I know these STKs are no longer available. Anyone have a reputable source for either NOS or a redesigned pcb that's prefabbed as a replacement? Not really up to experimenting with a chinese replacement. Hate to have to use this amp as a boat anchor rather than as a power amp or monoblock. Thanks in advance... Keith
Any good sources on replacement for STK 3102 iii for a Sony TAN55ES?
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Which stk is it? There are alternatives for some
See the title.
Have you used parts from this seller before?
In the title: 3102iii. Any info gladly accepted.
The reason I asked is because way too many of these parts sold on feebay are counterfeit junk.
Yes, aware of the counterfeit/junk issues. Of course, can always try if returns are allowed. But that's why I made this post. I know that someone had created a discrete component alternative for STK 0050 in my searching, but haven't seen anything for this version. Hoping a forum member might have a suggestion. Kind regards, Keith
KentTeffeteller
Gimpus Stereophilus!
Donor units whenever you can find one with a good STK. Or the previous poster's solution!
Not always. I bought one from a donor unit that didn't work.
But it is one of the options things I look at.
Yes indeed they work well. I’ve built three of them and they’re great. Ignore the through hole resistors, I was out of the SMD parts and just haven’t fixed it as I haven’t needed another yet.
I ordered special boards as they’re the thicker aluminum substrate available for heat sinking purposes. Others have had success with regular FR4, but one of mine was attached to the rear panel of the amp for heat sinking and so I thought I should get the aluminum to help in that.
I would definitely go this route over buying one and hoping that it is authentic. This board built with discrete components is going to be superior to the original anyway. If you’d like to go this route I’m sure it would be much less expensive to have someone with the parts make you one (me or anyone willing to offer) than it would be to order up a set of boards and all the parts individually if you only need one or two.
Dan
Well, if the price was anywhere near reasonable, I'd be happy to pay someone for a couple of these. Let me know what you think it might work out to or who else might be willing? Do you try to mount a heat sink to the rear?
If the current chip doesn’t have a heat sink, then it’s likely you won’t need one. I recently replaced in a Crest Vs900 power amplifier, and it was mounted to a heat sink, so I mounted this one to a heat sink. I would just basically copy whatever you have in there originally. Regardless, having the aluminum substrate will help with heat versus the standard FR4.
Dan
As far as taking a chance on the parts sold on ebay, I've had about a 50/50 run with one seller I use when ceitron doesn't have what I need. They offer refunds so I get my money back. Just got finished putting one in a receiver and the dim bulb stayed bright. Pulled the part and pins 5,6,7&8 were shorted together.
I know the receiver is good otherwise since I put diodes on pins 1&3, 8&0 to test it and the DBT dimmed nicely.
I'll get a refund but it wastes my time.
I know the receiver is good otherwise since I put diodes on pins 1&3, 8&0 to test it and the DBT dimmed nicely.
I'll get a refund but it wastes my time.
Hey Keith,
You can have the one I posted, but I think you want me to test it first on a test jig that I would need to make up.
If you are able to solder them then you can order the blanks and get the parts at Mouser or Digikey. I have a shopping cart link I could send you.
Rick
You can have the one I posted, but I think you want me to test it first on a test jig that I would need to make up.
If you are able to solder them then you can order the blanks and get the parts at Mouser or Digikey. I have a shopping cart link I could send you.
Rick
Hi Joe,
I just so happened to see this post, I was not watching it. so getting no email or other notifications, probably should have PM'ed me to be sure I got your request but nonetheless here you go.
I used 15 mil solder but you can stretch the thicker stuff to make it easier to use. Tin one pad, place with tweezers, re-heat tinned pad press down with finger nail to flatten, finish soldering, you know the drill
954-S-202T I was going to try in replacement of R11/R31, watch the polarity
Good Luck, let us know how you make out, I'll follow the thread now
I just so happened to see this post, I was not watching it. so getting no email or other notifications, probably should have PM'ed me to be sure I got your request but nonetheless here you go.
I used 15 mil solder but you can stretch the thicker stuff to make it easier to use. Tin one pad, place with tweezers, re-heat tinned pad press down with finger nail to flatten, finish soldering, you know the drill
954-S-202T I was going to try in replacement of R11/R31, watch the polarity
Good Luck, let us know how you make out, I'll follow the thread now