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Anyone ever do a JBL N1200 DIY build? (Another 3-way JBL thread)

nickdinatale

Active Member
I'm working on putting together a 3-way JBL system in a pair of C34 cabinets that I'm close to finishing up. It would look something like: 130A, 175/2410, and 075. At the moment, I only have a single N1200 crossover and the prices for a second are leading me to consider just building my own and selling the single 1200 I have to pay for the parts. Wondering if anyone has done a N1200 build, or a full three way crossover for these components? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
 
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Hi Todd, thanks for this. Having some trouble figuring out which parts of the N1200 can be cut along with the two taps that I won't have from the 1.1mH. I'm assuming I won't need R2 and R3 any longer, but is there anything else that gets removed?
 
Hi Todd, thanks for this. Having some trouble figuring out which parts of the N1200 can be cut along with the two taps that I won't have from the 1.1mH. I'm assuming I won't need R2 and R3 any longer, but is there anything else that gets removed?

I would agree. I would also use a 16 ohm L-pad between the crossover and horn driver, wired in the typical fashion, to give you back the ability to control its volume.

BTW, when I used the N1200/N7000, 130A, 175/potato masher, 075, combo, I used a 16 ohm L-pad to adjust their volumes, with the switch circuit on the horn set to max volume, and it was so much nicer than just having the three options, none of which ever seemed correct.

BTW, the spectrum of the system resembled a "suspension bridge." I hope you have a good eq.
 
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I would agree. I would also use a 16 ohm L-pad between the crossover and horn driver, wired in the typical fashion, to give you back the ability to control its volume.

BTW, when I used the N1200/N7000, 130A, 175/potato masher, 075, combo, I used a 16 ohm L-pad to adjust their volumes, with the switch circuit on the horn set to max volume, and it was so much nicer than just having the three options, none of which ever seemed correct.

BTW, the spectrum of the system resembled a "suspension bridge." I hope you have a good eq.

I think the L-pad route will be the one I'm going, as I've seen a lot of other threads you've been involved in mentioning that with positive results. Thank you for the help in this department!

I have a pair of McIntosh C8 preamps, which have pretty decent EQ options for something from that time period. Are there any other ways to tackle the "suspension bridge" problem? For what it's worth, I'm not looking for floor-shaking bass. I've learned to get by while using an 030 load for the past year or two.
 
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