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Any Soundcraftsmen owners in here?

I will also give you a tip on servicing those amps. It is easiest to limit the power while testing by soldering an alligator jumper lead to each contact of a 60W light bulb. Then connect it in series to the power board to large transformer connection. It is the lowest 1/4" spade terminal. I also use it across the power switch or an open fuse holder in other equipment. People talk alot about a variac and things, but that inexpensive method works best for me. Also, make sure the terminal pins are good and clean where the driver and output boards connect. I often push around on the board while monitoring bias voltage. It should not change when pushed on, but often do. You may even have to re-tin the solder layer on the pins.
 
Hughes Aircraft was a fantastic company. Was heaven on earth for engineers before we were sold to GM.
en.wikipedia.org

Hughes Aircraft Company - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org


On the amp - I see from your email that I can use MJ21193/MJ21194 for the outputs.
Can I keep the old transistors and put in a single output?
Or replace them all. I think I know the answer....
 
You can swap just one. Although sometimes another may have been weakened from absorbing the short, and go out later. It's up to you on how fresh you want it. The RA series has a better chance for the rest being good, than the A5002 with less output devices
 
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Racingh11 said:
I will also give you a tip on servicing those amps. It is easiest to limit the power while testing by soldering an alligator jumper lead to each contact of a 60W light bulb. Then connect it in series to the power board to large transformer connection. It is the lowest 1/4" spade terminal. I also use it across the power switch or an open fuse holder in other equipment. People talk alot about a variac and things, but that inexpensive method works best for me. Also, make sure the terminal pins are good and clean where the driver and output boards connect. I often push around on the board while monitoring bias voltage. It should not change when pushed on, but often do. You may even have to re-tin the solder layer on the pins.
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Good suggestion. I usually use a dim bulb tester on the AC line power but the soundcraftsmen protection circuit will often go into protect on the dim bulb, and then work AOK with the dim bulb bypassed.
 
BMWCCA said:
Well, at least it's better than those white Adcoms where the knobs turned yellow. I'll stick with the graphite paint on my Pro-Power-Fours, as bad as Soundcraftsmen's paint was!
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Yeah, the paint didn't do well with moisture. I repaint a lot of covers for rust and bubbles under the paint.
 
I just picked up a Soundcraftsmen stand-alone preamp to finish off a SC system of total separates. It should be a nice combination; I have the rare tuner also.

20250309_124823.jpg20250309_124846.jpg20250309_124917.jpg
 
Racingh11 said:
Photos of the super rare PRO Control 422. Photos are poor, they are from a previous camera.
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I have a Pro Control 422 also. Bought in the box unused in 2005, used time to time. Sliders work perfect, just had a service done....might be on the block for sale shortly. Its like new all the way around. Picked up a perfect EQ44 years ago from Canuckmart for $100. Always wanted when it came out but it was all out of my price range at the time.
 

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DyHappy said:
I have a Pro Control 422 also. Bought in the box unused in 2005, used time to time. Sliders work perfect, just had a service done....might be on the block for sale shortly. Its like new all the way around. Picked up a perfect EQ44 years ago from Canuckmart for $100. Always wanted when it came out but it was all out of my price range at the time.
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Awesome I will keep an eye out for it.
 
PabloTincho said:
Looking for rubber feet that will damp the vibrations from the fan, any recommendations ?
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Is there an issue with vibration? I have been using 3M Bumpon feet that are a little taller than stock, so the equipment can be stacked without the faceplates touching.
 
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