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Alternatives to DQ-10s? Looking for Speaker Advice

I ended up buying a pair of mirror imaged, recapped Dq10s. No regrets!
trinhsman said:
You’ll hate this advice.
Drop the girl friend.
Keep your Dahquists.
There are tons of girls out there. There are also women that will love you and understand your hobby.
My wife of 32 years understands my love of this hobby. Many women would not allow me to have the equipment I have set up in our main living area. She does.
Replacing your Dahquists with something you will like is going to require a speaker most likely just as large.
I wish you well.
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I ended up buying a pair of mirror imaged, recapped Dq10s. No regrets!
 
Blue Shadow said:
not without pictures!

nice enjoyable speaker. What caps were used? Were they mirrored as new or modified?
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I still have to redo the grills, but I have the frame. The were originally mirrored. Here’s the back.
 

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Those are not just recapped, they are Regnar recapped. About twice the price of Harry Homestereo’s selection of caps to redo his speakers.

Might have other Regnar parts but that doesn’t seem to include wire except the stuff used for the big cap, but could include the binding posts, tweeter level control and tweeter fuse. All only really necessary if the originals are bad. The fuse, Regnar goes with a 0.75A vs stock 0.8A fuse for more safety, they say. Both are easily found at Digikey/Mouser.

Should work well with the Kenwood amp.

Do you have all 8 screws for rear grille? An American has extra and offered em.

What about stands, some like taller than stock, 18” and very few use the feet that came with the speakers.
 
Blue Shadow said:
Those are not just recapped, they are Regnar recapped. About twice the price of Harry Homestereo’s selection of caps to redo his speakers.

Might have other Regnar parts but that doesn’t seem to include wire except the stuff used for the big cap, but could include the binding posts, tweeter level control and tweeter fuse. All only really necessary if the originals are bad. The fuse, Regnar goes with a 0.75A vs stock 0.8A fuse for more safety, they say. Both are easily found at Digikey/Mouser.

Should work well with the Kenwood amp.
Click to expand...
I purchased them from Wayne Carter in San Diego who does a lot of refurbishing and rebuilding of audio equipment, including Dahlquist in SoCal. Great guy and very excited to have them all hooked up with the Kenwoods! I’ll send some photos of the whole system when it’s all hooked up.
 
Blue Shadow said:
Those are not just recapped, they are Regnar recapped. About twice the price of Harry Homestereo’s selection of caps to redo his speakers.

Might have other Regnar parts but that doesn’t seem to include wire except the stuff used for the big cap, but could include the binding posts, tweeter level control and tweeter fuse. All only really necessary if the originals are bad. The fuse, Regnar goes with a 0.75A vs stock 0.8A fuse for more safety, they say. Both are easily found at Digikey/Mouser.

Should work well with the Kenwood amp.

Do you have all 8 screws for rear grille? An American has extra and offered em.

What about stands, some like taller than stock, 18” and very few use the feet that came with the speakers.
Click to expand...
A week in and still loving the sound. I think I might get a sub. I was able to put new grill cloth on and they look great.

However, I’m lost on what fuses I should be using for the main fuse near the metal posts in the rear. I was told that I should use a Bussman AGC 3 but when I pulled out the main fuse, I saw that there was an AGC .75 currently being used. I’m now confused if both the tweeter and main fuse are just AGC .75 fuses. Looking at the Dahlquist speakers website, it shows that the main fuse should be AGC3. Does anyone know what is the right main fuse?
 

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The correct fuses are 0.75A for the tweeter but Regnar is supplying 0.8A and 3A for the main input fuse which will handle over 200 watts. I’ve popped this larger fuse a couple times, first was both at once and BAM silence. Other time was just one. Yes, I was at the limit of the amp…actually just a bit over.

Just put in the correct fuses as the 0.75A fuse on main input will not let enough power through, unless you are using lower power, be nice to use a fuse that will pop when you are overdriving the amp. The Crown nomograph for proper fuse size based on impedance and amp power is in this post:

Figuring out the correct speaker fuse rating. Heathkit AA-1640

The schematic doesn't list the fuse rating. The ones in the speaker positions were rated at 2 amps. The amp is rated at 200 watts into 8 ohms and I'm blowing the 2 amp fuse at 23v"s PP using a 8 ohm load. The trace hasn't even started to clip before the fuse pops. Formula? Is it figured using a...
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