In any case, up and running. Have to give it some time to settle in.
View attachment 1950594
Looks nice, can't wait to hear how it sounds.
In any case, up and running. Have to give it some time to settle in.
View attachment 1950594
Well, for some reason the store listing, (manual is photocopied and entirely in Chinese), says it can use EL34's 6L6's 5881's etc. I've never seen a situation where KT77's don't fall into that bunch.Good to hear you got them working and like the sound. What speakers are you using with the 805 amp?
I am not surprised by your KT77 experience. The KT77 has nearly twice the transconductance and much less plate resistance than a 5881. You would have to modify the circuit (component value changes) to get the best performance from a KT77.
Good to hear you got them working and like the sound. What speakers are you using with the 805 amp?
I am not surprised by your KT77 experience. The KT77 has nearly twice the transconductance and much less plate resistance than a 5881. You would have to modify the circuit (component value changes) to get the best performance from a KT77.
I still reckon you ought to buy one...and yes I agree totally black is a nice look for a valve amp would match my Sansuis..It looks far nicer totally black rather than with the silver front shown on their site. Fantastic that it sounds good too.... I'd still go with a resistor based attenuation but that's just me![]()
I'm assuming the driver tube (EL34, 5881, etc.) is used in triode mode. Having built a similar 845 amp with a triode-wired power tube as driver, it's pretty easy to substitute any of the common pentodes or beam tubes in that psition, with only minopr variations in bias/plate voltage. The only hitch is that an EL34 or KT77 is going to have more gain in triode connection than a 6L6 variant (11 as opposed to 8), so it will change the sensitivity of the amp. Just something to bear in mind in terms of the difference one might hear.
The 5881 is rigged as a cathode follower in this circuit. The gain is not going to exceed 1 in this case, though the EL34/KT77 will likely come closer than a 5881/6L6 variant. Something like .8 for a 5881 and .85 for a KT77 I would estimate.
cheers,
Douglas
If the 5881 is a cathode follower- I wonder if the problem with the KT77 might be related to the heater-cathode voltage. A cathode follower sometimes has the cathode a hundred or more volts over ground- if the heaters aren't also DC biased to a similar voltage, you may be getting heater-cathode leakage. That could explain the hum.
It may just be that the particular 5881s you have, are more resistant to heater-cathode leakage, than the KT77s...
Regards,
Gordon.
Gordon, check the schematic, the grid is the biasing element. As in the cathode is connected to the grid and nothing else. This puts the 805 tube well positively biased. The driver tube is no doubt having some difficulty telling it is not a standard cathode bias affair...grid of the driven tube instead of a resistor.
cheers,
Douglas
Man- that looks like an invitation for disaster, depending on the transconductance of whatever is plugged in as the cathode follower. There's literally nothing regulating what grid voltage, and more importantly- how much grid current is going into the 805.
That may be why the EL34/KT77 is having trouble, whereas the 5881/6L6 is not- the lower plate resistance and higher transconductance of the KT77, is probably allowing more grid current into the 805- which may be over-biasing it. I can't imagine how that could work consistently- the bias to the 805 is completely dependent on what tube is plugged into the cathode follower position, with no provision for bias adjustment back into an optimal range, should it not be there inherently.
EDIT: Looking at the schematic- one other issue with the KT77/EL34 type tube, is that it looks like pin 1 isn't connected to anything. That means the suppressor grid isn't connected to anything. It may be the "tetrode kink"- due to running the KT77 as a tetrode, with the suppressor grid disconnected- that's causing the issue with the sound- that would cause quite odd distortion, under some conditions...
Regards,
Gordon.
Quick question, just for those that are better reading schematics than I am;Out of curiosity i pulled the data sheet on this type
125w plate dissipation per tube, class b,
1500v b+
Building something that uses these tubes to their potential is going to cost thousands...
Excuse me while i check how many I own...
I just saw your post and I know its ancient but I have a pair of budelman 133a push pull 805's with altec outputs eager to gain knowledge so I can get these jewels up and runningAnd here is your chance to talk me out of it lol. But, in all honesty, I think I am committed. Either of these options would be upgraded before ever even being powered on. Coupling caps would be replaced for sure. The 300B would eventually get power and pre tubes replaced. But the monoblocks use a PCB design, while the 805A uses P2P wiring. The 5881A tubes in the 805 would be replaced with KT77's. I know these are both budget Chinese amps, but I've had pretty good luck so far. Of course, I understand that there are some who wouldn't give either of these amps a 2nd glance, mostly due to their origins.
https://hifi-exquis.com/en/tube-amp...805-lamp-amp.html?search_query=805A&results=2
https://hifi-exquis.com/en/300b-2a3...eo-2-pieces.html?search_query=300B&results=55