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Anyone familiar with sbc?

Not sure if anyone mentioned it above but that distributor body is turned way wrong. That vacuum advance should be pointing sort of at the second bolt from the rear there by #8 cylinder (yes, I know that's for coolant). Maybe it's just loose and got spun around.

But, yeah, just get an hei rotor, cap and coil and you should be good to go. Ditch that coil on the firewall.

Murray
 
Rochester also built 2 barrel carbs (didn't have a name) which were used on the SBC and other GM engines.

dualjet (they were not that creative name-wise)

take a little care when getting a q-jet (aka quadrajet aka rochester 4bbl). you want a modern roch 4bbl, so you want a '4M', NOT a '4G'

I assume you dont have a computer so do not get a 'E4Mx', get a M4Mx where X can be V, C or E, but dont get a M4ME, I think the easiest for you is a M4MC where the choke is a thermostatic spring in what looks like half a sphere on its side with a black plastic flat cover on the end.

the M4MV uses a divorced choke where the spring is contained in a pocket in the manifold over the exhaust riser/crossover. You are going to put a special plate over this pocket and run essentially a length of 1/4" brake/fuel line which you press in, to the bottom fitting of the choke - it provides the heat to open your choke! (its not hard at all and once you do one you will feel all ninja)

also, tell me what the EGR looks like on this manifold? this intake was used 78-85 on 305/350s and the egr is very needed to prevent detonation/pinging - you got little choice here.

so we are going to have to dream up a VECI equivalent here to route the various vacuums. be nice if we knew what the motor was out of...

the 78-85 305 was rated at 140-145hp and about 240-250ft but it can be built up. I yanked 304hp at 5200rpm (prop limited on purpose) in a boat with off the shelf cheapo parts

take a peek at the edelbrock intake...2701 is el cheapo but I think with EGR you need 2704...if I recall my numbers....go ask summit!

the engines 305/350, from that era stock had tiny valves, low compression, and barely any cam lift and the heads shrouded the intake to produce the swirl needed for emissions. so its not gonna scream.

37 inch tires over what were likely 26-28 inches (I think, you never said WHAT jeep it is, my answer is different CJ7 vs J10) so calculate the effective gear loss you will experience. read the rear axle tag to see what you are starting off with

ETA: on that carb, locate a body with a part number starting '170....' and not '70....', that means it was built 1976-on and is better calibrated emissions wise to the motor, not that you have any emissions, but stock vs stock, it will work better and be jetted correctly.
 
Im just going to buy a 600 cfm edelbrock carb and put it on there. Chances are the q jet needs to be rebuilt plus it looks like it's missing a few peices

As for the distributer. The reason its twisted so far forward is it's missing the bracket that holds it in place.

Made a missing parts list just on the engine/transmission.

Vacuum line for transmission
Throttle cable
1/2 Distributer
Oil filter bracket
Starter plus bolts
Shifter
Dipstick
Battery
V belts
Alt bracket
Steering pump bracket
Throttle cable bracket
Alot of hoses plus fittings

Then after that gotta track down most of the missing transfer case shift parts plus vacuum system for it.

To make things even more complicated it has some fancy electric fan setup.
 
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You still have not said what year/model of jeep vehicle and the answer differs, the alt bracket wont be hard - if there is still a junkyard around you just grab any one from an older truck. The PS pump bracket is a bit more insidious, assuming you are gonna use the saginaw pump, you have to take care on frame/steering box clearance depending on the jeep used. not rocket science, I have seen Gen1 SBCs in CJ5/7/jeepster/commando/wags/j-trucks so the brackets existed....you might do well to join a jeep forum and look at any section for SBC swaps to get the parts

you said 'oil filter bracket'...why? the Gen 1 SBC has the oil filter boss cast into the block...is it a clearance issue with frame, driveline or header that needed to move the filter elsewhere? if so, thats easy, ANY oil filter relocation kit for chevy works.

you are gong to need to re-time the dizzy.

get it to TDC on the firing stroke and re-install the dizzy, then if you stay stock hei pickup and advance, use 20* btdc, otherwise if you user ANY OTHER dizzy, use 6* BTDC
 
Best to stick to the OEM Quadrajet as you will have tuning issues to get it right.

A lot more difficult and more $ than getting the few pieces for the Quadrajet.

It will cost a lot more $ for the Edelbrock plus someone to tune it if you can't do it.

I'm talking about taking it apart to make jetting changes.

If your going to spend that kind of $ you may as well go to EFI (and get better MPG and engine life) either OEM GM parts (good used and new parts=cheaper) or a proven Holley system = more $ They have self tuning bolt on units to replace a carb or you can go to better port EFI for more $ You do have to do some tuning on the aftermarket ones and Holley will help.
 
Don't buy rebuilt starters as you will wish you didn't!

You can buy good new ones that will be trouble free and last for years.

Don't use just any bolts for the starter as you need to use the special start bolts sold (sure they cost a lot more, but they have special features to make them work properly)
for that purpose to avoid big troubles.
 
I'm missing all this egr stuff. The local auto wreckers have none of it. Most won't deal in 1980s / vintage parts as there isn't enough money in it I guess. Can the quadrajet br run temporarily with out the egr hookups?

Screenshot_20190425-120912_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Shouldn't need it unless trying to meet smog regs. Won't affect how the carb works without it but you just have to plug vacuum lines with golf tees etc.
 
That distributor that you have there appears to be an "Electronic Spark Control", or "ESC" version. There are 5 terminals on the module, yes? It's meant to work with an external spark control module and it's not going to work on it's own unless you jumper a couple of the wires in the 4 wire connector, or convert it to a 4 pin module setup. But honestly, by the time you buy a 4-pin module, harness, cap, rotor and so forth, you might as well just junk that thing and buy an aftermarket HEI distributor and be done with it. They aren't much money. Unless you are looking to start hopping things up a generic HEI will do the trick, Jegs, Speedway, heck even Amazon will sell you one for under $100 complete with cap, rotor and coil.
 
I'm missing all this egr stuff. The local auto wreckers have none of it. Most won't deal in 1980s / vintage parts as there isn't enough money in it I guess. Can the quadrajet br run temporarily with out the egr hookups?

View attachment 1491050
any egr valve that fits that intake will do as long as its not a transducer type. without egr, it WILL ping. cannot avoid it. the motor was just built that way..
 
You still have not said what year/model of jeep vehicle

Well in this photo he posted

20190424_120934.jpg

I see CJ fenders so it's before a Wrangler and probably a CJ7 so lets say 1984 or lower, it would be dumb having a 350 in a CJ5 with 37 and the lift needed for them. One would die on the freeway with the slightest bump in the road.
 
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@Audi0

Why don't we talk about building the Jeep for a practical purpose?
Like what's it's use going to be....

Is it going to be duel use on and off road, being able to drive a long distance to go hunting and then do quiet well off road. Is it going the be towed long distances ant then used off road only.

Are you wanting a rock crawler for extreme off road use going places most 4x4 can't.

Is it just mostly going to be used around town looking all cool and gnarly and a great summer ride around town.

I used to have a bad ass 84 CJ7, Dana 44 front, Dana 66 rear, air lockers, 432 gears 37" BFGs, York stand up air compressor, ford T18 trans with granny, AMC 4.2L. It was tricked out with many other things but that's the base of the drivetrain. I also had a 74 CJ5, that was some what all original that I did a little lift with 35" BFGs and changed out the low back seats with high back. It also had the 4.2L engine.
 
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Im just going to buy a 600 cfm edelbrock carb and put it on there. Chances are the q jet needs to be rebuilt plus it looks like it's missing a few pieces.
The Edelbrock is a square-bore carburetor and the Q-Jet is a spread-bore and will have corresponding holes on the manifold. You can use the E-brock, but take care to make sure the venturis line up with the manifold.
 
If you want a good off road jeep that you can trust, get rid of the v8 and build or buy the 4.2L amc. It will idle all day long, run in all kinds of weather doing it and get you back out of the woods and home.

With these lifted Jeep you don't need HP as that will kill you. In fact my 4.2L on a lifted CJ7 doing 65-70 on freeways was stupid enough. You kinda learn to drive it by the seat of your pants and a pray that when you fly over a bump that you'll land on your wheels.
 
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The jeep is going to be more of a *mall crawler* If that's what you call it. Plan is to drop it a foot. So smaller tires put on like 33s or 35s. The first thing to go is the 4 inch body lift. That's cheap nasty and really ruins handling. I do got a zone lift kit for 2 inches but its running custom shackles. So then I'm going to need new shocks.

So all in all it's coming down a bit so I dont have to pull myself into it.

Why I wanted a sbc is I own a yj and the 2.5L.Which is a good engine and reliable as can be. However it lacks power and when mixed with a non aerodynamic vehicle. Its sucks when your going down the highway. Just the air coming off the front of a semi is bad.
Then the nasty hills around here where it just struggles to climb them. Speed limit is 100kph here and if you dont have your foot to floor at the bottom of the hill good luck.

It's a 84 CJ
 
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Honestly the old 258 I6 was plenty enough. Jeeps are just not well suited for highway use and its got little to do with the engine. If the 2.5 struggles too much on hills, that sounds like something a gear change will fix, especially if it has larger than stock size tires on it.
 
That 305 is just about right for an '84 CJ.

Should give you plenty of driveable torque, if the motor's fresh enough.

I ran a 600cfm edlebrock carb on a quadrajet intake for years (360 Mopar) with a Transadapt brand adapter.

It ran excellent, with a slight decrease in peak horsepower compared to the Thermoquad. It was better at low rpm and mid range rpm, but the big secondaries won out at WOT.
 
Honestly the old 258 I6 was plenty enough. Jeeps are just not well suited for highway use and its got little to do with the engine.
Yep it's the suspension design that sucks at high speed, and even though you can revers the front shackles it only helps a little.

If the 2.5 struggles too much on hills, that sounds like something a gear change will fix, especially if it has larger than stock size tires on it.
Yes matching gears to the tires but also gears to the trans ratio.
 
The jeep is going to be more of a *mall crawler* If that's what you call it. Plan is to drop it a foot. So smaller tires put on like 33s or 35s.

Ok running stock size tires (32-33s) dropping the jeep to stock hight or a 1" lift. Rebuilding the suspension for more of a street use and setup for carrying a V8 weight you'll be fine...better. Later CJ 5&7 had factory V8s but when they left the factory everything was new and designed to work together to be safe...safer on the road. IIRC, they did have roll over problems even in stock form when people used the power at the wrong time.

That's why I asked about your plans for the use and build, it all has to be thought out to make a complete package. Jeeps are fun to work with and bop around in, but have a lot of limitations for all around driving. When built some things they will do really good at and completely fail in others, unfortunately thats just the way they are.

But we have many choices on how and what we want to build it for.
My CJ7 would go anywhere in the mountains, I would be able to crawl right over logging road blocks that where built to stop all 4x4s from going further. Once past all the road blocks I had miles and miles of clean dirt roads with no one else around. It was built Rubicon ready to drive where there was no roads and still get by on the street, but it totally sucked on the freeway but I was crazy then.
 
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