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Another Thorens Question..

semge

New Member
I have been given the choice of two fully functional Thorens tables...one a TD145 and one a TD160. I understand the 145 has the semi-automatic function... I'm coming from a dual 1229 so I like the function but I also crave more simplicity I think. I could always get an aftermarket lifter if I so pleased...

Grant me some sage advice on things to consider. Like I said I come from a dual turntable so at this point I'd love something that just has some satisfying complexity!
 
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Hi @semge,

For 30 years, I had two Venerable Vintage THORENS turntables : a TD160 and a TD160MKII...

1703179941507.png

Simple to set up and operate, their reliability is legendary... Oh, OK : you need sometimes to replace the belt (I replaced it each 10 years : not dramatic). Replacement parts and information - just in case - are easily available on the web, but you can find those THORENS turntable models in mint, barely used condition for very affordable prices.

I replaced my THORENS for one main reason : they did not accepted the "flex" floor of my new little auditorium, so I replaced them by a Technics SL-1200G which proved unsensitive enough to the footfalls.

1703182332849.png

If you want a simple, foolproof, faithfull THORENS, The TD160 and TD160MKII are the models I would recommend - by my experience.

T
 
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Longtime owner of a TD160. Love the simplicity. Easy to work on, if need be. I replaced the RCA plugs, as those tend to falter with age. And be aware there is no external ground wire, it runs inside RCA cable. Bottom line is that it's very musical to my ears. But to the point above, they are susceptible to footfall. I had my deck in a carpeted basement for years, no problem. But after moving it upstairs to a living room with hardwoods, I now have to really walk softly.
 
Other than the auto-lift, they are the same machine. The 145 is fully electronic on the lift, no linkage or any of that like the Dual has. Its got a magnet and a coil, and when the arm gets over the coil it lifts the arm. Its a slightly fussy thing and if someone has messed with the arm height in the back it probably doesn't work. I'd ask for that to be demonstrated and take some $ off if broken.

They do want genuine Thorens belts but otherwise its not real fussy mechanically. Maybe when its time to change the belt, use some paper towels to soak up the old oil in the bearing well and put some fresh in there. The original translates to an ISO 46 spindle or hydraulic oil.

and yeah if your floors are bad, you are going to hate it. Mine sat un-used for a number of years for flooring reasons. My 13 lb dog walking across the floor could make the arm jump right off the record. It now lives out in my front room which is concrete under the carpet. I could have a troupe of trained hippos out there ballet dancing and it wouldn't care.
 
Other than the auto-lift, they are the same machine. The 145 is fully electronic on the lift, no linkage or any of that like the Dual has. Its got a magnet and a coil, and when the arm gets over the coil it lifts the arm. Its a slightly fussy thing and if someone has messed with the arm height in the back it probably doesn't work. I'd ask for that to be demonstrated and take some $ off if broken.

They do want genuine Thorens belts but otherwise its not real fussy mechanically. Maybe when its time to change the belt, use some paper towels to soak up the old oil in the bearing well and put some fresh in there. The original translates to an ISO 46 spindle or hydraulic oil.

and yeah if your floors are bad, you are going to hate it. Mine sat un-used for a number of years for flooring reasons. My 13 lb dog walking across the floor could make the arm jump right off the record. It now lives out in my front room which is concrete under the carpet. I could have a troupe of trained hippos out there ballet dancing and it wouldn't care.
Curious...do you think one of those wood block isolation platforms could help with footfall...or are those more about minimizing subtle vibrations (i.e. sound from speakers)?
 
thats more of a speaker thing, which the suspension in the Thorens handles very nicely on it's own.

Floors seem to bounce at a pretty low frequency, and it seems to be at a similar frequency to the Thorens suspension so it gets pretty bad.
 
The ONLY way is to install a wall shelf. Having the GAE & an EMT 948 which weighs in @ 60 lps. Installing the Technics on a wall shelf, yielded great success, but still have footfalls with the EMT (suspended deck). YMMV
 
If you are offered one get it and figure out later if you need to work on a proper way to place it. Your home floor might not be a problem. Like mentioned above, almost no difference so go for overall condition and/or personal preference on how it fits in with the other gear.
 
Hi @semge, and welcome to AK! This is a great place to find really helpful information so you're in good company!

The ONLY way is to install a wall shelf.

Maybe not the ONLY way (see @gadget73 post above), but point is well-taken because a wall shelf usually solves these problems very nicely and can be DIY'd for a very small investment compared to the $$$ you would pay for any variety of pucks, insulators, sandboxes etc. etc. And, as some have said they are nearly identical machines so all you have to decide is if you want the auto-lift or not. I have the TD160 and find it a very, very nice tt and one that I could live with were it my only one......let us know how you go amigo and again, nice of you to join us! Merry Christmas!

Check out my wall shelf:

IMG_2775.JPEGIMG_2776.JPEG

See in the second picture, those holes in the bottom of the Thorens TD160 bottom plate? Those are where you adjust the springs for the proper "bounce" and this shelf makes it really, really easy to get to them. Just another perk that having this kind of wall shelf provides. In this case, I have simply taken the wood shelf that the tt sits on out so I can work on it. The shelf looks identical to the one to the right of the tt that the reel-to-reel is sitting on, only deeper of course.....

PS - those brackets can be easily sourced from Lowes or Home Depot and I think I paid less than $20 for both. Then, some anchor bolts or find the wall studs (better, and what I did) and use 2 1/2 inch wood screws to secure them.
 
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another possible thought, if you have any plans on changing the arm, the auto lift will not work. no point in paying extra for a 145 if thats in the plans, assuming similar condition and all that.
 
Not to hijack your thread, but since we're here and others who have a TD160 (@gadget73 for instance) might know.....my armbase is right at 1/8 inch above the top plate of the turntable (see first picture). Does that seem about right? Or, does this vary with the settings of the springs to achieve proper bounce and is otherwise irrelevant? Thanks for indulging me and hopefully the OP can be enlightened about this as well should they wind up with the Thorens.....
 
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Sounds ballpark right. It will depend on the spring setting but a bit above the main deck is where they seem to fall.
 
Not to hijack your thread, but since we're here and others who have a TD160 (@gadget73 for instance) might know.....my armbase is right at 1/8 inch above the top plate of the turntable (see first picture). Does that seem about right? Or, does this vary with the settings of the springs to achieve proper bounce and is otherwise irrelevant? Thanks for indulging me and hopefully the OP can be enlightened about this as well should they wind up with the Thorens.....
That’s where mine sits.
 
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