Greetings
Putting the AU101 on the table:
An AU101 can sound a bit more like the AU111 if the bass is set to 9 and treble set to 3 on the clock, and the magic apparently comes in with the loudness "on" which produces Presence (at these settings mentioned, not really loudness.. try it!) which the AU111 has a switch for. Small (!) tweaks on the bass (like 1mm- 2mm max at most to the right or left from its 9'o'clock position) sets a 3D stage (that the AU111 is known for) that either pushes the bass into the background a bit more or brings it closer to the foreground...note its really tiny movements that get into the sweet spot..you need to really listen to hear it and believe what that does. Lifting the volume a bit (to about 4.5 on the scale) brings the vocals forward. Play around near there, but really listen to what its doing, those tiny tweaks on the bass is where its at. The music used for this experiment was Diana Krall and some Oscar Peterson (Live at the Salle Pleyel).
This AU101 is standard,
not recapped, pots cleaned etc. (version with the bias pots and Nichicon gold print coupling capacitors) has oodles of low bass (I matched it to a rear vented (Eltax HT fronts) bass reflex enclosure which is important for getting some of that 3d presence /mids from the back of the speakers (vent) to mimic that backstage presence of the AU111).
A Nugget for what its worth.. if any..
The speaker fuses measured at 0.4 Ohms at best and at worst 0.9 Ohms. After polishing the contacts and its holders it was at 0.1 Ohm consistent. Considering that the bias mA runs across here, maybe it was a good thing to do..noticeable or not I don't know but it has to be doing something better at a small signal level.. again..for what its worth.. fuses are highly debatable and its own can of worms.. don't blow your fuse on me here...
Electrolytic Coupling Capacitors:
The original AU101 couplers leakage tested surprisingly well and healthy at its max voltage, and they have a sonic signature (warmth in bass and mids) I cannot seem to replicate with a replacement capacitor for one main reason I think is that these 1000uF vintage caps had a looser tolerance and measured at 1250uF. I found replacement caps to be tighter tolerance and measure below rated (about 930uF) even after a few hours at full voltage (yeah, maybe their sonics will sweeten with time). Finding a single 1200/1300uF capacitor as a closest value may be something to look into if those caps test bad, but im keeping these (tested at 25uA leakage after abt 15min at 34 Volts which is really good - its well within the calculated 425uA according to the leakage formula. Vloss and ESR tested great repeatedly before and after full voltage and leakage assessments).
Going with a 2200uF coupler here may be too bassy (experienced that on a Sansui SS210 going from a 1000uF to a 2200uF, but will try it here anyway just to test).
A much larger coupling capacitor improves the low end but comes at the expense of losing somewhere else (it tends to flood over everything else and hide other mid details) in the case of trying to mimic the Au111 with the AU101. Theres no need for larger caps because the AU101 has lovely low bass already and seems to be a good candidate for achieving a closer-ness to the AU111 signature.
Voltage Selector setting and Biasing:
Important to note that this AU101 is set to 240V (voltage selector), with measured line voltage at 226V (at the time), its been biased at 11mA with enough headroom on the bias to step with an increasing supply voltage up to 240V. (Line is usually high at 238V here). I found the amplifier biased at 32mA without consideration for a changing line voltage, was too hot and had some cross over distortion. Mids seemed a bit compressed. (I used a top down bias approach (240V setting) rather than a bottom up approach (220V setting, however will experiment with the 220V perspective as that will result in a higher B+ when line is higher than 220V, but with a suitable bias setting / headroom as line steps up - should have more voltage headroom - a good thing if the circuit/ component ratings can handle it - I think. This is possibly a reason why bias has a range from 10mA - 20mA here - to accomodate a changing line voltage. Dont just bias to 20mA without taking the above into consideration. A variac was used to set the voltage/bias setting range to accomodate the possible voltage range (can share those settings if anyone needs that and doesnt have a variac, however you need to measure your line voltage as a reference for the mA bias settings). - Interesting is that the B+ is unregulated just like the AU111, governed by the line voltage - hence biasing appropriately is important.
Main Smoothing Capacitor:
The original Nichicon gold print 1000uF 50V. I don't see a need to change it with a higher uF, its performing fine for the requirements of this experiment, however a fresh 2200uF may be a test here.
Film Bypass Capacitors:
I will look at bypassing the original couplers with a film cap to bring the richness of the mids up a bit (hopefully to sound a bit more like the AU111) and to improve the top end (which the AU111 has more of) and the speed without causing any noticeable phase shift while also reducing the total ESR - but still to experiment there - the original couplers do sound rolled off a bit even though that may be a characteristic to expect from a cap-coupled amplifier compared to a directly coupled type.
Building the bypass - this could also be where the magic is. Considering building an external bypass switch box with different bypass capacitor values, rotary switchable. Different capacitors will have a different signature at different volumes and other settings mentioned above - easy enough to do on this amplifier. - some high value discharge resistors to ground for the unswitched bypass caps maybe - still to ponder on any issues around this.
With all this, the effort is not implying that the AU101 is going to match the AU111 exactly, or give one the same satisfaction, but more so being closer to it, with a sonic comparison, not an electrical or topology comparison... you will still want an AU111 !
Thanks,
Marantz1234