZ Deep Groove Ball Bearings Z2 8mm X 16mm X 5mm Double Shielded Carbon Steel, 5pcs for $6 on Amazon, 3mm assorted sizes of rubber belts, $5.50 on Amazon, AS-332 O-Rings, Nitrile Rubber O-Rings 2-3/8" ID 2-3/4" OD 3/16", 8 pcs $8 on Amazon. At the hardware store I spent $8 of various lengths of 5/16" bolts, nuts and washers. I still need to purchase a small length of steel or aluminum pipe or tube that I can use for a small outline Z-spacer for the 8mm (5/16") axles. I wasted a lot of 3D resin on failed design attempts so I calculate that this was the lion's share of the cost, ~$25. I estimate my total cost into this project is $66 including taxes. Update- I roached my brake solenoid plunger and it cost me an additional $35 to purchase a used one.

The EA-11 adapters are a kludge with no regard to stress loading. Most of the units I have seen on Ebay have either cracks or breaks in the casting that mount the hub axles. The casting are only part of the problem, the thin sheet metal outriggers, flexes under dynamic load placing an extraordinary amount of stress on the casting. The extend 50 mm away from the tape unit chassis on either side making them look awkward. My design brings these hubs back inward by 80mm each side, making the tape system look sharp and taking up less real estate. Last, the EA-11 are as rare as chicken teeth and ones that come up for sale are undesirable.

I am far from completion, as I still have adjustments to make. I still do not know if these 3mm belts will be reliable enough, maybe they will. I included a photo of my progress so far. I'll keep everyone apprised of my progress.

Regards,

Rickey
tape player.jpg
 

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I have two decks that accept 10.5" reels. Both have a switch for large reels (10.5") and small reels (7"). I'm assuming the switch adjusts the tourqe for the different take up reel sizes.

How is that being addressed in the proposed modification?
 
If you change your mind, DM me, and I'll put this on Barter Town. These are not thin sheet metal, Paul.IMG_2240.jpeg
 
I am far from completion, as I still have adjustments to make. I still do not know if these 3mm belts will be reliable enough, maybe they will. I included a photo of my progress so far. I'll keep everyone apprised of my progress.
Regards,
Rickey
Welcome to AK!!
 
I would think that the torque on the brake when stopping from FF or REW would be too much both for the belts and for the original brake shoe since the angular momentum has increased because you went from 7" to 10.5".
 
I would think that the torque on the brake when stopping from FF or REW would be too much both for the belts and for the original brake shoe since the angular momentum has increased because you went from 7" to 10.5".
Indeed. I have a contingency plan using a 4mm belt if needed, but this narrows my Z height margins. However, my biggest challenge is designing my own NAB hubs. I'm debugging a spring loaded ball bearing latching system that locks the hubs so the reel doesn't fly off. This is my first hack on the panel bezels that hide the primary pulleys and belts.
 

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Indeed. I have a contingency plan using a 4mm belt if needed, but this narrows my Z height margins. However, my biggest challenge is designing my own NAB hubs. I'm debugging a spring loaded ball bearing latching system that locks the hubs so the reel doesn't fly off. This is my first hack on the panel bezels that hide the primary pulleys and belts.
The belts in the factory kit I pictured in post #3 are 4mm round. Paul.
 
Want 10.5" reel capability. Best solution, buy a machine designed for this. And avoid clunky adapters.
Perhaps I should have prefaced this subject with my qualifications. I am a retired mixed signal engineer with over 40 years of design experience. I paid for my education by working as a machinist and going to night school. I have a metal machine shop, several 3D printers (FDM and SLA) at my disposal. I also have a complete wood shop including a large CNC router that I designed and built myself. On the electronic side, I have a full mini SMT line featuring a pick and place machine that I built and modified using an open source (opulo.io) design. I am also a vertical manufacture of virtual pinball machine components which I design and fabricate (intensearcade.com).

So when you offer me your 'best solution' you are basically telling me to resign, I can't do it. Thank you for your opinion.
 
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I was wondering why you would go through all this. After reading your above post, I can see that this project is a personal challenge, and you have the tools and ability to achieve this. Good luck to you. I am interested in the results. Paul.
 
The belts in the factory kit I pictured in post #3 are 4mm round. Paul.

I was wondering why you would go through all this. After reading your above post, I can see that this project is a personal challenge, and you have the tools and ability to achieve this. Good luck to you. I am interested in the results. Paul.
When you are an old fart like me, you don't take on physical challenges, but projects like this are always fun to undertake. Once I get it working and the bugs have been sorted I'll move the project to my github page so that other people can do this project without all the experimenting. rmhorwitz - Repositories
 
Perhaps I should have prefaced this subject with my qualifications. I am a retired mixed signal engineer with over 40 years of design experience. I paid for my education by working as a machinist and going to night school. I have a metal machine shop, several 3D printers (FDM and SLA) at my disposal. I also have a complete wood shop including a large CNC router that I designed and built myself. On the electronic side, I have a full mini SMT line featuring a pick and place machine that I built and modified using an open source (opulo.io) design. I am also a vertical manufacture of virtual pinball machine components which I design and fabricate (intensearcade.com).

So when you offer me your 'best solution' you are basically telling me to resign, I can't do it. Thank you for your opinion.
I've owned Magnecord PT-6 with this clunky adapter and an Akai with this same arrangement. A note: I traded in that Magnecord and that Akai, and got a better Magnecord machine which accepted 10.5 reels natively (and was 1/2 track Stereo with an added 1/4 track play head). That Magnecord upgrade, gave me far less problems, was easier to maintain, and was reliable.

I am not dissing your skills (and I've repaired more than my fair share of pinball machines, their complexity electro-mechanically is quite amazing). I know about making do, and those 10.5" reel adapters on 7" machines were very difficult to live with (and I am also a retired broadcast engineer). I admire what you do for the Pinball machine community, mad respect. The only 10.5" reel outrigger adapters which worked well I ever saw were on Nagra and StellaVox field recorders.

P.S. I'd love to see you make better 10.5" adapters that work well, and handle tape gently. I think if anyone can, you likely can. So, mutual respect.
 
BTW-I want to mention that I purchased Prww's Akai EA10 kit. I have a pristine GX285D complete with the original acrylic reel dust cover and it has no scratches. For those of you that grew up in the early 70's, we used these dust covers to thrash our weed to separate the stems and seeds from our stash. The acrylic would get damaged and would be eventually tossed (oh my misspent youth), my dust cover is pristine, but I digress. I figured that if I ever wanted to get a 4 hour party mix, these 10.5" reel adapters could make it happen and after the event I could revert it back to my 7" reels. This has nothing to do with my 10.5" reel conversion on my Akai GX280D.

Regards,

Rickey
 
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