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Any Strobe recommendations/experience for turntable speed test

Old Guy8

Cliff & Cleo
Subscriber
I'm in the USA where 60 cycles is service norm.

For turntables without strobe built in.
I located a low priced unit on Ebay. Little Bear D66 Stroboscopic Speed Strobe. Specifies for 50 or 60 cycles.

There are other some other units that only specify 50 cycles. With nothing mentioned about 60 cycles.

Like to stay under $50.

Edit: Solved. Thanks for help.
 
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I'm in the USA where 60 cycles is service norm.

For turntables without strobe built in.
I located a low priced unit on Ebay. Little Bear D66 Stroboscopic Speed Strobe. Specifies for 50 or 60 cycles.

There are other some other units that only specify 50 cycles. With nothing mentioned about 60 cycles.

Like to stay under $50.

PM sent.
 
To clarify what I think I need. A strobe light that will pulse at 60 cycles. I have a cardstock printed disc.

Maybe the strobes that only specify 50 cycles would also pulse for 60 cycles, LP 33 1/3 rpm records. But not knowing don't think I'll chance unless someone knows they do.
 
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To clarify what I think I need. A strobe light that will pulse at 60 cycles. I have a cardstock printed disc.

Maybe the strobes that only specify 50 cycles would also pulse at 60 cycles. But not knowing don't think I'll chance unless someone knows they do.

The least expensive option would be an incandescent night light. Use an extension cord and bring it up close to the strobe disc pattern (best if room is dim).




If you're willing to spend more than your stated $50 you can get the KAB Speedstrobe which is very accurate, allows you to calculate speed deviation and comes with it's own light.

https://www.kabusa.com/frameset.htm?/strobe.htm
 
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Fluorescent lamps pulse as do neon lamps.

If you can DIY, a 50¢ neon bulb with the correct 10¢ (bought one at a time) can be made into a lamp.
I used a left over Thorens power cord (keeping it in the TT family) a plastic sample tube from Home Depot when they had the stands for water samples and those two components and some hot glue to hold it together.

Works Great.
 
Try an incandescent night light.
I'll see
^^^^^^^^^^^^^could be a learning experience for someone, perhaps?
Your right it was. Never too old to learn. I printed a dot circle years ago and didn't have it work for me. Guess I had the old auto timing lights imprinted in my brain, and thought I needed a special circuit.
Better with mechanical.

Thanks for posts. Strobe night light working. Also my fluorescent trouble light works.

Linn could use a slight adjustment at capstan.
 
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I use my old (at one time state-of-the-art) fluorescent automotive trouble light. Works great.
Of little interest to anyone is that I still have my 1970's timing light. Haven't used it since I sold my MGB several years ago.
Looks good in my tool rollabout drawer.....
 
Get a cheap LED nite-lite from the dollar type store (or Target, Walmart, etc.). It works great and will be much brighter and easier to see than an incandescent bulb. Just plug it into an extension cord and you are good to go. The total will be way under your $50 limit-more like $6 total.
Rick
 
Get a cheap LED nite-lite from the dollar type store (or Target, Walmart, etc.). It works great and will be much brighter and easier to see than an incandescent bulb. Just plug it into an extension cord and you are good to go. The total will be way under your $50 limit-more like $6 total.
Rick

This works. I even tried one on a Technics SL1100 which has the socket for the plug in strobe. Aside from the angle being off it was fine.
 
Fluorescent lamps pulse as do neon lamps.

If you can DIY, a 50¢ neon bulb with the correct 10¢ (bought one at a time) can be made into a lamp.

Fluorescent lamps only pulse at line frequency if their ballast is an actual transformer. The transistorized units do not work for a strobe.
 
Fluorescent lamps only pulse at line frequency if their ballast is an actual transformer. The transistorized units do not work for a strobe.
Yes that battery operated one I have doesn't work, but the kitchen light does. The black light we had back then worked, too.
 
Modern fluorescent lamps with electronic ballasts also won't work. Need an older one that hums. The push and hold to start or the kind with a starter are perfect.

Cheap LED lights work because they don't have proper drivers, its just a diode and a drop resistor straight across the power line so it flickers at mains frequency. Basically if it hurts your eyes to look at it, it'll work.

Neons also work. Lots of turntables with a built-in strobe were a small neon bulb with a drop resistor right across the power line. Simple as it gets.

Incandescent don't work as well since they have a cool down and warmup period. They don't flash on/off as distinctly as the other types will. It does work but the strobe lines tend to be less sharp looking.
 
Strobe.jpg
What I built from the Thorens ac cord, resistor, neon bulb and water sample vial. Hot glued in place. Keep the cap on it unless I'm using it, those neons are very fragile with side impacts.
 
unless its a Thorens with a factory belt. Those run on speed. For reasons beyond my comprehension that doesn't seem to be the case with any other belt.
 
unless its a Thorens with a factory belt. Those run on speed. For reasons beyond my comprehension that doesn't seem to be the case with any other belt.

Running a turntable slightly fast makes it sound subjectively better, and importantly ensures it is never slow, which always sounds bad. The British companies have been taking advantage of this fact for years.
 
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