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Altec 604-8g and 604-8k Low frequency performance in 620a/b cabinets..or.. Have I made an expensive mistake ??

I honestly don’t think you’re at a noticeable disadvantage with 8K, but my experience with 604 (604-8G) is that they’re helped dramatically by a highpass and subs.

At that point, you really don’t need a 620, and could get away with a smaller cabinet or open baffle.
 
The height of the 604-8K in the enclosure needs consideration related to your seated position. They should be at ear level or slightly above that point. Unless you intend to raise the 620 enclosure on legs or soffit mount them as was the practice in studios, then you might be a step ahead if you build a larger cabinet in the first place and not waste the space underneath. The T & S parameters correspond with the earlier 8G version and I have heard these in 460 litre enclosures (24 Hz Fb) and these provided accurate bass performance without hangover. The Altec Lansings use the short voice coil in a long gap technique and this needs an enclosure that efficiently loads the cone at low frequencies.
Thanks VA. that is possible from my room perspective. but i don’t know how to go about modelling the optimum baffle dimensions, and port size (based on 3/4 depth of port. Thats why i thought i’d play it safe and go with the 620b cabinet size. that’s 9cubic feet as opposed to your suggested 16.25 cubic ft. i could of course just proportionally extend the 620 cabinet design to give the required volume. is this an appropriate approach ? The 604-8gs i listened to that started all this off had stands that raised the speaker about 8 inches off the floor. i had intended to do the same, but if i can get better performance in building a bigger cabinet then i’d be keen to look at that. but it’s a risk for me because i’m new to this and don’t appreciate all the things i’m effecting by making changies. I did read one thread on a forum ( on the 604-8g) that suggested the 9 cu ft cabinet 620a produced as good a set of results as pretty much any other variation of size. but i’m not sure how subjective vs objective that was. Thanks again.
 
I honestly don’t think you’re at a noticeable disadvantage with 8K, but my experience with 604 (604-8G) is that they’re helped dramatically by a highpass and subs.

At that point, you really don’t need a 620, and could get away with a smaller cabinet or open baffle.
Thanks Winter, that’s good to know, My room is 13.5m x 5.7m x 2.6m LWH open at one end… so i’m quite liking the idea of a big Cabinet assuming i can get a similar performance to that I heard on the 8g at my friends a couple of weeks ago. it’s fair to say i enjoyed it as much as anything else i’ve heard. not necessarily as highly detailed or clinical, but i’ve been moving away from that over the years. i’ve had Avantgarde horns, tannoy Westminsters se’s, some big soundlab electrostatics. Devore orang 0/96 and the‘ve all been good in their own way. I thought the Altecs sound great.
 
I imagine that if you bought from the States, shipping would be astronomical. I got these one-offs, including the one-off electronic crossover and one-off passive eq units that go between the amp and horns and one of the Marantz 170DCs, from a recording studio that went out of business.


This is the best way to do it and when the group comes over, they say they've never heard 604s sound so good! (These would be 604E2s.)

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I imagine that if you bought from the States, shipping would be astronomical. I got these one-offs, including the one-off electronic crossover and one-off passive eq units that go between the amp and horns and one of the Marantz 170DCs, from a recording studio that went out of business.


This is the best way to do it and when the group comes over, they say they've never heard 604s sound so good! (These would be 604E2s.)

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Hi Tod, Yes, shipping from CONUS seems very expensive now... I bought my Westminsters from the US about 10 years ago and got them shipped here. That would be astronomical now. Wow! What a system. They are brilliant. I bet you were happy when you came across that lot !!! As much as I can tell from youtube they sound great. The system I listened too had a leak stereo 20 and point 1 pre. driving 604-8gs in a 620a Cab. The tone controls had been used to give a bit of low end boost. It sounded great. Big soundstage ( in a huge/tall room) effortless and a deep soundstage that was very free of the boxes. I've got a single ended 845 tube amp that I tried on his speakers, and I liked it, but I think I might be looking to some vintage tube electronics at some point too. Where does it end ??? Unless of course you come across a monster system like yours... I mean where do you go from there... Congrats I bet you enjoy it hugely. Nice choice of music too.
 
Hi Tod, Yes, shipping from CONUS seems very expensive now... I bought my Westminsters from the US about 10 years ago and got them shipped here. That would be astronomical now. Wow! What a system. They are brilliant. I bet you were happy when you came across that lot !!! As much as I can tell from youtube they sound great. The system I listened too had a leak stereo 20 and point 1 pre. driving 604-8gs in a 620a Cab. The tone controls had been used to give a bit of low end boost. It sounded great. Big soundstage ( in a huge/tall room) effortless and a deep soundstage that was very free of the boxes. I've got a single ended 845 tube amp that I tried on his speakers, and I liked it, but I think I might be looking to some vintage tube electronics at some point too. Where does it end ??? Unless of course you come across a monster system like yours... I mean where do you go from there... Congrats I bet you enjoy it hugely. Nice choice of music too.
Very rarely used. Too uncomfortable to rearrange the seating for them and I prefer my own creation.

I remember shipping a couple used large-scale train cars to Aussieland back in 1997 and the shipping was more than the train cars.

Like these. The railcars are 33" long.
s-l1600.webp
 
Very rarely used. Too uncomfortable to rearrange the seating for them and I prefer my own creation.

I remember shipping a couple used large-scale train cars to Aussieland back in 1997 and the shipping was more than the train cars.

Like these. The railcars are 33" long.
s-l1600.webp
That's very cool. what a lovey thing. I've got a smaller pair of Living voice auditoriums in my family room at the moment and use them daily. Once the Altecs are complete I'll decide whether to put them in there where they will get used a lot or into the "home theatre" room which is more dedicated but they will only get used once or twice a week. At least they'll be more manageable than the Tannoys at 140kg. When you say that you prefer your own creation, have you designed and made your own speakers ?
 
That's very cool. what a lovey thing. I've got a smaller pair of Living voice auditoriums in my family room at the moment and use them daily. Once the Altecs are complete I'll decide whether to put them in there where they will get used a lot or into the "home theatre" room which is more dedicated but they will only get used once or twice a week. At least they'll be more manageable than the Tannoys at 140kg. When you say that you prefer your own creation, have you designed and made your own speakers ?
JBL 2241H - 18"/ JBL 2251J - 9.75" / Modified Heil AMT.

No eq or room correction, electronic or physical, is being used. This is "Pure Direct."

 
JBL 2241H - 18"/ JBL 2251J - 9.75" / Modified Heil AMT.

No eq or room correction, electronic or physical, is being used. This is "Pure Direct."

Very nice indeed. I like a Ribbon tweeter. You are not lacking in fun toys there that's for sure.
 
If you can swing it, new 604’s with Alnico or ferrite motors are being made by GPA. They’re not inexpensive, but I think they are the best sounding of the different types of 604’s I’ve heard. I have the 604-8H-III, which is the ferrite motor version.

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If you can swing it, new 604’s with Alnico or ferrite motors are being made by GPA. They’re not inexpensive, but I think they are the best sounding of the different types of 604’s I’ve heard. I have the 604-8H-III, which is the ferrite motor version.

View attachment 3309615
db...I checked out the pricing on the GPA website and a pair of drivers and crossovers work out about 6.6k New Zealand dollars( plus 15% import tax ) . My Original 604-8k's are costing about 4k NZD. I'm not sure at this point how much my cabinets will be. I thinking of going a painted black cabinet with a Walnut veneered baffle. My friend has a pair like that, looks nice to me if not totally authentic. Especially on his custom stands. Hopefully they will end up a bit like this.but with a Walnut baffle. If my new drivers and crossovers turn up and are a big box of mangled bits then I may well go the GPA route. Which will indeed make this original purchase an expensive mistake. Still from what I've heard over the years. The Altecs perform up there. My last serious speaker was a pair of Orangutan 0/96's. They were lovely speakers. They are 30k NZD now. 18.5 USD . I expect to have my Altecs complete for 10k nzd 6USD. If I can do that I think I'll feel well ahead. It's going to be fun I think. Thanks for your comments.



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db...I checked out the pricing on the GPA website and a pair of drivers and crossovers work out about 6.6k New Zealand dollars( plus 15% import tax ) . My Original 604-8k's are costing about 4k NZD. I'm not sure at this point how much my cabinets will be. I thinking of going a painted black cabinet with a Walnut veneered baffle. My friend has a pair like that, looks nice to me if not totally authentic. Especially on his custom stands. Hopefully they will end up a bit like this.but with a Walnut baffle. If my new drivers and crossovers turn up and are a big box of mangled bits then I may well go the GPA route. Which will indeed make this original purchase an expensive mistake. Still from what I've heard over the years. The Altecs perform up there. My last serious speaker was a pair of Orangutan 0/96's. They were lovely speakers. They are 30k NZD now. 18.5 USD . I expect to have my Altecs complete for 10k nzd 6USD. If I can do that I think I'll feel well ahead. It's going to be fun I think. Thanks for your comments.



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Great-looking cabinets!
 
Hi Guys, Good luck for the election on Tuesday. I'll be watching from afar....

Anyway....

I'm pressing ahead with a 620a cabinet style veneered in oak, I see the 604-8k came with the 620b. But I prefer the symmetrically placed network and port so I'm doing that.

I've got a question on the tee nuts to mount the drivers. Front mounting the drivers, the altec drawing has the installed tee nut sitting proud of the baffle, so the driver could be placed on the baffle and located onto the Tee nuts without bolts, then the bolts secure the drivers..... What length of tee nuts do I need ??

Assuming that my ply is 18mm plus veneer, so around 20mm all together. plus depth of speaker frame and gasket. so I guess a 30mm length of tee nut would do. Just as long as its proud of the baffle but not proud enough to be deeper than the driver frame.

Does this sound about right ? or am I reading this wrong ? Thanks All.
Screenshot 2024-11-04 at 21.23.52.png
 
Hi Guys, Good luck for the election on Tuesday. I'll be watching from afar....

Anyway....

I'm pressing ahead with a 620a cabinet style veneered in oak, I see the 604-8k came with the 620b. But I prefer the symmetrically placed network and port so I'm doing that.

I've got a question on the tee nuts to mount the drivers. Front mounting the drivers, the altec drawing has the installed tee nut sitting proud of the baffle, so the driver could be placed on the baffle and located onto the Tee nuts without bolts, then the bolts secure the drivers..... What length of tee nuts do I need ??

Assuming that my ply is 18mm plus veneer, so around 20mm all together. plus depth of speaker frame and gasket. so I guess a 30mm length of tee nut would do. Just as long as its proud of the baffle but not proud enough to be deeper than the driver frame.

Does this sound about right ? or am I reading this wrong ? Thanks All.
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Hi Borg, 30mm will do, but if you can find a 25mm would be safer.Also use a little wood glue,it couldn't hurt. I can't wait to watch your build. Obviously, take step by step pics of the build. Dan
 
Hi Borg, 30mm will do, but if you can find a 25mm would be safer.Also use a little wood glue,it couldn't hurt. I can't wait to watch your build. Obviously, take step by step pics of the build. Dan
Hi Dan. Will do, I'm sure I can find some 25mm Tee nuts...I'm having the cabs professionally built, they are going to screw the back panel in but leave it removable, so I can play around a bit with damping/wiring etc. When I'm happy that I've got the best balance out of them I'll Screw and glue the black panel. They'll make me grille frames as well, I'll have to find some cloth and staple/glue it. And find suitable grille attachments.
(Dont know whats going on above.That's part of my comment)


Just to clarify, Do you mean to apply some wood glue to the T nut as a bit of extra strength.... Good idea.

So far, I've got my 604-8k drivers. They look all original in great condition. They have settled down after shipping and are now playing nicely with no voice coil drag.
Original networks. labeled 604-8k. They look great too and do what they should.
Bought some new alu Mantaray logos for my horns.
Bought 20m of duelund 16awg Oil and cotton cable as internal hookup cable. and 20m of 12awg, so I can have a play with that and see if it makes any difference. I'm told double cable runs to the Low frequency terminals off the crossover might be a good idea... we will see.

I also picked up a Leak Stereo 50 and varioslope amplifiers on the weekend. They sound great, but need to go to the Amp doctor for a full clean and check everything is ok. They do some things amazingly well. Looking forward to trying them on the 604's when they are together. I think they'll be a very good match.

What else... I'll set them up on some rolling dollies until complete then I'll build myself some chunky wooden stands. I might even do a new(second hand) sofa.

It's good to have a project.

Thanks for your thoughts Dan.
 
(Dont know whats going on above.That's part of my comment)


Just to clarify, Do you mean to apply some wood glue to the T nut as a bit of extra strength.... Good idea.

So far, I've got my 604-8k drivers. They look all original in great condition. They have settled down after shipping and are now playing nicely with no voice coil drag.
Original networks. labeled 604-8k. They look great too and do what they should.
Bought some new alu Mantaray logos for my horns.
Bought 20m of duelund 16awg Oil and cotton cable as internal hookup cable. and 20m of 12awg, so I can have a play with that and see if it makes any difference. I'm told double cable runs to the Low frequency terminals off the crossover might be a good idea... we will see.

I also picked up a Leak Stereo 50 and varioslope amplifiers on the weekend. They sound great, but need to go to the Amp doctor for a full clean and check everything is ok. They do some things amazingly well. Looking forward to trying them on the 604's when they are together. I think they'll be a very good match.

What else... I'll set them up on some rolling dollies until complete then I'll build myself some chunky wooden stands. I might even do a new(second hand) sofa.

It's good to have a project.

Thanks for your thoughts Dan.
Also when I braced my 84 Corwalls with the removal back panel, I lined the piece of wood that the panel screws into with foam rubber weather strip for a better seal. Also will help with any vibrations from the cabinet...
 
Also when I braced my 84 Corwalls with the removal back panel, I lined the piece of wood that the panel screws into with foam rubber weather strip for a better seal. Also will help with any vibrations from the cabinet...
That's a good idea too. I've got some automotive double sided tape it's a two mil thick rubberised strip , double sided adhesive. I think I'll glue and screw and then silicone seal any gap. I'd kind of like to try and make the box as connected and rigid as possible. so the whole box can work like a "tone wood" element. I don't know if this is a good or bad approach, but it sort of makes sense to me. I don't think that building a dense, very inert box( eg like out of MDF) was part of the initial design approach. My panel fit should be pretty good. Its being CNC layed out and cut. I'll try the cabinet without any damping first and see how that is, then damp opposite sides with wool insulation if I need to.... Hours of fun to be had...
 
What material are you using for the motorboard? Ply or MDF?
If your going the ply way, just give it some thought on cross bracing...;)
 
Hia Team... Its been a while but my cabinets are almost ready. I went to the Makers yesterday and had a look. He's exceeded my expectaions, they look fabulous and everything looks good. They are 3/4inch baltic ply with Oak veneer apart from the back panel. here are a couple of pics so far. More pics as I start to assemble next week.

I hope you guys in the US are doing ok. Everything seems a bit ..... Complicated right now. Take care all.
 

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Just want to say how beautiful those cabinets are and to mention that I bought cabinets built for tannoy silvers 15s. They were left over from about 1963. I put modern tannoy dual concentrics in them with, of course, ferrite magnets. Let me just say that no one who hears them inquires about the magnet type. Even my girlfriend loves them.
 
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