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Anyone here using a Micro-Trak 303 tonearm?

MisterDK

Addicted Member
Please tell me about these arms. I know they look a little crude - but how well do they work? Also, does the silicone grease (or oil) anti-skate damping work OK on ‘em? Are there ways of improving these “industrial” arms for better sound quality?
Thanks.
 
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I own one Gray MicroTrak 303, but have yet to set it up. Typically found on broadcast turntables, I don't think they're anything special, and as long as the bearings feel free in both vertical and horizantal directions, you're good. I was unaware until I read the manual just now that they had any Anti-Skate features, and will have to check with a broadcast engineer friend as to what the composition of that oil might have been.

The best thing you can do is buy something more advanced if you want more advanced features or finer bearings. Otherwise, stick a Stanton with an original elliptical stylus on the end of it and enjoy the sound of radio from 1972.
 
I own one Gray MicroTrak 303, but have yet to set it up. Typically found on broadcast turntables, I don't think they're anything special, and as long as the bearings feel free in both vertical and horizantal directions, you're good. I was unaware until I read the manual just now that they had any Anti-Skate features, and will have to check with a broadcast engineer friend as to what the composition of that oil might have been.

The best thing you can do is buy something more advanced if you want more advanced features or finer bearings. Otherwise, stick a Stanton with an original elliptical stylus on the end of it and enjoy the sound of radio from 1972.

Wondering about those bearings. With these being made for relatively extreme use - shouldn’t the bearings be of good quality?
After all, if you take a look at the stock AR XA arms (no offense, AR guys), they’re relatively cheesy with needles screwed into Delrin tubes - yet they can sound most excellent. These 303’s, supposedly have sapphire vertical bearings (and probably made to last forever, too).

3A7DFB4F-9026-45E8-A253-F56C5BEEE421.jpeg
 
Wondering about those bearings. With these being made for relatively extreme use - shouldn’t the bearings be of good quality?
After all, if you take a look at the stock AR XA arms (no offense, AR guys), they’re relatively cheesy with needles screwed into Delrin tubes - yet they can sound most excellent. These 303’s, supposedly have sapphire vertical bearings (and probably made to last forever, too).

View attachment 2622338


I think a lot of it has to do with the life these arms led before falling into our hands in the 21st century. But, as long as the bearings aren’t binding, I wouldn’t worry about it.

You’ll have to show me a good sounding AR table time time….I’ve yet to hear one.
 
..You’ll have to show me a good sounding AR table time time….I’ve yet to hear one.

Different “good sound” than powerful DD or idler tables, that’s for sure. No rumble though, but with very good “air” and detail - even with an original tonearm (especially once modified). My old AR sounds pretty nice to me - but it really does lack the “PRaT”, or bass punch of higher torque tables. AR’s just don’t have great platter mass or strong motors.

Anyway, back to that 303 arm. I’m trying to dig up info about them, mainly because I just bought a pair of ‘em, supposedly NOS - unused. If truly NOS, bearings should be good. Was planning on using one for a DIY table project and the other on an Empire 208 table which is needing an arm. Cost is the main reason for not choosing a more exotic arm for those.
 
I have one that I bought years ago for a project that I never actually used. Sort of an interesting design. The counterweight is not supposed to be adjusted. They come with brass shims that stack under the headshell. The idea is you can set up multiple shell / cart combos and just add weight as needed to get the tracking force correct. Lets you swap the headshell and go, no need to futz with the setup. Of course that also means you can significantly reduce the effective mass by skipping the brass plates and moving the counterweight inboard if needed.

they sure do look nice though.
 
It’s amazing that for as many of these that were in daily use years ago, there isn’t more info available about them online. They look like an arm that has good potential for modification, and I think, should sound good as well. I may have a different opinion of ‘em when actually in my hand.. The counterweight was fixed in place so the DJ couldn’t mess with it - but it can easily be removed and the more typical, adjustable style put on. I have the brass stock, and my little lathe is fun to play with. I’m sure I can come up with an effective anti-skate for it as well - maybe similar to that on my Audiomods 6 arm. No doubt I can make up a simple adapter plate for the headshell, too, so that cart alignment would be easy.

Anyway, thought I’d post up this:

AE773B01-DEE0-4C16-B742-C3C289218C55.jpeg
 
Its not fixed in place exactly, its got a small set screw that can be loosened to move it, or for home use I would probably swap it for a thumbscrew or something.
 
Its not fixed in place exactly, its got a small set screw that can be loosened to move it, or for home use I would probably swap it for a thumbscrew or something.

Good idea on the thumbscrew; that way it would retain the original counterweight’s unique look.
 
Fluid antiskating - I assume that is simply damping, which may be all you need.
 
Fluid antiskating - I assume that is simply damping, which may be all you need.
That’s all it was. There a guy in Ukraine who makes and sells a new, horizontal bearing pillar for these arms and it’s intended to be filled with silicone oil for damping. He also makes a nice cuing attachment for these arms.
https://www.karmadon.net/shop/pillar-for-tonearm-micro-trak-303-306/

The original bearing pillar has a hole for filling but not threaded end caps. It looks much harder to clean out the original.
 
That’s all it was. There a guy in Ukraine who makes and sells a new, horizontal bearing pillar for these arms and it’s intended to be filled with silicone oil for damping. He also makes a nice cuing attachment for these arms.
https://www.karmadon.net/shop/pillar-for-tonearm-micro-trak-303-306/

The original bearing pillar has a hole for filling but not threaded end caps. It looks much harder to clean out the original.

I am not familiar with his pillars for the MicroTrak, but I can vouch for the outstanding quality of his work. He also makes very good clones of Gray tonearms, and a couple of tonearms of his own design based on the same principle.
 
I am not familiar with his pillars for the MicroTrak, but I can vouch for the outstanding quality of his work. He also makes very good clones of Gray tonearms, and a couple of tonearms of his own design based on the same principle.

I’ll also sing his praises, have one of Serg’s Gray 108 clones and it’s a fantastic example of quality workmanship, and a very fine arm:trebon:

VR
Andy
 
One is missing the horizontal bearing pillar, mounting base and rest but they really do look NOS. Complete with their papers and warranty cards. These have consecutive serial #s, too. Should be fun to play with, I think.

59947CA1-80B2-4F1F-AC3A-21931563E976.jpeg
 
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