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Another 2230 recap

V

vinylthunder

Active Member
Hi All,

I am planning to recap my 2230. I don't know anything about electronics but I have done other recaps before (Pioneer SX-850) following instructions I found in AK and much help from the expert forum members.

First step is to order the parts and I was hoping you could help me nail down the recommended parts.

This is what I have so far:

Power Supply
C803 - 470/100V snap in
CDE 381LX 470/100V (MOUSER 598-381LX471M100H012) X1
I was hoping to find the equivalent 470/100V Nichicon KS but the lowest capacitance for the KS series is 680uF.

C804 and C806 - 330/63V
Panasonic FC 330/63V (MOUSER EEU-FC1J331L) X2
I was hoping to find the equivalent 330/63V ELNA Silmic II but I could not find them anywhere.

C805 - 470/25V
ELNA RFS Silmic II series #72719 (Parts Connexion) X1

C807 - 3.3/50V
ELNA RFS Silmic II series 3.3/50V (Hand Made Electronics 3-RFS-3R3050R0) X1

H805 and H804 diodes (SIB-01-02)
No idea

I would like to start with the power supply and continue from there.
 
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Power and Coupling Caps:

Coupling Caps
Nichicon 3300/63V (MOUSER 647-UKW1J332MRD) X2 - $7.46

Power Cap
CDE 6800/100V (MOUSER 598-SLPX682M100H9P3) X1 - $6.99
 
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vinylthunder said:
Hi All,

I am planning to recap my 2230. I don't know anything about electronics but I have done other recaps before (Pioneer SX-850) following instructions I found in AK and much help from the expert forum members.

First step is to order the parts and I was hoping you could help me nail down the recommended parts.

This is what I have so far:

Power Supply
C803 - 470/100V snap in
CDE 381LX 470/100V (MOUSER 598-381LX471M100H012) X1
I was hoping to find the equivalent 470/100V Nichicon KS but the lowest capacitance for the KS series is 680uF.

C804 and C806 - 330/63V
Panasonic FC 330/63V (MOUSER EEU-FC1J331L) X2
I was hoping to find the equivalent 330/63V ELNA Silmic II but I could not find them anywhere.

C805 - 470/25V
ELNA RFS Silmic II series #72719 (Parts Connexion) X1

C807 - 3.3/50V
ELNA RFS Silmic II series 3.3/50V (Hand Made Electronics 3-RFS-3R3050R0) X1

H805 and H804 diodes (SIB-01-02)
No idea

I would like to start with the power supply and continue from there.
Click to expand...
As there are Many threads on 2230 Recaps....I would PM "patfont"....Pat was selling(BarterTown - Parts) "drop in" rebuild kit for 2230 and these are Very Fine parts.
 
These are the parts I ordered with some basic instructions for idle current and voltage adjustments. Thank you all for all the info. I am very excited about this project. If parts arrive early next week I should be listening to the refreshed 2230 by next weekend. The majority of the expenses are due to shipping costs. I ordered parts from Mouser, Digi-Key, and the Parts Connexion.

AMP Board P750
6 caps total per side.

C751 WIMA MSK2 1/50
C752 Panny FC 100/50
C753 ELNA Silmic II 10/35
C754/C755 Nichicon FG 47/50
C757 ELNA Silmic II 22/35

Note - There are suggestions in multiple recaps instructions to replace one of the ceramics with a NPO/COG type but I don’t know its location. I ordered 581-SR222A101JAR from MOUSER (AVX SR 100pF 50V). Unless I find more info I will leave this alone.

Idle current adjustment.
The service manual says to adjust idle current by monitoring voltage across resistor R775 and adjusting R765 to 5 mV. However, I found another reference that said to adjust idle current by monitoring voltage across J759 and J757 to 10.5 mV. My plan is to follow the service manual instructions (5 mV across R765) and then check voltage across J759 & J757.

Clipping level adjustment at R760
Service manual says to use an oscilloscope for this adjustment. I will leave this alone for now.

Power Supply Assembly (P800)
5 caps total

C803 - snap in CDE 381LX 470/100
C804/C806 - Recommended was ELNA Silmic II 330/50. I ordered Nichicon KW 330/63.
C805 - ELNA RFS Silmic II 470/25
C807 - Recommended was ELNA 3.3/50. I ordered Nichicon FG 3.3/50

This does not look right to me. Too many different brands and Nichicon KW and FG mix together. I know many recommended using Panny FCs across this board. I am planning to make an order from parts connexion and I will add ELNA caps for C804/C806.

P800 revision
C804/C806 - ELNA Silmic II 330/50 (parts connexion ELNA-72738)*

Also, there are two diodes that can be upgraded. I think the part number from Digi-Key is UF4005-E3/54GICT-ND. I will leave this alone for now since I don’t have all the details.

When done connect volt meter between J08 and ground and adjust R810 to 35.6V. Note: The SM says J08 but there is no J08 on the board. I will check voltage at J808.

Power Cap x 1
Panasonic THA 10,000uF 80V 40 mm (Mouser)

Coupling caps x 2
Panasonic THA 4700uF 100V 35 mm (Digi-Key)

Preamp (P400)
13 caps total and 1 resistor

C401/C402 - keep original or replace with Mundorf Mcap EVO 0.22uF/450V*
C403/C404 - ELNA Silmic II 1/50
C405/C406 - ELNA Silmic II 10/35 (Digi-Key)
C407/C408 - keep original or replace with WIMA MSK2 3.3/50
C409 - ELNA Silmic II 100/35
C410/C411 - ELNA Silmic II 3.3/100
C414/C415 - WIMA MSK4 1/50
C416/C417 - keep original

AMRG resistor - parts connexion AMTRANS-73911*
390K / 0.75 (3/4) Watt, Carbon Film, gold-plated leads

Phono Board
Will do this later
 
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Parts from Mouser will be here later today. I am starting to map the P800 board. It looks like I can do the work without removing the board. Is that right?
 

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I almost never remove a board, very seldom remove any wires, where there's a will there's a way. The big exception to this rule is some 2230, 2245 and 2270 receivers have every wire for the MPX board running through a tiny hole in the AM tuner mounting bracket.

Tom
 
Thanks!!!

I checked the voltage at J808 and it was rock solid at 32.6VDC. I will adjust this to 35.6VDC after I replace the caps. Still waiting for UPS to show up.
 

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The new caps for the power supply board are in and the idle current has been adjusted to 35.6VDC. I did a quick listen using my iPod and Ar2a speakers to make sure everything was working. After changing the caps I used a dim-bulb tester with a 75 watt bulb to power up. I did used Nichicons for C804/C805 and C807 but the equivalent Silmic IIs for these positions are on their way and I will try them as soon as they get here.
 

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The P750 amp boards are not going to be as easy as the power supply. I had to disassemble the power amp board from its heat sink, and the heat sink from the chassis (without undoing any of the wires) to be able to get to the foil side. There is very little play even after doing that and most of the work will have to be done with the board sitting vertically. If there is a better way please let me know.
 

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I just pulled C757 and it is a 22/50 cap not a 22/35 as shown in the service manual. I put the old cap back.
 

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Both amp boards are now done except for C757. I set the idle current to 10.5 mV across J759 and J757. I tried measuring across R755 but I was getting bad readings.
 
I think that to get to the foil side of P400 I am going to have to disassemble the tone amp board from the chassis. There are 3 (11mm) nuts around the shafts for the tone controls that are holding the board in place.
 
I will go back and redo all the caps that I missed. The caps on the amp boards were actually not that bad to replace. I thought the preamp was going to be easy but so far this has been the hardest board. I got WIMA MSK4s for C414/C415 but they were the wrong size. The 1uF 50V MSK4s had a lead spacing of 7.5 mm, which was a bit too short for an easy fit. I managed to get them in but it took some time. I am planning to order 1uF 63V MSK4s with a lead spacing of 10 mm. I think those will fit better. I am also waiting for Silmic IIs for C405/C406.

I am listening to receiver now and it sounds fantastic. The change in quality is not small. It has much more clarity and detail than before with more extended highs. I love it.

Next I will do the power and coupling caps.
 

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The original power cap does not have any markings for polarity. I looked at pictures of previous recaps and I am pretty sure the red cables got to + and white to negative. I wish I would have spend a little more time looking for a screw type cap. The leads on the Panasonic THA are pretty small. I am now trying to figure out the best way to make the connections.
 
On the 2230 filter capacitor, red is positive and white is negative as you have surmised.

I follow Echowars' method and crimp on ring terminals to make the wire connections to Snap-In caps.

Tom

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