Another DIM BULB TESTER Thread

[the architect]

I am wanting to make sure the wiring is correct before I turn it on. I am wanting to only use the bottom outlet so I broke off both tabs. Is this correct? I have another outlet with just the brass tab broken off. Should I use that one? I'm just a bit confused as to the wiring of the outlet and the tabs function. Thanks for any advice.

 

[Hyperion]

Looks OK to me - but then I am not as familiar as I could be with US style plugs and sockets (I am in UK) and the implications, or not, of breaking off those 'tabs' you mention.

 

[Buzzcut]

Looks good to me as well, I'd suggest you run the hot lead to the switch.

 

[westend]

I see. Yes, you have the circuit correct to only have power to one part of the receptacle. A device plugged into the receptacle will be in series with the light bulb. Is there any special reason that you only have one part of the receptacle powered? It would be a total distraction to me as I would probably choose to plug into the non-powered location more than 50% of the time. I guess a guy could tape shut the unused part of the duplex to avoid confusion.

 

[sfox52]

I built one with the switch and outlet in the same single gang box, the switch has an LED "on" indicator also. It's mounted on a plywood board base.

 

[the architect]

I see. Yes, you have the circuit correct to only have power to one part of the receptacle. A device plugged into the receptacle will be in series with the light bulb. Is there any special reason that you only have one part of the receptacle powered? It would be a total distraction to me as I would probably choose to plug into the non-powered location more than 50% of the time. I guess a guy could tape shut the unused part of the duplex to avoid confusion.

thank you thank you! i figured pictures could better explain the circuit than words. i'll put a plastic cap on the top one. while i was at home depot all i saw were the double outlets instead of single and i wasn't quite sure how to wire it so both could be used.

edit: here is a pic of it. there's 1/2" clearance between two boards to hide the wiring. power cord is held firmly in place on the back with a clip. oh, and it has feet

 

[the architect]

I built one with the switch and outlet in the same single gang box, the switch has an LED "on" indicator also. It's mounted on a plywood board base.

thats a great idea! all-in-one :yes:

 

[OverLoad]

.........while i was at home depot all i saw were the double outlets instead of single and i wasn't quite sure how to wire it so both could be used.

You would have just wired the outlet the same way you have done so. The outlets are connected in parallel so it only means had you not broken the tabs, either outlet could have been used to plug the DUT into.

By breaking the tabs on the outlet as you have done, you could have reduced that large tester to a nice tidy package as I and others have done (pictured below). The wiring scheme is the same accept the two outlets are in series as well.

In case anyone is wondering, that is a shorting plug attached by velcro on the front. When full mains is required after the DBT, I simple unplug the bulb and insert the shorting plug.

 

[tdx1]

Yes the schematic is exactly correct. You have the switch and bulb on the hot side of the circuit which is the best practice, it works properly either way but it's always best (and code for structural wiring) to switch the hot side of the load to keep neutral connected.

 

[westend]

thank you thank you! i figured pictures could better explain the circuit than words. i'll put a plastic cap on the top one. while i was at home depot all i saw were the double outlets instead of single and i wasn't quite sure how to wire it so both could be used.

edit: here is a pic of it. there's 1/2" clearance between two boards to hide the wiring. power cord is held firmly in place on the back with a clip. oh, and it has feet

Nicely built! And feet even!:thmbsp:

You would have just wired the outlet the same way you have done so. The outlets are connected in parallel so it only means had you not broken the tabs, either outlet could have been used to plug the DUT into.

By breaking the tabs on the outlet as you have done, you could have reduced that large tester to a nice tidy package as I and others have done (pictured below). The wiring scheme is the same accept the two outlets are in series as well.

In case anyone is wondering, that is a shorting plug attached by velcro on the front. When full mains is required after the DBT, I simple unplug the bulb and insert the shorting plug.

Really tidy implementation! Nicely done. :thmbsp::thmbsp:

Yes the schematic is exactly correct. You have the switch and bulb on the hot side of the circuit which is the best practice, it works properly either way but it's always best (and code for structural wiring) to switch the hot side of the load to keep neutral connected.

+1 :yes:

 

[sfox52]

Cool- the two gang box & the plug in light socket is even more compact than mine.

 

[electronjohn]

I wired mine so that one half of the duplex outlet was in series with the bulb socket, and wired the other half of the outlet for full 120V. Just used some bright red nail polish to paint the "full power" half to avoid confusion.

 

[ken kantor]

thats a great idea! all-in-one :yes:

I recommend putting a >neon< indicator across the socket to show when it has high voltage on it.

If you want to be really slick, you can insert a tap in parallel with the bulb to make it easy to connect an ammeter when troubleshooting. (You can't use the meter and the bulb simultaneously. Start with the bulb, then plug in the meter to effectively shunt the bulb out of the circuit.)

-k

 

[tsd71]

Can you show a pic with the cover off and your wiring scheme?

Thanks

You would have just wired the outlet the same way you have done so. The outlets are connected in parallel so it only means had you not broken the tabs, either outlet could have been used to plug the DUT into.

By breaking the tabs on the outlet as you have done, you could have reduced that large tester to a nice tidy package as I and others have done (pictured below). The wiring scheme is the same accept the two outlets are in series as well.

In case anyone is wondering, that is a shorting plug attached by velcro on the front. When full mains is required after the DBT, I simple unplug the bulb and insert the shorting plug.

 

[OverLoad]

tsd71,

Rather than have its buried in this thread I provided details HERE