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Anyone Have A Onkyo M-506RS

Are you still using your M506rs? I just picked one up. What is the servo feature?
I see you just got your M-506RS recently; mine should be arriving this Wednesday; how do you like yours so far? I was looking into the servo feature too. You have to have an Onkyo preamp that supports this feature and a special cable to connect from the pre-amp to the power amp. There was a discussion at the link below about the servo feature and after reading it, I don't think it makes much of a difference.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...le-tech-minded-people-this-is-for-you.531793/
 
I can’t comment on a comparison between the 506 and a 504. The 506 I have is incredibly quiet. I have a matching preamp, but no cable. As far as I can tell the cable is BS. It seems to provide a separate ground for the signal.You can get amber LED’s. I don’t remember the name of the website, all they sold were LED’s.
 
I can’t comment on a comparison between the 506 and a 504. The 506 I have is incredibly quiet. I have a matching preamp, but no cable. As far as I can tell the cable is BS. It seems to provide a separate ground for the signal.You can get amber LED’s. I don’t remember the name of the website, all they sold were LED’s.
Thanks for the update, I already ordered some red ones I found on Ebay; they will be fine as they are only on for a few seconds, it doesn't matter to me if they are amber or red. I agree with you about the servo being BS otherwise Onkyo would still be using it. I don't have the matching preamp but I'm using a Denon AVP-8000 tuner-preamp which I like a lot and I didn't want to have to replace it just so I could use the servo feature.
 
I noticed a reference to the DC offset. My amp was given to me 12 years ago because it wasn't working. It sat on the garage until last month. I used to forums to find possible problems. The problem turned out to be the DC offset. The offset was high enough to trigger the protection circuitry. The service manual can be easily found and the adjustment procedure is in there. I adjusted mine and it's been working great!

Thanks Audio Karma members!
 
I noticed a reference to the DC offset. My amp was given to me 12 years ago because it wasn't working. It sat on the garage until last month. I used to forums to find possible problems. The problem turned out to be the DC offset. The offset was high enough to trigger the protection circuitry. The service manual can be easily found and the adjustment procedure is in there. I adjusted mine and it's been working great!

Thanks Audio Karma members!
My M-506RS is arriving tomorrow and I plan to check the DC offset voltage. Do you happen to remember which pots you used to adjust the DC offset voltage. I downloaded the service manual from hifiengine.com and all of the adjustments are on pages 5-7 but I couldn't find anything on how to adjust the DC offset voltage. It is a crime that you left that in the garage for 12 years but you got a great deal getting that for free.

https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/onkyo/m-506rs.shtml
 
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Here are photos I took to help me find the pots. The first has the test points, the other is of the pots. Each channel has a board. They are mirrored.
 

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ciaokatz

Go to the following link and read the post provided by EchoWars on DC offset.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5634

If the link did not work right go to the solid state forum and it is the second sticky post.

With that said, I have tried to adjust the offset on my 506 and am not sure I did it right. In fact I am not sure you can adjust DC offset on this type of amp. From what I have read some type of power amps use a circuitry that doesn't allow DC offset adj.

The service manual has idling current adj., Distortion adj, meter adj, meter zero adj, meter offset adj, and meter level adj but no DC offset adj.

I run my power amp settings no higher than 12:00. I am running some Speakelab WA6's and a pair of ADS L-520. To me the amp sound wonderful.

Not sure if you are familiar with cleaning the voluume, balance, selector, etc. pots and switches with De-Oxit. Do a search and you will find information on how this is done. Cleaning pots, etc. will fix a lot of problems in vintage gear and should be the first thing you do when having sound quality problems.

Do the simple stuff first - recheck you hookups, try a different set of speakers, recheck all the dial settings, etc.

BTW, the meter range only affects reading on the VU meters.

Good luck, if you find an owners manual post it on the digital documents section.

lifer70
I couldn't find anything in the M-506RS service manual about how to adjust the DC offset voltage either. You said you tried to adjust but wasn't sure if you did it right. So how did you do it and were you able to lower the DC offset voltage at the speaker terminals. Out of curiosity I also looked at the M-504 service manual and it doesn't have any thing about adjusting the DC offset voltage either.
If I can find it I’ll post a marked up schematic as well. I outlined each board on the schematic in a different color.

I really appreciate you taking the time to take all of those pictures for me; that is fantastic. In the one picture you showed me some test points; I assume those are for making the bias current adjustment and not for the DC offset adjustment as you just put your meter across the speaker output terminals and adjust the pots for zero dc voltage. So I'm not sure if those blue pots in your picture are for making the bias current adjustment or for adjusting the DC offset voltage . When mine arrives tomorrow I'll check the DC offset voltage and hopefully if it is OK then I'll go through the procedure to set the bias current and do that probably using those test points in your picture. Then I'll know which pots are for the bias current adjustment and then any remaining pots may be for the DC offset adjustment. But some amps don't have anyway to adjust the DC offset and since there wasn't any mention of how to do this in the service manual, I suspect that both the M-504 and M-506RS don't have any way to do this. I think what you may have been adjusting was the bias current which was then affecting the DC offset voltage. Let you know what I find out tomorrow once mine arrives.

I noticed a reference to the DC offset. My amp was given to me 12 years ago because it wasn't working. It sat on the garage until last month. I used to forums to find possible problems. The problem turned out to be the DC offset. The offset was high enough to trigger the protection circuitry. The service manual can be easily found and the adjustment procedure is in there. I adjusted mine and it's been working great!

Thanks Audio Karma members!
 
The service manual calls it "Idling Current Adjustment". I assumed it was the DC offset. I only checked the test points and brought them into spec. I never checked for a DC bias at the output. Sorry for the mix up.
 
The service manual calls it "Idling Current Adjustment". I assumed it was the DC offset. I only checked the test points and brought them into spec. I never checked for a DC bias at the output. Sorry for the mix up.

That makes sense, "idling Current Adjustment " is sometimes called "bias current adjustment". There doesn't seem to be any way to adjust the "DC offset" so I guess if it is way off (more than 50mV) you just have to find the bad component and replace it. Ideally if you take a voltmeter and put it across the + and - speaker output terminals you would like that to be zero. So what you actually did was adjust the bias current to proper spec and that fixed the problem with your receiver. You should also put your meter across the speaker output terminals and make sure the DC offset voltage is not more than 50mV.
 
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There is a good discussion here about DC offset voltage you should read:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/amplifier-distortion-dc-offset-and-you.5634/
He says if you put your meter across the speaker ouput terminals and read:
0 to 15mV that is damn good
16 to 50mV acceptable
50 to 85mV something is certainly amiss
100mV to ? A high enough voltage will cause the DC protection to kick in.
So as long as it is under 50mV we should be OK.
Have you taken a voltmeter and checked yours yet?
Thanks again for posting those pictures that will be very helpful when I do the bias current adjustment.
 
The service manual calls it "Idling Current Adjustment". I assumed it was the DC offset. I only checked the test points and brought them into spec. I never checked for a DC bias at the output. Sorry for the mix up.

Well I'm bummed out, the Onkyo M-508RS arrived today and it's not working and I had to send it back for a refund so I'm out the $56 it cost me to mail it back by UPS ground; lucky for me the seller only lives 365 miles from me or it would have cost me a lot more. When I powered it up it, the meter lights turned amber then green but the servo light didn't come on. I double checked to make sure that both speakers buttons were depressed and that the level controls were turned up and feed it a signal from my CD player but I wasn't getting any sound at all from my speakers. Also the meters weren't moving at all. I decided to try the headphones jack and then I could here the right channel but not the left. It may have been a blessing in disguise as the side panels were in pretty bad shape and I'd rather have a M-504 anyway. I just like the looks of the M-504 better as it seems to have larger more attractive meters. I found a nice M-504 on Craig's List that is in much better condition with really nice looking side panels. The seller wouldn't sell it by it's self so I had to buy the P-304 pre-amp also; got both for $750. I'm going over tomorrow morning to pick it up.
 
If I can find it I’ll post a marked up schematic as well. I outlined each board on the schematic in a different color.
I picked up the Onkyo P-304 and M-504 today for $750 and I'm really happy they both are in excellent condition and sound really great. The only Problem is the left RCA output jack on the P-304 is missing the outer metal ground around the plastic connector housing. My cable still plugs in securely around the plastic that is left. I haven't noticed and hum or any effect on how it sounds [Mod Edit] Pomona 1825-0.jpg Pomona 1825-2.jpg The weird thing about the M-504 is that when I plugged in my banana jack speaker plugs I wasn't getting any sound from my speakers but when I removed the banana plugs and just used the speaker wire and screwed the terminal down tight then the speaker worked fine. It seems the M-504 has really deep plastic receptacles or slightly larger than normal as my 4mm banana plugs were loose fitting and I had to bend them out a little to make them fig snugly so maybe that is the reason they are not making contact. It seems I need to find a banana plug that is slightly larger and maybe longer as well, as mine aren't making contact with metal only plastic. So I'm going to have to find some longer and larger ones that will work on the M-504. This is very odd because of been Pomona 1825-2 and Pomona 1825-0 banana plugs for over 40 years and they have worked on every speaker and amplifier I have ever had except for the Onkyo M-504. I can buy the Pomona banana jacks at my local Fry's Electronics in a 2-pack for $5.19; they are very study so it's a shame they won't work with the Onkyo M-504. Are there 6mm banana plugs? I'm thinking a 6mm plug might work with the M-504.
 
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Is it just me or does Onkyo Customer service seem a little rude? I called them and asked if they had any side panels for a Onkyo M-506RS; I was pretty sure they wouldn't but figured it wouldn't hurt to call anyway. So after he tells me they don't have any, I ask him if he knew if the M-506RS and the M-504 used the same size side panels and if they were interchangeable? After telling me that he doesn't know he tells me that if I don't use the original side panels that it will make my amplifier overheat. I basically tell him he doesn't know what he is talking about as most of the heat is released through the vents in the top cover. And the panels for a M-504 and M-506RS are going to be made of similar material and thickness so it won't make any difference. But he won't back down and sticks to his guns that not using the original side panels will cause the M-504 or M-506RS to overheat. I finally gave up arguing with him and hung up. The good news is I sent back the M-506RS as it didn't work so I no longer needed them and the M-504 that I just bought has excellent side panels with nary a scratch to be seen anywhere. If anyone has a suggestion on a banana plug that will work with the M-504 that doesn't cost more than $5 let me know. I think I'll look for a 6mm banana plug; I think that might work as the 4mm banana plugs are to small and are loose. Couldn't find any 6mm banana plugs. Am I the only one who has a M-504 where a 4mm banana plug fits so loose you can actually feel it rattling around. I though I'd be clever and just bend it out to a larger size but that didn't work either as I wouldn't get any sound from the speakers. I guess I'll just have to use bare wire for now. What possessed Onkyo to use such a non standard size for the banana plug receptacles?
 
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Are you still using your M506rs? I just picked one up. What is the servo feature?
mron The Onkyo M-506RS that I bought on Ebay arrived damaged and I had to return it. I ended up buying a M-504 on Craig's List and I like it; I just wish it had the level controls and meter range switch like the M-506RS has. I also found out the M-504 uses eight four pin 9,000uf capictors in the power supply which aren't sold any more which means you have to use two pin capacitors and modify the circuit board to make them work. Do you know if the four 22,000uf capacitors in the M-506RS are also of the four pin design?

Thanks,
Bill
 
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